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THE 
UNITED STATES OF AMERICA 

THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

One Hundred Outlooks From Successive 
Positions in Different Parts 
of the World's Great- 
est Republic 



" And for your country, boy, and for that flag, 
never dream a dream but of serving her as she 
bids you. Remember that behind all these men 
you have to do with, behind officers and govern- 
ment and people even, there is the country her- 
self, your country, and that you belong to her as 
you belong to your own mother. Stand by her, 
boy, as you would stand by your mother '* 

Edward Everett Hale 



UNDERWOOD & UNDERWOOD 


New York 


London 




Ottawa, Kansas 


Toronto, 


Canada 



, 



COPYRIGHT. 

By UNDERWOOD & UNDERWOOD 

New York and London 

(entered at stationers' hall) 



All stereographs copyrighted 



MAP SYSTEM 

Patented in the United States, Aug. 21, 1900 
Patented in Great Britain, March 22, 1900 
Patented in France, March 26, 1900. S.G.D.G. 
Switzerland, Patent 21,211 



All rights reserved 



Printed in the United States 



^CU 286 90 9 




CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Introduction 9 

How to Use the Stereograph System . . 14 



ITINERARY. 

1 Washington Monument (555 ft. high), from 

northwest Washington, D. C 16 

2 From Washington Monument over White House 

and Treasury 18 

3 From Washington Monument east to Capitol and 

Library, Washington, D. C 19 

4 Pennsylvania Avenue from the Treasury to the 

Capitol, Washington, D. C 20 

5 United States Capitol (east front) Washington, 

D. C 21 

6 A joint session of the Senate and House of Rep- 

resentatives, Washington, D. C. . . .22 

7 The magnificent Congressional Library, E. from 

the Capitol, Washington, D. C 24 

8 Grand staircase in the Congressional Library, 

Washington, D. C 25 

9 The White House, historic home of the Nation's 

Chief, Washington, D. C 26 

10 The East Room where receptions are held, White 

House, Washington, D. C 27 

11 The President at his desk, Executive Office, 

Washington, D. C 28 

12 Diplomatic room in State Dept, where confer- 

ences are held, Washington, D. C. . . .29 

13 General Robert E. Lee's old home at Arlington, 

Va 31 

14 Home of Washington, Mount Vernon, Va. . . 32 

15 U. S. battleships steaming out to sea from Hamp- 

ton Roads, Va 33 

16 One of Nature's curiosities, the Natural Bridge, 

Va 34 



4 CONTENTS 

PAGE 

17 In the southern pine woods, collecting crude tur- 

pentine, North Carolina 36 

18 A rice-raft with plantation hands, near George- 

town, South Carolina 37 

19 Where the Civil War began — Fort Sumter in 

Charleston Harbor, S. C 38 

20 In a great spinning room (104,000 spindles), Co- 

lumbia, S. C 40 

21 Cotton is king — plantation scene, with pickers at 

work, Ga 41 

22 In old St. George street, north to Spanish City 

gate, St. Augustine, Fla 43 

23 Automobiles on the world's finest race-track, 

Ormond-Daytona beach, Fla 44 

24 "And the palm tree nodded to the mirror in the 

jungle." Ormond, Fla. 45 

25 Cocoanut trees in the white sands at Palm 

Beach, Fla. 46 

26 The sweetest spot on earth — sugar levee beside 

Mississippi, New Orleans, La 47 

27 Confederate signal station, Lookout Mountain, 

Chattanooga, Tenn 48 

28 Street scene (Broadway, north from Chestnut 

St.). St. Louis, Mo 49 

29 $10,000,000 bridge, 2,500 ft. long, west over Mis- 

sissippi, St. Louis, Mo. . ... . .51 

30 Among the 30,000 cattle at Sierra Bonita Ranch, 

— roping a yearling, Ariz. . . . .53 

31 At breakfast — typical desert home of Navajo In- 

dians, Ariz 55 

32 South to picturesque Wolpi, a mesa village of 

Hopi Indians, Ariz 58 

33 The Katchina dance to the rain-gods — Hopi In- 

dians at Shonghopavi, Ariz 60 

34 Fathoming depths of a vanished river — Grand 

Canyon from Hance's Cove, Ariz. . . .62 

35 Beside the Colorado, looking east up to Zoroaster 

Tower, Grand Canyon, Ariz 63 

36 Picking oranges in one of the famous groves at 

Riverside, Cal 65 

37 Redlands and its wealth of orange groves from 

Smiley Heights, Cal. 67 

38 A pleasant retreat from the world— Santa Bar- 

bara Mission gardens, Cal 68 

39 A monster Sequoia just felled in grove at Con- 

verse Basin, Cal 69 



CONTENTS 5 

PAGE 

40 Wawona as we drove through it, — tree 275 ft. 

tall in Mariposa Grove, Cal 71 

41 El Capitan, a granite cliff 3,300 ft. high, Yo- 

seinite Valley, Cal 72 

42 Yoseinite Falls, from Glacier Point trail, high 

above Yoseinite Valley, Cal 73 

43 Nearly a mile straight down and only a step, 

Glacier Point, Yosemite, Cal 74 

44 Amid majestic heights and chasms of Yosemite 

Valley, Cal 76 

45 Cliff House and Seal Rocks from the sea-beach, 

San Francisco, Cal 77 

40 Paradise of the sea-gulls — east across San Fran- 
cisco bay to Oakland, Cal 79 

47 Looking through summer-clad boughs to grand, 

snow-capped Mt. Shasta, Cal. . . .81 

48 Picturesque grandeur of Columbia River, west 

past "Pillars of Hercules" . . . .82 

49 Stupendous log-craft containing milions of feet of 

timber, Columbia River 84 

50 Irrigating a strawberry field; Hood river Valley, 

west to Mt. Adams, Ore 85 

51 Where the Cascade Mountains wear eternal 

snows, Mt. Hood, Ore 86 

52 Perpetual winter— Mt. Tacoma and Nisqually 

Glacier, Washn 88 

53 Perilous climbing over ice-crags of Stevens Gla- 

cier, Mt. Tacoma, Wash 89 

54 Evolution of the sickle and flail — 33-horse har- 

vester at Walla W T alla, Wash. ... 90 

55 The most famous sight in Yellowstone Park 

— "Old Faithful" in eruption . . .91 

56 Wild buffalo at home on a sunny slope in Yel- 

lowstone Park 93 

57 Grizzly bear in the wooded wilderness of Yel- 

lowstone Park 94 

58 Down the river and canyon from brink of Lower 

Falls, Yellowstone Park 95 

59 The pride of the Mormons — Temple and Taber- 

nacle, Salt Lake City, Utah . . . .96 

60 Cliff dwellings of prehistoric men, Mesa Verde 

National Park, Colo 98 

61 Grand River Valley and its famous peach or- 

chards, Palisade, Colo 100 

62 Royal Gorge, where railway hangs over Arkan- 

sas River, Colo. 102 



6 CONTENTS 

PAGE 

63 Gray's and Torrey's peaks from Mt. McClellan, 

Colo. 102 

64 Gateway of Garden of the Gods and majestic 

Pike's Peak, Colo 103 

65 Balancing Rock, one of the wonderful landmarks 

in Garden of the Gods, Colo. . . . 105 

66 Nightingale Mine at Bull Hill, in the world's 

richest gold-field, Colo 106 

67 In the great cornfields of Osage Valley, east- 

ern Kansas . . . . . . . 107 

68 Whaleback freighters of ore and grain in canal, 

Sault Ste. Marie, Mich 108 

69 Looking up beautiful Dalles of Wisconsin River 

beyond Romance Cliff, Wis. .... Ill 

70 Loading a great whaleback ship at the famous 

grain elevators of Chicago .... Ill 

71 State St. (north from Adams), a thoroughfare 

eighteen miles long, Chicago .... 113 

72 Great Union Stock Yards, largest live-stock mar- 

ket on earth, Chicago 114 

73 A half-mile of pork in Armour's great packing- 

house, Chicago 115 

74 Prize-winning sheep (Shropshires) in a Jackson 

County pasture, Mich. ..... 117 

75 Unloading iron ore from lake vessels — old and 

new methods, Cleveland ..... 118 

76 The world's grandest waterfall, Niagara from 

Prospect Point . 120 

77 Wild waters of the Great Lakes hurrying sea- 

ward, Whirlpool rapids, Niagara . . . 121 

78 Great mass of frozen spray and ice-bound Amer- 

ican Falls, Niagara 122 

79 Steel works, famous source of gigantic fortunes, 

Homestead, Pa. 123 

80 Steel beam, red-hot, drawn out 90 feet long — 

steel works at Pittsburgh .... 124 

81 Famous Horseshoe Curve (80 ft. rise in 2,571 ft), 

Alleghany Mountains, Pa 125 

82 "High water mark" of Civil War and view south 

to Round Top, Gettysburg, Pa. 127 

83 Independence Hall, where Declaration was signed 

in 1776, Philadelphia 129 

84 Looking up Hudson River from grounds of U. 

S. Military Academy, West Point, N. Y. . 131 

85 Skirmish line drill of cadets— our future army 

officers, West Point, N. Y 132 



CONTENTS 7 

PAGE 

86 Bunker Hill Monument, memorial of famous 

Revolutionary battle (1775), Boston . . 134 

87 The "Cradle of Liberty," Faneuil Hall, scene of 

historic assemblies, Boston .... 136 

88 Stately old home of Longfellow, once Washing- 

ton's headquarters, Cambridge, Mass. . . 137 

89 Elmwood, birthplace and home of James Russell 

Lowell, Cambridge, Mass 138 

90 Brooklyn Bridge, west from Brooklyn toward 

Manhattan, New York City .... 140 

91 Castle Garden, Aquarium and Liberty Statue in 

harbor, New York City 141 

92 "In the good old summer time," holiday crowds 

on beach, Coney Island, N. Y 144 

93 Brilliant Luna Park at night. Coney Island, New 

York's great pleasure resort .... 144 

94 Singer Building (47 stories) and City Investing 

Building (13 acres floor), New York City . 145 

95 From Church St., past St. Paul's to Park Row 

Building (29 stories). New York City . . 147 

96 Flatiron Bldg., most remarkable business struc- 

ture on earth, New York City . . . 149 

97 Dining in the palatial banquet hall of Hotel As- 

tor, New York City 150 

98 Fifth Avenue north from St. Patrick's Cathedral 

past Vanderbilt homes, New York City . .151 

99 Interior finest Gothic structure in U. S. — St. Pat- 

rick's Cathedral, New York City . . . 153 
100 Honored resting place of Gen. Grant, outlook 

north up Hudson River, New York City . 154 



What You May See 157 

Books Woeth Reading 1GS 



INTBODUCTION 



Seeing all there is to see in the United States would 
mean exploring thoroughly an area of three million 
square miles. It would mean meeting nearly eighty 
million people. No one in these busy days can dream 
of covering the whole gigantic field of interest. All the 
same, it is easily possible for any man, however closely 
he may be tied to work in some particular place, to 
learn from his own observation the large, typical facts 
of this country, how it looks when one stands bodily 
in the middle of a great western cattle ranch, or on 
the dizzy brink of the mad Whirlpool Eapids of Niag- 
ara, or peering down into the unbelievable, ragged depths 
of the Grand Canyon of Arizona. He can see for 
himself some of the very men whom his vote helped 
send to Washington, sitting in the House of Kepre- 
sentatives. He can stand face to face with descendants 
of the original owners of American soil, and see their 
grotesque religious dance just as they have practiced 
it for centuries and centuries in appeal to the gods 
for rain. He can look across that memorable battle- 
field of Gettysburg by the old stone-wall where thou- 
sands of brave Americans threw their lives into the bal- 
ance to decide the greatest question in American his- 
tory. He can see Yosemite's mountain of bare granite, 
three thousand feet high; he can watch Oregon lum- 
bermen floating enormous logs down the Columbia; he 
can see 90-foot beams of steel, red-hot from the fierce 
fires of a Pittsburgh rolling mill. And he can ponder 
at his leisure over the sight of what American men 
have created out of just such steel and stone and tim- 
ber — giant office buildings forty-seven stories high, in 
New York City ! 

9 



JO THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

This memorable experience is possible for all sorts 
and conditions of men. It is made thus possible by the 
perfection of stereoscopic photography, the devising of 
unique locating maps, and the provision of special 
guidebooks. 

Stereoscopic photographs or stereographs are not just 
"little pictures." When a stereograph is held in the 
hand and examined with the unaided eye it seems to 
the inexperienced observer like a pair of photographs 
just alike, mounted side by side on one card. The 
fact is that the two parts are not alike — the negatives 
were taken at the same instant, but with two different 
lenses, set side by side in the camera about as far 
apart as a man's two eyes. 

Now a man's two eyes do not give him exactly 
duplicate reports in regard to any solid object at which 
he looks. You can easily prove this for yourself. Stretch 
out your own right arm at full length exactly in front 
of you, so that the outspread hand is seen edge-wise op- 
posite your face. Close the left eye and look only with 
the right; you see the edge of your hand and a part of 
the back of your hand. Keep your position unchanged, 
but close the right eye and look only with the left; 
this time you see the edge of your hand and a part 
of the palm. Now look with both eyes at once. You 
see with the right eye a part of the right side, with 
the left a part of the left side; the result is that you 
practically see part way around the hand, and that is 
what makes it look solid rather than flat or like a 
mere shadow on paper. 

Stereoscopic photography is based on this principle 
of two-eye vision. One lens of the stereoscopic cam- 
era takes in just what a man's right eye would see 
if he occupied the camera's place. The other lens 
takes in exactly what the man's left eye would see 
at the same instant. When the two resulting prints 
are placed before the oblique-set lenses of the stereo- 
scope, the impressions they give are combined into one. 
You see everything standing out solid with space around 
it, exactly as you would see it if you were bodily 
present on the spot, lacking only the element of color. 



TRAVEL BY MEANS OF STEREOGRAPHS H 

Try one more experiment to see how much difference 
there is between an ordinary "picture/' such as can be 
seen with one eye or taken with one lens, and a stereo- 
graph of the same place. Find Position 42 in this 
tour — "Yosemite Falls from Glacier Point trail/' Cov- 
er one side with your hand or with this book and look 
at the other side, not using the stereoscope. It is in- 
teresting — yes, that scenery must be grand, so you say. 
Now place the stereograph in the rack, adjust it at 
the proper distance for your eyes, and look at it through 
the stereoscope lenses. Does it not make you almost 
draw back with a shock of surprise? You feel your- 
self actually there on that perilously narrow shelf 
where the sure-footed horses are pausing; you almost 
hold your breath as you peer down into the bottom 
of the valley toward which the Yosemite waters are 
making their airy leap ! 

The difference between a mere picture and a stereo- 
graph is probably clear to you now. 

It seems to some people too wonderful for belief that 
stereographs should give them the impression of every- 
thing in the full size of the actual, existing world, 
yet this also is true. Look out through a window ten 
feet away at a man in the street beyond; how much 
space on the window-glass is actually occupied by his 
distant figure? The facts will surprise you. A visit- 
ing card held in your own hand at arm's length would 
more than cover him from sight. That same small 
card might cover a tall building, or even hide a dis- 
tant mountain, for a small thing near the eyes fills 
the same space as a much larger thing farther away. 
This fact of optics has also to do with the service ren- 
dered by stereographs, for the stereoscopic prints, when 
viewed through a stereoscope, become like so many 
windows through which you see the real things, full size, 
off at the distance where they actually were in fact, 
when confronted by the sensitized plates of the camera. 

The mechanical construction of the stereoscope in 
itself helps one to see everything in full size with the 
effect of real presence on the spot. The hood which 
fits against the forehead, shutting off as it does all 



12 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

sight of the things directly surrounding you as you sit 
in your own chair, makes it much easier for. you to 
forget that chair and the floor and the walls of your 
room — to think only of the other place at which you 
are looking, and to feel yourself actually there on the 
spot. 

But in order to have a thoroughly satisfactory sense 
of location on the spot you must know where "there" 
is; lacking such knowledge you still remain in the 
helpless condition of a man who has been carried some- 
where blindfolded or asleep, and who opens his eyes on 
a place whose identity is unknown. To meet the need 
in this line you will find the special, patent maps in- 
cluded in this little book quite invaluable. Do not fail 
to study the maps ; they will repay you tenfold for the 
slight exertion necessary in using them. 

Map 1, a general map of the United States, shows 
the entire line of movement from one position to an- 
other. The figures in red show exactly where you are 
standing in each case. The red lines diverging V 
fashion from many of these points show in what di- 
rection you are looking. At certain stages in your 
progress over the country you are to take several suc- 
cessive standpoints too near together to allow them to 
be marked clearly on the general map; in certain such 
cases a section of the country is enlarged to make a 
special map (e. g. Washington, Niagara, New York 
City), and on those sectional maps you find indicated 
not only your position and the direction of your out- 
look, but also the range or limit of that outlook. In 
each case you loolc over the area included between the 
diverging red lines, and you °ee as far off as the red 
lines reach on the printed map. 

You will find it well worth all the trouble it costs 
to pause at each standpoint and think definitely just 
where you are and not only what is before you, but also 
(wherever possible) what is behind you and what lies 
off at your left and your right beyond the limits of 
actual vision. This aids immensely if you want really 
to enter into the spirit of the place in question. If 
you take pains to do all this, you can certainly obtain 



TRAVEL BY MEANS OF STEREOGRAPHS 13 

a considerable measure of the very same feelings that 
you would have if you were bodily on the spot — the 
difference will be only as to the degree and intensity 
of feeling, not in regard to the kind of feeling. 

Do not hurry. Tourists often lose half the meaning 
and half the pleasure of a journey because of their 
tous way of scampering from one sight to another 
without stopping to think about what they see. To 
some extent this mistake can hardly be avoided when 
trains are due at certain moments and excursion tick- 
have limited dates. But, when you are looking at 
the country through stereographs instead of through 
car windows, you can take your time about it. You can 
liaiger long enough in any one spot so that the beauty 
and the meaning of what you see may be mentally di- 
ed. Best of all, you can keep going over and over 
n to any place which makes a particular strong 
appeal to you; you can gradually grow as familiar 
h it as if it were close by your home. 
The closing pages of this book suggest some lines 
ot interest which you may like to follow up for your- 
elf. The lists are offered only as clues or guide- 
ooards. They leave to you the pleasant task of dis- 
cing for yourself the genuine treasures of informa- 
. and inspiration toward which they will lead any 
ter who likes to do thinking of his own. 



HOW TO USE THE STEREOGEAPH SYSTEM 

Always sit so that a strong, steady light falls on the 
face of the stereograph. It is a good plan to let 
light come from over your shoulder. 

Hold the hood of the stereoscope close against the 
forehead, shutting out all sight of your immediate sur- 
roundings. 

Move the sliding rack, with the stereograph, along 
the shaft until you find the distance best suited to yc 
own eyes. This varies greatly with different peop 

Refer to the proper maps and know exactly whet 
you are in each case. 

Read what is said of each place in this book. 

Read the explanatory comments printed on the back 
of each stereograph mount. 

Go slowly. 

Go again. 

Think it over. 



14 



THE JOURNEY 

Such a journey as we are to make might be begun 
at any point with which the traveler is most familiar. 
For convenience it is planned to begin at the nation's 
capital city, Washington. It is well, at the start, to 
look over the general map of the United States (Map 
1, inserted at the back of this book) and refresh one's 
memory of the relative situation of the places to be 
visited. Our route is indicated by the red line. It 
runs from Washington, D. C, down the Atlantic sea- 
board into Florida, westward to New Orleans, up the 
Mississippi past St. Louis, with a side excursion into 
Tennessee; it crosses the southwestern states into Cali- 
fornia, goes northward through the Pacific Coast states 
and turns eastward again to reach Yellowstone Park, 
Utah, Colorado and Kansas in the middle-west. Then 
it turns toward the Great Lakes on the northern border 
of the countrv, touching Chicago and the lake-shore 
districts farther east. It pauses at Niagara, turns 
southward across Pennsylvania to Philadelphia; moves 
up into historic Massachusetts, and then comes down 
into New York to end the journey in that great cos- 
mopolitan .centre — America's greatest city, — the second 
largest focus of life and work in the whole world. 

Now turn to Map 2 where the city of Washington is 
shown by itself in full enough detail to make clear 
the location of the principal landmarks. The place 

15 Position l. map 2 



16 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

where we are to stand first is marked on this Washing- 
ton map with a figure 1 near by, enclosed in a red 
circle. Our actual position is to be at the point of a 
long red V with which the encircled figure is con- 
nected. The red lines spreading from that point to 
form the V enclose between them the space over which 
we shall be looking, and the direction in which they 
run shows that we shall be facing toward the southeast. 
Look carefully at the map. As you stand there, facing 
southeastward, a little pond will evidently be right 
before you with the Washington monument beyond it. 
The larger part of the city (so the map shows) will 
be off at your left, the Potomac river at your right. 
The Capitol will be ahead and off at the left but not 
w T ithin your range of view. Get your position and sur- 
roundings clearly in mind. Then take the stereograph 
whose number (1) corresponds to the number of your 
position as marked on the map, and see the place 
through the stereoscope. 

Position 1. Washington Monument, 555 feet 
high from northwest, Washington, D. C. 

Here we are in America's capital city, before her 
great national monument. This is the tallest stone 
building in the world. How it towers before us higher 
and higher into the sky ! Its dignified simplicity makes 
it an especially suitable memorial for the first Presi- 
dent of the world's greatest republic, where the prin- 
ciple of popular self-government is being gradually 
worked out before the eyes of other nations. 

It was in 1832, when the country was celebrating the 
hundredth anniversary of Washington's birth, that the 
idea of this monument first took shape. The corner^ 

Position 1. Map 2 



WASHINGTON, D. C. 17 

stone was laid in 1848 and between then and 1856 
the construction (in gray granite) was carried as far 
as funds allowed. All through the Civil War and dur- 
ing several years before and after the war, the work 
was at a standstill. You can see plainly from here 
now a line in the masonry showing where the work 
was abandoned and then begun again. As we see it 
now this is said to be the most perfect piece of work- 
manship of its kind in the world. Standing as it does 
actually more than a tenth of a mile high, it varies 
barely three-eighths of an inch from the absolute verti- 
cal. Think what precision that means ! Those walls at 
the base are fifteen feet thick, to support the enormous 
weight of granite blocks, while up there at the top they 
are lessened to a thickness of a foot and a half. That 
pyramidal cap away up on the peak is of white marble. 
Inside the shaft an elevator carries passengers up, up, 
up to where you see those window openings in the roof, 
looking like little dark dots on the marble surface. 
There is also a stairway of 900 steps, winding upward 
around the elevator shaft like the thread around the 
stem of a gigantic screw. 

Now look particularly at those two windows in the 
left (north) side of that lofty cap. Our next position 
is to be up there in the top of the monument, looking 
out northward over a part of the city. Consult the 
Washington map again and see how two long red lines 
reach off from the Monument northward to the limits 
of the map. Those two lines include between them 
what we are going to see from our second position. 
The map shows that the White House and its grounds 
will be seen near-by, directly before us, with the Treas- 
ury at the right, the State, War and Navy Department 



Position 2, Map 2 



18 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

at the left, and a long range of streets and houses 
beyond. 

Position 2. From Washington Monument north 
over the White House and Treasury 

Away down there before us, nestled among the trees, 
is the building which every President since Washing- 
ton's time has known as home. 

The President's special official rooms and the room 
where the Cabinet meetings are now held are in that 
long, low wing of which we catch a glimpse, extending 
from the left (west) side of the White House toward 
the big State, War and Navy Building. A similar low 
wing (we see only a bit of it through the trees) reaches 
eastward toward the Treasury building. The family 
residence rooms and those used for special social func- 
tions are in the main building. The famous East room, 
for example, is on the ground floor down there in the 
right half of the main body of the White House. Along 
those tree bordered streets beyond the White House 
grounds are the homes of many of the greatest men 
who have helped to make America what she is — men 
now in the thick of their work, and men who have 
passed on into history. 

Consult the Washington map again and see how 
another pair of red lines reach off eastward from the 
monument to the limits of the map where the ends of 
the lines are marked 3. Our third position is to be 
still up here in the top of the monument, but we are 
to look off from a window in the east side of the roof. 
Notice what the map shows included between those long 
red lines marked 3, for that is what we are to see. 



Positions 2, 3, Map 2 



WASHINGTON, D. C. 19 

Near-by will be the grounds of the Agricultural De- 
partment and of the Smithsonian Institution. Farther 
away (so the map tells us) we shall see the Capitol 
with the Congressional Library still farther eastward, 
and a wide reach of city streets on either side and 
beyond it. 



Position 3. From Washington Monument east to 
Capitol and Library 



As we are now looking east, we know that the White 
House and the other buildings north of the Monument, 
at which we were looking a few minutes ago, must be 
down at our left, outside our present range of view. 
Here directly before us, but five hundred feet below 
where we stand, we see the beautiful park of the Agri- 
cultural Department and the Smithsonian grounds, just 
as the map promised. That nearest structure down at 
the right is the Agricultural Building; the one with 
the pointed towers is the Smithsonian Institution with 
the National Museum beyond it. 

The Capitol itself, rising above the trees yonder 
with its great central dome and broad wings all snowy 
white, really crowns a commanding hill almost one 
hundred feet about the river level, but we are now so 
much higher than the hill that we hardly realize its 
height in comparison with the surrounding city. There 
is in fact no Government building in the world with 
a location better fitted to display its own beauty and 
dignity. That other building beyond the Capitol, with 
wings flanking a central gilded dome, is the Congres- 
sional Library. We shall visit both in the course of 
our journey, seeing for ourselves the famous legis- 



Posltion 3. Map 2 



20 THE UNITED STATES THBOUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

lative halls and some of the architectural beauties that 
make both buildings famous. 

Beyond the dome of the Capitol you see a stream 
that marks the eastern limits of the city; our map 
shows that it is a branch of the Potomac. When the 
Capitol was first built it was thought that land over 
at its farther (eastern) side would be the most desir- 
able part of the city site; indeed the main entrance to 
the Capitol itself w T as put on that farther side of the 
building; but as the city gradually developed it has 
grown most westward and northward. 

Now we will go down from the Monument into the 
city itself and take our stand at the southeast corner 
of the Treasury Building which we saw from Position 
2. Find the spot on the Washington map ; an encircled 
figure 4 is near-by, connected by a short wavy line with 
the point of another long red V. Midway between the 
spreading red lines the map shows Pennsylvania Ave- 
nue, leading straight from the Treasury toward the 
Capitol. We are evidently to face southeast and look 
about a mile and a quarter along this famous thorough- 
fare. The White House will be behind us, the Monu- 
ment off at our right. 

Position 4. Pennsylvania Avenue S, E* from the 
Treasury to the Capitol 

It seems hardly possible that the Capitol yonder above 
the trees should be over a mile away. Its size and its 
commanding position make it seem much nearer. That 
tower at the right hand side of the street marks the 
General Post Office, the central station where records 
are kept of the enormous postal business of this whole 
country. There the rules are made that systematize 



Position 4. Map 2 



WASHINGTON, D. C. 21 

for us the transmission of about eighteen billion pieces 
of our 17. S. mail matter every year. The building 
beyond it houses a celebrated hotel and restaurant. That 
tallest building on the left side of the street is another 
first-class hotel, the Willard, — known the length and 
breadth of the land by tourists and people in political 
life. Shops of all sorts, theatres, restaurants and sim- 
ilar establishments line the greater part of the street 
from here to the Capitol grounds. Just now we see 
the place in the comparative quiet of midsummer. At 
other times of year, when Congress is in session, there 
is more life everywhere. On each Inauguration Day 
this broad street becomes lined with solid masses of 
spectators, waiting to see a new President ride through 
to take the oath of office at the Capitol. 

We ourselves will move on now up to the Capitol, 
taking our next position near a farther (northeast) 
corner of the building where we can get a good view of 
its eastern front. The V lines as you find them marked 
on the map differ a good deal in length. We are to 
stand at the point of the V, you remember; the line 
at the left is considerably longer than the line at the 
right, promising that we shall be able to see over a 
longer distance towards the left than towards the right. 

Position 5. The United States Capitol, east front 

The map tells us that Pennsylvania Avenue is now 
at our right, running back from the Capitol grounds 
towards the Treasury and the White House. 

This, you understand, is not the same side of the 
Capitol which we have already seen from the Treasury 
(Position 4) and from the Monument (Position 3) ; 

Position 5. Map 2 



22 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

this is the east front on the side towards the great Li- 
brary. The Library is now just out of sight at our 
left. 

We often hear it said that our country is too young, 
too crude, too absorbed in the chase after money, to 
produce any art worth serious consideration, but this 
building before us does command the respectful admir- 
ation of competent critics from all lands. The propor- 
tions are beautiful ; it is excellently fitted to its practical 
purpose ; the decoration of the great white mass with its 
wide spreading arms is kept simple and in perfect 
keeping with the construction of the whole. And it is 
really remarkable that it should give us, as it does, the 
effect of one single serene whole, for in actual fact it 
has grown to its present size and shape through suc- 
cessive alterations. That central section with the. 
crowning dome was given the two broad wings long after 
its original construction, but the later architects put 
their new ideas into perfect harmony with the old, and 
so achieved a genuine masterpiece that may well make 
us honestly proud. 

The extension nearest to us now includes the Senate 
Chamber with a great number of offices and reception 
rooms. The Supreme Court holds its sessions in the 
older part of the building which you see beyond this 
first entrance portico. In the extension at that farther 
end of the whole building is the Hall of Eepresentatives. 

We will go there now. 

Position 6\ A joint session of the Senate and 
House of Representatives 

We are looking down from a gallery on the west 
side of the hall, into a room where some of the most 
important discussions in our recent history have taken 

Position 6. Map 2 



WASHINGTON, D, C. 23 

place. Some of the hottest debates on subjects of the 
deepest import to American life have been held by 
members of the House, speaking from the floor down 
there below us. 

What we see just now is a special session, with the 
senators, the Justices of the Supreme Court, the Cabi- 
net members and various distinguished guests, in ad- 
dition to regular members of the House, crowding the 
room to its utmost capacity. The occasion is John Hay's 
memorial eulogy of McKinley in 1902. Secretary 
Hay is now addressing the assembly. Directly before 
him in a front seat just this side of the centre aisle 
is Theodore (then President) Eoosevelt. Chief Jus- 
tice Fuller occupies the front seat at the farther side 
of the aisle with other Supreme Court Justices beyond 
him. Prince Henry of Prussia sits just this side of 
Eoosevelt. Fully half the men in sight are famous and 
deservedly so. Almost all are men who have had a hand 
in the shaping of our American institution. 

The people in the opposite gallery are wives, daugh- 
ters and neighbors of the men on the floor, admitted on 
special invitation. 

Xow we will mount to the dome of the Capitol and 
look off over the eastern part of the city. Consult the 
Washington map once more and see how two lines 
(numbered 7 at the extremities) start from the dome 
and reach beyond the map limits. They include be- 
tween them a park, then the Library of Congress, then 
a broad expanse of the eastern part of the city. Notice 
that we ought to see Pennsylvania Avenue continuing 
far off toward the southeast, lined with rows of trees. 

Positions 6, 7, Map 2 



24 THE UNITED STATES THBOUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

Position 7. The magnificent Congressional Lib- 
rary east from the Capitol 

Here it is as we expected, — the shady space of the 
park, the beautiful granite mass of the Library, and 
the city beyond, with the low green hills of Maryland 
to end the outlook. The tree-bordered ribbon of Penn- 
sylvania avenue's continuation is easy to identify be- 
yond one shoulder of the Library. But it is the Library 
itself which interests us most. That low, flat dome 
with its gilded surface marked off with bronze is one 
of the best things of its kind in the whole country. 
The more you look at it the more fully you appreciate 
the beauty of its design. It was purposely kept smaller 
and lower than the dome of the Capitol, in order not to 
injure the commanding accent or emphasis of the older 
building; that in itself meant true artistic feeling in 
the architect, for the easy and cheap thing would nat- 
urally have been to try to make this building call at- 
tention to itself as a rival of its older neighbor. Every 
American with any sense of beauty and harmony ought 
to be grateful for the cultivated sense which prevented 
any such clashing rivalry. The building is really bigger 
than it looks, covering the better part of four acres, 
open courts alternating with enclosed sections so that 
every part of the huge structure is well lighted. In 
that front corner farthest to ihe right, on the ground 
floor, is a special reading room for Senators. In the 
section between that corner and the central part of the 
building is the Bepresentatives' own particular place for 
consulting books. At the same time, members of Con- 
gress naturally have special privileges about taking 
books for outside use. There is an underground tube 
running from here over to the Capitol, through which 
volumes needed in the course of debate or committee 



Position 7. Map 2 



WASHINGTON, D. C. 25 

work can be sent by pneumatic power in a very few 
moments. Directly under the dome is a great central 
room, 125 feet high, where anybody may go freely to 
read and study. The library is less than a century 
old, but wise purchases have made it include immensely 
valuable collections of early publications, and each year 
its possessions are increased by copies of every book, 
pamphlet, map and photograph that is copyrighted in 
this country. In that way it keeps completely abreast 
of current American literature and American editions 
of all foreign literature. 

The casual sight-seer cannot linger to do any read- 
ing; all the same he cannot afford to pass on without 
at least one glimpse of the interior of the building, 
for it is as splendid in its decoration as a palace might 
be. We ourselves will pass in through one of those 
arched doorways, cross a marble vestibule, and stand 
for a minute in the main entrance-hall from which stair- 
cases rise to the second story. 

Position 8. Grand Staircase in the Congressional 
Library 

There are two marble staircases like this, one at each 
side of the hall. This is at the north side. If instead 
of going upstairs a person walks straight through east- 
ward (right) he comes to the great public reading room 
in the lofty rotunda under the dome. The floor here 
under your feet is of Italian marbles — reddish from 
Verona, taw r ny yellowish from Siena. That bronze 
figure lighting the way with a torch of electric bulbs is 
typical of a great amount of decorative sculpture in 
various parts of the building. Every bit of ornament 
that you see has some appropriate meaning. The chub- 

PosUlonS. Map 2 



26 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

by child-figures that alternate with drooping curves 
of garlands along the staircase balustrade represent dii> 
ferent occupations and interests in human life — the stu- 
dent of plant life, the student of animal life, the stu- 
dent of books, etc. Those marble pillars that stand in 
pairs supporting the vaulting above are as beautiful in 
workmanship as you would find in the most famous 
buildings of Europe and perfect in every detail. The 
walls and ceilings of which you get glimpses here and 
there are ornamented with exquisite mosaic in stone 
of many colors or with sculptured bands and figures. 
The whole hall is like a dream of architectural splen- 
dor, comparable only with a few foreign palace inte- 
riors. What makes the splendor suitable for our re- 
publican land is perhaps the fact that this is the peo- 
ple's palace. The poorest working man or woman in 
the United States is one of its owners and has a right 
to enjoy all it can offer of pleasure or profit. 

We w T ill go back now past the Capitol and along 
Pennsylvania Avenue, by the Treasury building, and 
around to the north side of the White House. The 
Washington map marks our next position with the num- 
ber 9 at the edge of Lafayette park and the V lines 
show that we are to face directly south. 

Position .9. The White House, historic home of 
the Nation 9 s Chief 

The Treasury building is of course at our left, with 
Pennsylvania avenue leading off southeasterly to the 
Capitol and the Library where we have lately been. 
The Monument, from which we got our first glimpse 
of the White House, is straight ahead beyond the White 
House, about half a mile away. 

Positions 8, 9. Map 2 



WASHINGTON, D. C. 27 

We see just now only the main body of the Presi- 
dent's home; the low broad wings which extend from 
it east and west are hidden by the trees. But what 
we see now — this simple and dignified dwelling house 
of Virginia freestone, with a pillared portico in the 
traditional style of fine old southern mansions, — is the 
White House as all our Presidents knew it from John 
Adams' time down to McKinley's. Washington him- 
self never lived here, but he chose the site and laid the 
corner-stone. The family dining-room is on the ground 
floor at the right of the large portico ; the State dining- 
room w r here distinguished guests are formally enter- 
tained is beyond it at the farther side of the house. 
The famous Green, Blue and Eed rooms are on the 
ground floor at the farther side of the house opposite 
the portico. The East room, where large receptions 
are held, occupies the entire ground floor at the left 
side of the portico and has windows on three sides. 
The second-story rooms are occupied by individual 
members of the President's family or his personal 
guests. 

We ourselves will enter through the door under that 
portico and go into the East room at the left of the 
entrance, turning when we get inside so as to look back 
through those northern window's toward this stretch of 
grassy lawn across which we have been inspecting the 
house. 

Position 10. The East Room where receptions 
are held, White House 

It is a room forty by eighty feet in size, well fitted 
for large gatherings, and it has served many purposes, 
both tragic and gay. Lincoln's body lay in state here 

Positions 9, JO. Map 2 



gg THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

before being borne away for burial. Kaiser Wilhelm's 
brother Prince Henry of Prussia was dined here. 
President Grant's daughter Nellie and President Koose- 
velt's daughter Alice were both married here. The 
room now is very different from what it was in Grant's 
time; the heavy upholstery of those days has given 
place to this simpler, airier effect. It is a thoroughly 
beautiful room now, not at all showy except as its size 
necessarily keeps it out of the ordinary, but stately, 
serene, and with a distinct air of refinement. It is a 
room quite worthy to reecive any honored guest of our 
republic's Chief Magistrate. 

Of course you wish to see the Chief Magistrate him- 
self. No visit to Washington would be satisfactory if 
it lacked a glimpse of the President. His official work- 
room is away off at our left, in the west end of a long, 
low wing stretching out towards the State, War and 
Navy building. We had a glimpse of the wing from 
Position 2. 

Position 11. The President at his deslz, Executive 
Office in the White House 

There is no harder worked man in the United States 
than its Chief Magistrate. He is Commander-in-chief 
of the army and the navy, and is responsible for their 
efficiency. He is responsible for the appointment of 
the members of his Cabinet and to a greater or less 
extent for what they do as heads of their several de- 
partments. On him rests the main burden of main- 
taining the right relations (friendly or unfriendly, as 
justice demands) with all the other nations of the 
world. He must suggest measures and policies to Con- 
gress and sit in judgment on the proceedings of Con- 



PosUion 11. Map 2 



WASHINGTON, D. C. 29 

gress. He must with his own hand sign enormous 
numbers of documents of every description — documents 
that mean peace or war; that mean business prosperity 
or "hard times"; often documents that mean freedom 
or dreary imprisonment,, life or death, to individuals 
who have come under the ban of law. 

In old times the affairs of the President's office 
used to be managed in an unsystematic, happy-go-lucky 
fashion. A vast amount of official business went 
through without ever being formally recorded — such 
was the easy custom of old times — and papers were 
seldom so filed as to be promptly available for later 
reference. But for half a century the technique of the 
office system here has been gradually improved, and 
now everything is done with the same exactness and 
completeness of method that would be found in the best 
business house. 

You remember that when we looked north from the 
Monument (Position 2) we saw the great building 
which houses the State, War and Navy Departments, 
just west of the White House. We shall end our Wash- 
ington sightseeing with a visit to one part of that build- 
ing, occupied by the State Department. 

Position 12. Diplomatic Room in the State De- 
partment, where conferences are held 

This is where the Secretary of State receives 
Ambassadors, Ministers and other representatives of 
foreign governments, and confers with them on mat- 
ters which have to do with our international relations. 

When an "ambassador" comes here, he technically 
represents not only the government of his nation but 
actually the person of his home sovereign. A "minis- 

Position 12. Map 2 



30 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

ter" represents his nation's government but is not sup- 
posed to be actually the personal substitute of the for- 
eign ruler. The custom of European and other foreign 
nations is of course to have their representatives ob- 
serve and expect elaborate formalities of intercourse; 
consequently these walls listen to an immense number 
of the ceremonious courtesies that keep friendly rela- 
tions unruffled or help bring amicable understanding 
out of possible difficulties. 

The meetings that take place here do not go on 
public record. Sometimes we know about them be- 
cause of their results; oftener we never hear of them 
at all, because they relate to matters on which the 
public is utterly without knowledge and about which 
the public could not possibly have opinions of value. 
Over-enterprising journals would often be glad to give 
enormous sums for a chance to exploit in big head- 
lines the subject of some quiet talk in this room, but 
they never get the chance. And no doubt innumerable 
matters are here talked over and amicably arranged, 
which might — if indiscreetly handled and given out to 
gossips — have involved the nation in serious, if not 
tragic trouble. 

We say good-bye to Washington now* and begin our 
tour of the country at large by starting southward into 
the storied ground of old Virginia, one of the original 
States that together formed the Union. And our next 
position is to be at the old home of one of Virginia's 

♦For more outlooks in different parts of Washington, 
take the full tour — Washington through the Stereoscope, 
42 positions, with a guide book by Rufus Rockwell Wilson, 
author of Washington the Capital City, etc. The biogra- 
phies of all our Presidents are full of stories and allusions 
that make the Washington landmarks rich in meaning for 
the sightseer. 

Position 12. Map 2 



ARLINGTON, VIRGINIA 31 

most famous sons. Our map of the city of Washington 
marks the spot 13. It is just outside of Washington, 
over on the other bank of the Potomac river. 

Position 13. General liobert E. Lee's old home 
at Arlington, Va. 

We are up on a hill two hundred feet above the river, 
with acres of grassy open lawns, flowery gardens and 
shady woods around us. This is historic ground be- 
neath our feet. The land here was once part of the 
home estate of John Parke Custis whose widow later 
married George Washington. This estate passed to 
one of her grand-children, George Washington Parke 
Custis, and in 1802 he built the fine house with its 
Greek portico, for his own home. His daughter mar- 
ried Colonel Eobert E. Lee, a son of "Light Horse 
Harry" Lee, of Eevolutionary fame. When 1861 
brought its tragic conflict of duties, and Lee felt that 
he must devote his own splendid gifts to the Con- 
federate cause, this beautiful home, with all its proud 
and tender associations, was left behind for the hard- 
ships of the camp, the march and the battlefield. Now 
for almost half a century the place has been the proper- 
ty of the United States Government, and it is used 
as a national cemetery. Twenty thousand graves of 
United States soldiers are here covered every year by 
new grass and flowers. In one place not far from this 
house rests the dust of more than two thousand men 
whose names are unknown, — men who died for their 
country on battlefields of the Civil War, without having 
their heroism put on any human record. 

There is perhaps no spot in the length and breadth of 
the land which appeals more strongly to a man with 
keen human sympathies than this old home, surrounded 



Position 13. Map 2 



32 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

by the graves of those who fought out the struggle of 
half a century ago. 

There are a good many charming books that describe 
life in Virginia before the desolating years of the 
war. Thomas Nelson Page's, for example, are well 
worth reading: The Old South, Social Life in Old 
Virginia before the War, etc., etc. 

Mary Johnston's To Have and To Hold is a Vir- 
ginia romance of much earlier times, going back to 
the seventeenth century. 

Sixteen miles below Washington and Arlington, on 
the Virginia side of the Potomac river, we find our 
next position. 

Position 14. Home of Washington, Memorial of 
the Republic's Founder, 3ft. Vernon, Va. 

It was from this beautiful home that Washington 
went out as a soldier. Here he returned after bring- 
ing the Eevolution to a victorious close. Here he was 
living when the people of the United States elected him 
the first President of the new nation which his gen- 
ius had helped bring into existence. Here, after he 
retired from public life, he spent his days as a good 
citizen and an enthusiastic student, still laboring hard, 
in a private capacity, to help solve the problems of na- 
tional growth and national unity. Here he received 
visits and letters from many of the most distinguished 
men of his time ; you remember Prussian Frederick the 
Great sent here a portrait of himself inscribed "From 
the oldest general in Europe to the greatest general 
in the world." 

In 1860 the estate was bought with funds contribu- 
ted from all over the country by an association of 

Position 14, Map t 



MOUNT VERNON 33 

patriotic women, and it has since been the property 
of the nation. The various rooms of the house have 
been restored as nearly as practicable to their old ap- 
pearance ; some of the furniture is that which Washing- 
ton owned, and the rest is at least of similar age and 
style. The outlying farm buildings, servants' quart- 
ers, etc., are restored also, preserving quite perfectly 
the effect of a typical southern mansion with its de- 
pendencies. 

The Potomac river which flows past Washington, 
Arlington and Mt. Vernon, flows into Chesapeake Bay. 
Near where the Bay itself is about opening into the 
Atlantic is one of the best harbors on the whole east- 
ern seacoast — Hampton Eoads. We shall take our next 
position (15) there, on the deck of a steamship. 

Position 15. U. S. Battleships-CONNECTICUT 
in the lead— steaming out to sea 

It is a sight that makes the heart beat faster — not 
altogether because of visions of battle, destruction and 
death, but because of the national strength and power 
which these ocean giants embody. Even so recently as 
the time of the great Civil War, our navy was a poor 
affair, beneath the consideration of the great nations 
of the Old World. Today,' — though opinions differ as 
to the extent to which we should carry the enlargement 
of our navy, — we have (in 1910) 31 effective battleships, 
12 armored cruisers, 16 "protected" cruisers, 5 moni- 
tors, 26 destroyers, 53 torpedo boats and submarines, 
with others building. 

The Connecticut, just now steaming directly towards 
us, is a 16,000 ton battleship with 11 inch steel armor. 
She carries four 12 in. guns, eight of 8 in. and a dozen 

Position 15. Map 1 



34 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

more of 7 in. and her engines give her 16,500 horse- 
power. She is manned by over 880 men and can make 
18 knots. Behind her follow the Kansas, the Louisiana, 
the Vermont, and a dozen others of our finest vessels. 

How short a time it has taken to develop the idea 
of steelclad sea fighters like these! It was here at 
Hampton Eoads in these very waters, in 1862, that 
the famous battle between the Merrimac and Erics- 
son's newly invented Monitor opened a new era in naval 
warfare. Ever since then improvements in armored 
vessels have multiplied. Changes in construction and 
finish have even within the last dozen or twenty years 
been so marked that some of the ships and cruisers 
which gained our splendid victories during the war 
with Spain are now in certain respects behind the 
times. But though their day of leadership is past they 
are still equal to splendidly effective service, and their 
glory is historic. 

Longfellow's poem — "At anchor in Hampton Eoads 
we lay" is something forever associated with these heav- 
ing waters. Every history of the United States gives 
some account of the old sea-fight; it is well re-told in 
Theodore Eoosevelt's Hero Tales of American History. 

Virginia is one of the most beautiful parts of the 
whole country. We will take just one glimpse up 
among the Blue Eidge mountains near the centre of the 
State. The place where we are to stand is marked on 
our general map by the number 16. 



Position 10. One of Nature's curiosities, the 
Natural Bridge, Va. 

You are in the district known as National Bridge 



Positions /J, 16. Map 1 






NATURAL BRIDGE, VIRGINIA 35 

Park, near Lexington and the banks of the historic 
James river. Just now you stand between two of a 
group of five mountains which make the region rich 
in picturesque effects. This gigantic bridge connects 
two of the mountains. It is one solid mass of lime- 
stone. From the surface of this little creek which 
dances at your feet up to the top of the bridge is a 
height of two hundred and fifteen feet. That open 
arch in itself is ninety feet high. Only geologists can 
guess how long ago nature carved it. White men have 
known of its existence since 1759. While George Wash- 
ington was surveying this district for Lord Fairfax 
he visited the place and carved his name on a smooth 
space on one of the rocks. Thomas Jefferson was for 
a good many years the owner of this ground, and he 
built a cabin near by for the shelter of visitors who 
might come to see the marvel, stationing a couple of 
his negro slaves here to act as caretakers at the cabin. 
In those days and for a long time afterward a tire- 
some journey on horseback was necessary in order to 
reach the spot, but a great many distinguished people 
did take pains to come here, and left their impressions 
of the place on record. Henry Clay wrote eloquently 
of "the bridge not made with hands, that spans a river, 
carries a highway, and makes two mountains one." 

The mountain districts of North Carolina could show 
us scenery of superb beauty, but we shall see a good 
deal of noble landscape in the course of our journey, 
so we will choose here rather to see the unique labor 
conditions under w r hich one of our great, typical in- 
dustries is commonly carried on. The position we shall 
take is in the south-central part of North Carolina, 
at the spot marked 17 on our general map. 

Position 16. Map 1 



36 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

Position 17. In the southern pine woods, collect" 
ing crude turpentine, N. C 

This is in what they call the "sand belt" of the state, 
where sandy soil of great depth produces enormous 
numbers of the long-leaf pine. The resinous fragrance 
of the trees is very marked; thousands of people come 
every year to the resort called "Pinehurst" and other 
places in Moore County for the pleasant tonic of the 
air. The climate is somewhat like that of southern 
France. 

Instead of the Provengal peasants of the Kiviera, 
this region has negroes, who do much of the manual 
labor and help make things picturesque. Gathering the 
pine-tree sap is hereabouts an important means of earn- 
ing a living. The sap naturally rises under the pro- 
tecting bark and distributes itself gradually among the 
branches. In order to intercept its flow they strip off 
the outside bark, — not in a complete ring, for that 
would soon ruin the tree, — but part-way around, leav- 
ing an untouched strip to allow some of the sap still 
to creep upwards and nourish the tree. Each season 
they take off a section of bark higher than the one 
removed the year before. The sap (i. e. the crude tur- 
pentine) oozes out of the bared "sap-wood" and trickles 
downward to that hollow near the roots; the accumu- 
lated drippings are once in so often dipped out and 
added to the slowly increasing contents of kegs and 
casks. That ramshackle ox-cart will carry it off to 
where its impurities can be removed by distillation. 

Eesin and spirits of turpentine produced from crude 
turpentine like this serve an immense number of pur- 
poses in practical industries. More than $25,000,000. 
worth of the stuff is produced every year in our land 
and most of it comes from the southern Atlantic sea-. 



Position 17. Map I 



RICE IN SOUTH CAROLINA 37 

board states, because the particular species of pine that 
produces the most turpentine grows best in southern 
sands. 

If you are interested in the picturesque side of negro 
life, its humor, its pathos and its quaint fancies, the 
stories of Joel Chandler Harris ("Uncle Remus") and 
Ruth McEnery Stuart will be an unfailing mine of 
entertainment. 

Another important crop that we see as we move on 
southward is rice. Notice where we are to get our next 
outlook, at the spot marked 18 on the general map. 

Position IS. A rice raft with plantation hands 
near Georgetown, S. C. 

On great level tracts of low ground, like this which 
you see now, some of the best rice in the country is 
raised. Late in the fall the ground is ploughed and 
then flooded with water from irrigation ditches to loos- 
en-up the soil. In early spring the surplus water is 
drained off and seed is planted, two or three bushels to 
an acre. The seed is covered with a very light sprinkling 
of soil and then wet down once more so that it may 
sprout in soft, warm mud. While the grain is growing 
(rice is really a sort of specialized grass) the ground 
is again flooded at intervals to keep the soil soft and 
wet. Only when the crop is nearly ready for harvest 
is the earth allowed to dry and harden under the hot 
sunshine. A great many improvements have been made 
during the last few years in the line of harvesting ma- 
chinery, so that the work can now be done much more 
expeditiously than in old times. Threshing is done 
in the field. 

This scow is loaded with rice-straw from the thresh- 



Positlon 18. Map I 



38 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

ers. It is used for fodder, for bedding, paper-stock, 
etc., etc. Darky "hands" like these are employed on 
all the plantations hereabouts. They are of course de- 
scendants of the slaves of an earlier time. Their an- 
cestors were imported generations ago from the African 
Gold Coast and the banks of the Congo. 

The Carolinas, North and South, are among the old- 
est of the sister states. They both took an active part 
in old colonial affairs and in the struggles of the Eev- 
olutionary War. And later still, in the times of the 
Civil War, spots before unknown to fame earned a place 
in the national history. In fact the Civil War began 
in the harbor of Charleston. Our next position (marked 
19) will be on a boat in that harbor. 

Position If). If here the Civil War began— Fort 
Sumter in Charleston harbor, S. C. 

The city is about four miles away farther up the 
harbor. December 20, 1860, South Carolina seceded 
from the Union. A few days later Major Anderson 
who had command of a United States garrison at Fort 
Moultrie up nearer the city, transferred the garrison to 
this island that you see now. The Governor of the 
State demanded the evacuation of this fort. Ander- 
son refused. His supplies ran short and others sent 
from the North were prevented from reaching here. 
By the first of April supplies were very low indeed, 
and meanwhile the State had been making ready to 
demolish Anderson's stronghold. Batteries were con- 
structed for the purpose on Morris Island only three- 
quarters of a mile away and at Fort Moultrie. 

President Lincoln notified Governor Pickens that 



Position 19. Map 1 



FORT SUMTER 39 

provisions would be forwarded by the United States to 
Fort Sumter. Governor Pickens authorized General 
Beauregard to demand the surrender of the Fort. An- 
derson refused to surrender. Beauregard opened fire 
and for thirty-six hours poured shot and shell on this 
little fortress, answered vigorously as long as the gun- 
ners had any food left to enable them to stick to their 
duty. At last, on the 14th of April, Anderson ab- 
solutely had to surrender; though not a man in the 
fort had been killed by the bombardment, all were prac- 
tically starved out. From that day, it was plain that 
the question at issue would have to be fought out to 
a finish. 

It was just four years after the surrender (April 
14, 1865) that the same commander, — a Kentuckian 
by birth — raised again over this fort the same United 
States flag which he had been forced to haul down. (See 
any good history of the Civil War.) 

The tragic conditions that prevailed in this part of 
the country during and directly after the war have now 
largely passed away, and the Southern States are en- 
tering on broader and more solid prosperity than they 
had enjoyed before the great conflict over States' rights. 
In old times there were almost no manufacturing in- 
dustries in this part of the country. The whole popu- 
lation had practically to be supported directly from 
the land. Home-grown cotton was sent to the factories 
of ISTew England and Old England to be transformed 
into cloth, and factory operatives in those regions put 
the factory wages in their pockets — wages which the 
South naturally had to pay in the form of prices per 
yard for the finished cloth. Now let us visit a great 
mill in Columbia, S. C. (the place is marked 20 on 

Position 19. Map 1 



40 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

our map) and see how such work is being done on 
South Carolina soil. 

Position 20. In a great spinning room {104,000 
spindles), Olympian Mills, Columbia, S. C. 

It is one of the largest cotton mills in the coun- 
try where you stand now. As you see, a good many 
children are employed here,,; — an unfortunate state of 
things which will doubtless be remedied in the course 
of time. Competition makes it apparently necessary 
to secure cheap labor, and this part of the country does 
not have at hand any swarm of newly arrived immi- 
grants from European factory towns, such as pour into 
the manufacturing centres of New England and the 
Middle States. It is everywhere still a serious prob- 
lem how to produce cheap goods and at the same time 
pay decent wages. 

To anybody who cares to think below the surface 
of things a scene like this is full of fascinating sug- 
gestion. Long before history began to be written, sav- 
age people had somehow conceived the idea of inter- 
lacing long grasses or strips of great leaves back and 
forth so as to make a continuous fabric. After a 
while they found they could twist strips or fibres to- 
gether, so as to make short pieces of weaving-stuff 
hold together like one continuous thread. And with 
that primitive invention they had the fundamental 
processes of both spinning and weaving. Since that 
far off day we have simply been perfecting the details 
and learning how to work more quickly. Up to three 
hundred years ago the woman who toiled twisting flax 
or cotton or wool fibres into a continuous thread, with 
only her fingers and a weighted top to help her, had 
to stop every few moments to wind off on a rude spool 

Position 20. Mao 



A SOUTHERN COTTON PLANTATION 41 

the thread she had produced. The invention of a spin- 
ning wheel for flax made it possible to twist the fibres 
and wind off the finished thread at the same time. 
Then in 17G4 Hargreaves, an English mechanic, in- 
vented a machine that would tw T ist and wind-off eight 
threads at a time instead of only one thread. When 
the idea had once been worked out, it was not difficult 
to increase the capacity of such machines until each 
one could produce sixteen threads, twenty, — more and 
still more. 

The machines in this one room carry 104,000 spin- 
dles, each one revolving 9,000 times in a minute, and 
they keep it up through the working day. The chief 
duty of these boy laborers is to watch the spindles for 
breaks or other defects in the thread, which would pre- 
vent the product from being first-class for its intended 
use in cloth weaving. 

Shall we see how this cotton is grown? All the 
Atlantic seaboard states, the Gulf states and those of 
the lower Mississippi valley raise cotton in enormous 
quantities. The position we are to take is set down in 
Georgia and marked 21. 

Position 21. Cotton is King. Plantation scene 
with pickers at work, Ga. 

There are plantations where cotton is picked by me- 
chanical harvesters, — machines ingeniously contrived to 
straddle the bushes without crushing them. But most 
of the picking is still done in this slower, safer way 
by hand. The field hands are always darkies like these, 
and a picturesque sight they make with their black or 
bronze faces and their gay calico shirts and gowns 
painting spots of color against the white of the cotton- 
bolls and the faded browns of the dry leafage. 

Position 21. Map 1 



42 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

The plants themselves you hardly see in any recog- 
nizable fashion now that the leaves and stalks are so 
withered. They are really second-cousins to our garden 
hollyhocks, with a special distinguishing fad of their 
own for surrounding their seeds with a mass of fluffy 
white fibre. The plant will grow well only in regions 
with a high temperature, moderate rainfall and abun- 
dant sunshine — conditions furnished in perfection by 
great tracts of country in the southern seaboard states, 
along the Gulf and for some distance up the Mississippi 
valley. We produce more than eighty-five per cent, of 
all the cotton grown in the world, and as agricultural 
science becomes more and more able to meet the prob- 
lems of fertilizing soil and of destroying insect pests, 
our production must naturally increase still more. 

In old times the business had a great many "loose 
ends" where the by-products were wasted. For years 
the fibre was pulled by hand from the seeds, after 
picking, and the seeds (together with quantities of ne- 
glected fibre) were thrown away. The invention of the 
mechanical "gin" or separator saved waste of fibre, and 
since then wonderful advances have been made in the 
utilization of what had before been lost. Now a well- 
managed plantation wastes nothing. The seeds furnish 
vast quantities of valuable oil, and their crushed pulp, 
— in fact even the mass of discarded hulls too — is used 
for cattle fodder or made into fertilizers. 

The life of just such negro folk as these has been 
ably described by a writer of their own race, Charles W. 
Chesnutt. His Conjure Woman and short stories like 
The Wife of His Youth, are particularly valuable for 
anybody who likes to understand his fellow creatures' 
conditions and problems. 

Position 21. Map 1 



ST. AUGUSTINE 43 

The oldest town in all our United States territory is 
down in Florida, and to this day it is full of sights 
that point thought back to the romantic sixteenth cen- 
tury. Suppose, for instance, we see one such sight for 
ourselves. The place to which we have to go is marked 
22, at St. Augustine. 

Position 22. In old St. George St. north to Span- 
ish city gate, St. Augustine, Fla. 

The cathedral and the huge modern hotels are only 
a short distance away behind you at the left. You 
are now looking north; in old times, before Florida 
belonged to the United States at all, the Spanish 
colonists had their own compact little town here, pro- 
tected all around by earthworks where guards were 
stationed, and across this northern end by a deep ditch 
besides, with a high parapet of stone. You see that 
gateway straight ahead, with its tall, square pillars? 
That used to be the main entrance to the town. Just 
beyond it the ditch (or moat) ran east to a strong fort 
on the Matanzas river and west to the S. Sebastian 
river. It was crossed by a draw T bridge. At night the 
drawbridge used to be hauled up and that gateway closed 
with massive timbers. The fort still stands outside 
the gate yonder, a few rods eastward (right), though 
it is now merely a curiosity. It could be of no service 
at all under present-day conditions of artillery service. 
At one time and another this old town has seen its 
share of terrific righting. In Queen Elizabeth's time 
Sir Francis Drake landed here on his way from the 
West Indies back to England and pillaged the town in 
lively pirate fashion. For the next two hundred years 
English and Spanish were quarreling over this terri- 
tory. It was not until 1821 that the Spanish flag final- 

Posiiion 22. Map 1 



44 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

ly came down, but then it was replaced by the flag of 
the United States. 

That overhanging gallery on the old house at the 
right is thoroughly Spanish in its style, repeating a 
custom established here long, long ago — a custom ex- 
cellently adapted to a sub-tropical land like this where 
the combination of shade and fresh air is a luxury de- 
voutly to be desired. That grizzled old darky with his 
rickety ox-wagon is typical too. The Spanish brought 
African slaves here to work the plantations. 

People from other parts of the country often think 
of Florida chiefly as a winter resort for rich tourists, 
and indeed tourists and their doings do make a con- 
spicuous element during the fashionable season — late 
winter and early spring. We ourselves will go about 
fifty miles farther down the east coast to a race-track 
unique in its way. 

Position 23. Automobiles on the tvorld's finest 
race track— Ov^mond-Daytona Beach, Fla. 

Thirty miles long is this beautiful beach; its mar- 
velously firm sand is made up chiefly of fragments of 
coquina shells, pulverized by the ceaseless action of old 
Ocean during uncounted centuries. The space avail- 
able for motoring is from three hundred to five hundred 
feet wide and nature's road bed surpasses everything 
that human ingenuity has yet produced. It is an 
ideal place in which to let-out speed, for there is prac- 
tically no chance for accident if a machine is itself in 
good condition. 

The town of Daytona, famous for its beautiful trees 
festooned with Spanish moss, lies off at your left on the 
mainland. This beach is a long island sand-bar sepa- 

Positioa 23. Map 1 



SEMI-TROPICAL FLORIDA 45 

rated from Daytona proper by the lagoon known as 
Halifax river. 

Smaller lagoons, creeks and little rivers abound 
along this beautiful east coast of Florida, making the 
region one of delight for a lover of landscape beauty. 
See for instance one such creek near Ormond, only 
five or six miles from where we stood on the broad 
sea-beach. The spot is marked 24. 

Position 24. "And the palm tree nodded to the 
mirror in the jungle," Ormond, Fla. 

It is a thoroughly characteristic glimpse of inland 
Florida that you get beside this sleepy bend in the 
creek. Along streams like this you might paddle day 
after day, exploring the country — coming here and 
there upon open, cultivated fields of pineapples, or 
groves of orange trees; touching here and there at a 
boat-landing that promises a friendly roof near-by. But 
much of the way you would find nature still left to 
her own devices; and the result is a dreamy, tropical 
tangle of foliage, its beauty doubled by reflection in 
the placid waters. 

Alligators like these ugly fellows used to be the chief 
land-owners along these banks, but they are less com- 
mon nowadays since the fashionable world took to us- 
ing their scaly hides for leather-goods. Years ago 
some of the most beautiful of our large, native birds 
were common here too, — the flamingo, the egret and 
their near relatives; but now they are to be found only 
far inland in the bewildering, trackless regions of the 
great swamps. 

Never a breath of winter cold is felt here. With 



Position 24. Map ( 



46 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

the warm Gulf waters west of Florida and the Gulf 
Stream raising the Atlantic temperature off the east- 
ern shore, there is no such thing as "a nipping and an 
eager air." Nature wears summer clothes all the year 
round. See how it is at the spot marked 25 on our 
map — it is at Palm Beach, near the famous palace- 
hotels to which our millionaires flock while snow is 
flying in the North. 

Position 25* Cocoanut trees in the wliite sands 
at I*alm I>each, JFla. 

Again we are en an island, separated from the main- 
land by another lagoon known as Lake Worth. The 
ground under your feet is almost all pure white sand, 
the remains of pulverized coral and coquina shells. It 
seems almost incredible that such vigorous and prolific 
tree-growth can be fed on sand and air and water, 
but you see for yourself how these cocoanut palms thrive 
on the diet. How full those trees hang with their crop 
of close-packed nuts ! Each of those brownish husks 
that you see now was originally part of a flower, blos- 
soming in the shelter of a leaf-stalk. Everybody knows 
how the nuts look, but not everybody realizes that the 
firm white pulp and the "milk" inside are the tree's 
provision for feeding its own young. Each nut contains 
the embryo of a new tree, and, if not interfered with, the 
germinating plant would absorb that meat and milk 
during the interval before becoming able to feed on 
sand, water and Palm Beach's sunshiny air. 

We will move westward now to where you see our 
twenty-sixth position marked at New Orleans beside 
the Mississippi. 

Position 25. Map 1 



NEW ORLEANS 47 

Position 26. The sweetest spot on earth -sugar 
levee beside the Mississippi, Xetv Orleans, La. 

Thousands of square miles of the low ground all 
around where we stand are practicall} 7 the w r ork of the 
river whose w r aters you see yonder — one of the longest 
rivers in the world. Century after century, age after 
age, its waters have been tearing off soil from the 
banks beside its long road and bringing it down here. 
Accumulations of such mud have grown and grown 
until Mother Nature owns here in southern Louisiana 
immense tracts of "made" land with enormous produc- 
tive possibilities. The very first distinctly successful 
sugar plantation in the country w r as here at New Or- 
leans, where soil and climate are specially favorable 
to the cane. Now this particular levee on which we 
stand is one of the principal distributing points for our 
country's enormous sugar supply — about five billion 
pounds. The cane raised here in Louisiana averages 
from ten to twelve per cent sugar ; cultivation has made 
it vastly richer in sugar than the original cane first 
imported. The cane is ground at mills on the planta- 
tions, extracting seventy-five to ninety-five per cent of 
their sugar. The extracted juice is chemically treated 
to purify and clarify it, and then artificial evaporation 
reduces the sugar to crystalline form ready for ship- 
ment to refineries. 

If you would like to know the poetic and romantic 
side of life in the Louisiana lowlands where this sugar ^ 
comes from, George W. Cable's Bonaventure will give 
you real pleasure. The story of simple Acadian life is 
a masterpiece in its own way. 

All the way from here up to Memphis (about five 
hundred miles) steamers like those out there in the 
stream move up and down between continuous lines of 

Position 26. Map I 



48 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

levees or protected banks. The original cost of the 
work was enormous, but it has proven its value. In 
1882 freshets damaged almost six hundred miles of 
bank. Ten years later less than two miles suffered 
in the same districts. The engineering work has been 
done according to plans prepared by a special United 
States Government Commission. 

If we should continue our journey up the Mississippi, 
the valleys of the great Ohio river and its tributaries 
would beckon us up into regions full of attraction, 
whether it is landscape beauty or the human note that 
most appeals to us. In our flying tour we can make 
but few stops. Let one be up among the mountains 
of eastern Tennessee. Our position is marked there 
on the general map. 

Position 27. Confederate signal station, Lookout 
Mountain, Chattanooga, Tenn. 

You are looking nearly north. The Tennessee river 
down there, just swinging around the western curve of 
the "Moccasin Bend," is three hundred feet below you. 
The long, level ridge straight ahead is Raccoon Moun- 
tain, with Walden Ridge beyond. The city of Chatta- 
nooga is farther to the east (right) than you can see 
at this moment, beyond the east side of the Moccasin 
Bend; Missionary Ridge is still farther away at the 
east, beyond the town. The battlefield of Chicka- 
mauga, where more than thirty-three thousand brave 
men died in '63, is about seven miles away at your right. 

When the Chattanooga campaign began (August 
1863) the Confederate forces under Bragg occupied 
Chattanooga and the Federal forces under Rosecrans 
were established along the base of the Cumberland 

Position 27. Map I 



LOOKOUT MOUNTAIN 49 

mountains, beyond Walden Eidge over there at the 
north. Crittenton's corps of the Federal army came 
down over Eaccoon Eidge. The Confederate forces were 
holding this height where you stand. Hooker led a Fed- 
eral assault on this point, bringing his men up the steep 
wooded slopes one November morning while this whole 
ground was covered by a thick cloud, that swept low 
in the sky and wrapped itself around the mountain. 
All the forenoon the mist was so thick up here that 
people down in that valley below could only hear the 
sound of cannon and musketry, with now and then 
a fleeting glimpse of the men who were firing. The 
Federal victory gained up here went into history as 
'"the battle above the clouds." 

The stories written by Mary Murfree ("Charles Eg- 
bert Craddock") give a most faithful idea of life 
among the country people up in this mountainous east 
end of the state, and neighboring regions. See, for 
instance her Where the Battle was Fought, The Prophet 
of the Great Smoky Mountains, In the Tennessee Moun- 
tains, etc. 

This part of the country (the Chattanooga region) 
has been greatly developed in a business way since 
war times. Business enterprise and commercial pros- 
perity have strikingly increased. And the growth of 
the Mississippi river towns has been tremendous. Let 
us find our next outlook in the most important river- 
side city on the whole length of the Mississippi. 

Position 28. Street scene in the largest city of 
the Mississippi Valley, St, Louis, 31o. 

You are facing north up Broadway from the corner 
of Chestnut Street. The river is about half a mile 



Positions 27, 28. lilap 1 



50 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

away at your right. The built-up part of the city ex- 
tends more than five miles along the river. Its whole 
area (including a number of beautiful parks of which 
St. Louis people have a right to be proud) is over six- 
ty square miles. This is one of the most important 
business districts, where you are now. The Custom 
House and the Post Office are only a few blocks away, 
ahead at the left; the City Hall and the huge union 
railway station are a little farther off. 

The growth of this place in a little over one hundred 
years has been something almost incredible. When 
papers were signed here at St. Louis in 1804, confirm- 
ing the Louisiana Purchase from France, it was only 
a shabby little frontier village, the outgrowth of a 
trading post for traffic with Indians. And for a good 
many years life in St. Louis and the neighbor towns 
was like what Mark Twain described in those boy-stor- 
ies of his about Tom Sawyer and Huckleberry Finn, 

Winston Churchill's deservedly popular novel, The 
Crisis includes graphic picturing of life here, in the 
days just before the Civil War. 

Today more than half a million people are earning 
a living here. Over twenty railway lines from dif- 
ferent parts of the country pull in here to a common 
centre ; some bring enormous quantities of grain, others 
beef and pork, food-stuffs seemingly enough to feed half 
the world. For a good many years the city grew chief- 
ly because of the way in which such raw material poured 
in, to be handled and re-shipped to other parts of the 
w r orld; manufactured goods of all sorts from the east- 
ern states were received here in return and sent out 
all through the middle-west and to the Pacific. But 
St. Louis has outgrown that stage of development and 
taken up also all sorts of manufacturing industries for 

Position 28. Map 1 



ST. LOUIS 51 

herself, so that she is no longer dependent on the east. 
Whereas a generation ago the shoes that trod these 
streets were made of leather tanned and cut and sewed 
by Massachusetts wage-earners, to-day St. Louis itself 
is one of the largest shoe-manufacturing centres in the 
world. And what is true of shoes is true of agricultural 
tools and machinery. It is true of wooden furniture. 
It is true of ready made clothing. Much of the money 
spent in St. Louis shops for a host of such every-day 
necessities is now poured back into the weekly pay- 
envelopes of St. Louis factory-workers. And, because 
the factories are continually enlarging and multiplying, 
young men and women from the country are coming 
here in steady streams, settling here and marrying and 
increasing the count of the population. It will not be 
many decades before a round million will call the 
place home. 

Now let us get a sight of the transportation facilities 
that have helped make it possible for two or three 
dingy log huts full of evil-smelling buffalo-pelts to 
grow into a large, modern business centre. We will 
take our stand on the eastern bank of the Mississippi 
just opposite St. Louis, and look back westwards to 
its water-front. 



Position 29. Ten million dollar bridge 2500 feet 
long, ivest over the dlississippi at St, Louis 

The river is sweeping southward (left). That stern- 
wheel steamer is headed up-stream. When the first 
trading post w T as established here Indian canoes were 
the only craft on the river; indeed, the only way of 
crossing from one bank to the other was by means 



Position 29, Map 1 



52 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

of canoes. At that time no such bridge-construction as 
this had been devised by any human brain. There 
was no such thing as a railway, a steamboat, a tele- 
graph or a telephone, to say nothing of wireless com- 
munication and the mastery of the air. Then came 
the stage of development which Mark Twain immortal- 
ized in his Life on the Mississippi and a good many 
short sketches. (You remember he was for a time a 
pilot on one of the river steamers, and the pen-name 
by which the world best knows him is a technical phrase 
used by a man taking soundings to determine the 
depth of the channel.) Now that one city over there on 
the west bank has miles of river frontage where freight- 
ers are continually loading and unloading, and you 
can see for yourself at this moment how the lower 
level of this gigantic bridge is filled with freight cars 
rolling across over the river, part of an almost ceaseless 
procession of carriers. 

The bridge itself is worth close study if you are 
interested in the marvelous side of every-day things. 
Men began with iron-ore in the breast of the earth, 
mixed with all sorts of mineral impurities. (See Posi- 
tion 75.) The metal was separated, refined, trans- 
formed into steel. (See Positions 79-80.) Each curve 
of those four parallel arches is made of steel tubes 
nine inches in diameter. Each section of tube is 
in itself straight, but the wedge-plates by which they 
are connected gradually transform their combined 
lines into the majestic curves, which sustain tremendous 
weight above and transfer the pressure to immense piers 
bedded deep below the bottom of the river. There is 
not much beauty in a single piece of such steel tubes 
and girders, but the bridge as a whole is a genuinely 
beautiful creation. Eads, the engineer who designed it, 

Position 2% Map l 



AN ARIZONA CATTLE RANCH 53 

is known all over the earth by men who know any- 
thing about steel construction. 

The thousands of live cattle that are shipped east 
through St. Louis, the tons of beef that pass over the 
Eads bridge in refrigerator cars, the acres of leather 
cut up and sewed together every year in St. Louis 
factories — these come in large part from the ranches 
of our sunny southwest. Everybody has read stories of 
cowboy life in Arizona and New Mexico. Would you 
like to see the real thing — real cowboys at their excit- 
ing business? Then move on to southern Arizona, 
where the number 30 is marked on our general map of 
the country. 

Position 30. Among the thirty thousand cattle at 
Sierra Bonita ranch— roping a yearling. Arizona 

To anyone brought up in a hill-country these end- 
less levels may have something homesick about them; 
yet w T hen the "tenderfoot" has outlived the homesick 
period he often learns to take solid satisfaction in the 
very bigness and openness which at first oppressed him. 
It is easy to see why a cowboy must be able to stick to 
his horse all day long and ride as if he were a part of 
the four-legged creature. Only the man with an auto- 
mobile craze covers long distances with such unconcern 
as the fellows on a ranch like this, where miles are 
reckoned as lightly as the New England farmer reck- 
ons rods. 

Early summer is the time of the annual "round-up" 
or taking account of stock. Without such a yearly 
reckoning a rancher could make only wild guesses at 
the amount of his property. Gathering in the stock 
scattered over pastures that cover as much ground as 

Position 30, Map I 



54 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

three or four New England counties is no small "stunt." 
These men on the tough little ponies have been scour- 
ing the range to drive in cattle that have wandered 
far afield and to cut out (i. e. to sort or separate) those 
bearing different brands of ownership. Lack of respect 
for another man's brand is — well, everybody knows 
western sentiment towards a cattle thief, large or small ! 
The calves, — arrivals since the last round-up — must be 
cut out from the rest of the herd and branded like 
their elders. Common custom leaves it to the mother 
cow to identify her own child. Her testimony would 
be accepted in opposition to a man's oath. 

The cowboy's skill with his lariat is world-famous. 
A coil of rope has just been flung by the sure hand of 
that nearest horseman, and a noose at the farther end 
has caught that surprised beast at the left exactly as 
he meant it should. (Of course, you realize that we 
are using an instantaneous stereograph. It was less 
than a second that the cowboy and the young steer 
stayed in just the positions where you see them now!) 
The rope will next be given a few sharp turns around 
the saddle-horn, and the pony, understanding his own 
share in the business, will proceed energetically to 
yank the protesting captive over to a red-hot branding 
iron that is ready for him: — an unattractive prospect, 
that's a fact, but it does not hurt long. 

The round-up season means need of a good many 
extra ponies; the distances covered would make too 
severe a demand on animals that can do the ordinary 
routine work all right. This necessitates some inter- 
esting performances in breaking to saddle the green 
animals that have been running as wild as young steers. 
Breaking bronchos is a trade in itself. The work of 
a professional "broncho-buster" is not recommended as 



Position 30. Map I 



AN ARIZONA CATTLE RANCH 55 

a pleasant sight for nervous women. It probably does 
include some rough handling that is not strictly neces- 
sary and that merely adds to the spectacular effect ; but 
perhaps the man who keeps his own life in peril every 
minute of the day ought to be pardoned just a streak 
of savagery mixed with the fun of showing off before 
the rest. And naturally nobody means to do serious 
harm to a horse while breaking him. Every horse is 
worth money. 

A great many people know Owen Wister's story, The 
Virginian, with its cowboy hero. The scene of the 
novel was laid up north a good way from here, but the 
life Owen Wister describes has a good deal in common 
with life on a ranch like this one; E. Hough's Story 
of the Coivloy is another interesting study of this kind 
of life out in the open. 

Tourists by the southern overland route flock from 
the trains at Arizona and New Mexico stations to buy 
baskets and pottery from Indian vendors, but they 
never see genuinely primitive Indian life. To do that 
you must leave the railroads behind and take to the 
wilderness. The spot in northeastern Arizona marked 
31 is one of the places where you can get a glimpse of 
the real thing. 

Position 31. At hreah fast— typical desert liorne 
of Kara jo Indians. Arizona 

We are facing towards Flagstaff, about fifty miles 
away beyond those level reaches of yellowish desert 
sand. 

These Navajos are only temporarily encamped here; 
near-by in the other direction is a gully with a supply 
of water. Those poplar poles that form the frame of 



Positions 30, 31. Map 1 



56 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

their hogan or wigwam were dragged here by ponies 
over the desert. The thatch is sagebrush and coarse, 
wiry grass. It seems amazing that any vegetation at 
all can thrive on such meagre food, but this family 
actually do raise beans and even dwarf corn right in 
the sand, and they keep a few sheep feeding on the 
grass in the nearest gully. When the scanty pasturage 
fails, it is no very serious matter to pull the hogan to 
pieces and move on to a new r location. As you see, there 
is not much furniture to be moved — a few casks and 
water-pots and baskets (they trade with the Hopis for 
their baskets), some rugs and blankets, and the rough, 
home-made loom of which you get a glimpse inside the 
hogan — those are about all. Their sheep furnish wool 
which they spin themselves with a distaff, but they buy 
at some trading post whatever more they need — gaudily 
dyed Germantown yarns, dye-stuffs and the heavy cot- 
ton yarn used for long warp threads in their blankets. 
They buy at the traders' too most of the cheap cotton 
and woolen material which is used for their own clothes. 
Some trading-post or other is always within reach, and 
gay calico or shoddy factory goods can always be had 
in exchange for blankets of their own weaving. Some- 
times a squaw like this nearest one will bargain at the 
post for a few yards of gorgeous print, a needle and 
thread, sit down on the ground outside the trader's 
building, tear off the breadths of a new gown, and sew 
them up on the spot ; so that she may put on her fresh 
finery and wear it home! They do not pay much at- 
tention out here to the very latest costume designs in 
the Ladies' Home Journal. 

When they have raised all the corn and beans that 
unfriendly nature will permit, and winter is coming on, 
these folks will pitch their camp once more in a shel- 

Position 3L Map 1 



NAVAJO INDIANS 57 

tered location, hollowing out the ground so deeply that 
about half the height of the hogan is below ground- 
level. They will put on an extra thick thatch of sage 
brush and plaster over that a thick coat of mud 
(adobe) making the roof-walls weather-proof. Then 
the shelter will be really not half bad if you do not 
care about ventilation,* — and these people don't. 

Anthropologists say that Navajos like these are not 
the original occupants of this land of desert and sky 
but belong naturally much farther north, up nearer the 
Great Lakes. A good many centuries ago (nobody 
knows just w T hen or why) their ancestors migrated this 
way, and their mode of living has been gradually trans- 
formed. They cannot keep up the hunting traditions of 
their far-off grandsires because there is almost nothing 
to hunt. They long ago learned from other tribes here- 
abouts how to weave clothing to take the place of skins, 
and the spread of white men's civilization has given 
them some other ideas about clothes and food — unfor- 
tunately about drink too ! There are in all some fifteen 
thousand Xavajos in the country today, practically all 
living on one large reservation here in Arizona. 

F. S. Dellenbaugh's North Americans of Yesterday 
gives interesting and reliable information about the 
Indians of the southwest. 

Much older inhabitants of this part of the country 
are the various tribes of "Pueblo" or village-dwelling 
Indians. The early Spanish explorers of New Mexico 
and Arizona described the curious native towns as 
"pueblos" and the name has clung to them to this day. 
You can see a typical pueblo for yourself by pushing 
on through the Navajo reservation into a Hopi reserva- 
tion. Our next two positions (32 and 33) are set down 
on the general map. 

Position 31. Map I 



58 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

Position 32. South to picturesque Wolpi, a mesa 
village of Mopi Indians. Arizona 

It is the vast Painted Desert of northeastern Ari- 
zona that you see stretching away to meet the sky in 
that far off horizon line. You are some seventy miles 
north of the nearest station on the Santa Fe railway 
line; to reach here the ordinary traveler has to make 
his way over the picturesque, arid waste on horseback 
or in a wagon. 

Nowhere else in the world save in our own south- 
western states could you find such a curious landscape 
as this — a great desert plain, flat yellow gray sand 
under a bell of blue, blue sky, and fiat-topped rocky 
hills, with purple shadows in their hollows, rising here 
and there from the sandy level like bluff-walled islands 
standing up out of the sea. They call such an island 
height a "mesa." In old times nearly seventy such 
mesas in the land which we now call Arizona and New 
Mexico had each its Indian village or pueblo, and some 
of the pueblos were said to be rich. Cortez's men, away 
down in Mexico, heard from the Mexicans wonderful 
yarns about "cities" far up here in the interior where 
there was wealth of silver and jewels to be had for 
the stealing — or at least for stealing plus some amount 
of murdering, such as the Spanish pirate explorers of 
those days were well accustomed to practice. One won- 
ders now whether maybe the Mexicans did not inten- 
tionally exaggerate the stories of splendor beyond the 
wilderness, in order to induce the avaricious and blood- 
thirsty Europeans to move on ! 

This village for example, would have given white 
invaders some trouble before it was captured. You 
can see how its mud-plastered stone houses are packed 
closely together on the summit of almost vertical cliffs. 



Position 32 Map I. 



A MESA VILLAGE — PAINTED DESERT 59 

The idea of concentration and defense seems to have 
guided the original home-makers here, nobody knows 
how many centuries ago. The men you find here just 
now in those cheap and commonplace clothes are a 
curious mixture of the twentieth century with far- 
back, forgotten ages. Their many-times-great-grand- 
sires were lords of the land, centuries before Columbus 
sailed westward to find the treasures of India. 

Life out here is "simple" in one sense, yet by no 
means easy. The corn and beans and pumpkins which 
are needed for winter supplies have to be coaxed into 
growth near some water-supply in a gully of the desert. 
Sheep have to be tended. Water has to be brought 
oftentimes a tiresome distance, and jars for carrying 
water have themselves to be made and fired. Firewood 
is scanty and precious; weary miles have sometimes to 
be traversed in this part of the country to find timber. 
The big, tightly sewed or woven baskets which the 
women of this tribe make out of grass and tough yucca 
stems serve a dozen kinds of purpose — some big ones are 
used instead of carts or w r heelbarrows, for carrying 
loads; others of various sizes and shapes correspond 
to our barrels and buckets, jars and store-room boxes — 
they hold quantities of corn and beans for cold-weather 
dinners. Still others are for serving the dinner itself 
when one dish suffices for a whole family. Baskets are 
out here servants-of-all-work. With a .few wooden spoons 
to supplement them, they answer the purpose of pretty 
nearly a whole "kitchen-department" section in our 
own city shops. 

In a land like this, where the scanty crops are even 

more than commonly dependent on the help of timely 

f rains, it is easv to understand how the natural instinct 



Position 32. Map I 



60 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

toward religion has developed elaborate ceremonials for 
securing the favor of the Spirits of the Kain. At an- 
other mesa in this same district, a few miles from 
Wolpi, you can see the men of the pueblo performing 
one of their sacred rain dances in the month of June. 

Position £,>. The Katchina dance to the rain-god 
—Hopi Indians at Shonghopavi, Arizon a 

These dancers are all men; the performance, gro- 
tesque as it seems, is really in its way a prayer for favor- 
able weather. Those queerly hideous masks of leather 
and felt which the men wear are painted with blotches 
and streaks of red, green and white expressly for this 
one ceremony ; when they are to be used next year they 
will be painted over again. The wearing of them makes 
the men in a vague sense personify certain supernatural 
beings — subordinate, intercessory gods who control the 
coming of the rain. It is extremely difficult to get at 
the exact idea, partly because of barriers of speech and 
partly because the ceremony has an intentionally secret 
element. The men taking part in it are practically 
members of a secret order, bound to a great deal of 
reserve about the significance of what they do. Each 
village of this sort has a Tciwa or council chamber in 
which members of the order meet at regular intervals — 
a sort of lodge-room whose affairs are never discussed 
with the uninitiated. 

Those figures embroidered on the cotton kilts are in 
one way and another symbolic of clouds, thunder and 
lightning and other accompaniments of the rain. The 
head dresses flapping above the painted masks are a 
fantastic conglomeration of turkey feathers, spruce 
twigs and shell ornaments. Each dancer, you notice, 
wears a fox-skin dangling from his belt behind. 

Position 33. Map t 



• 



THE HOPI INDIAN EAIN DANCE 61 

The motion of the dance is chiefly a quick up-and- 
down step, facing first one way and then the other and 
swaying back and forth, all in time to "music" of their 
own production. Part of it they make by rattling small 
pebbles inside those dried gourds which they have in 
their hands, and part by the rattling of dried sheeps' 
hoofs inside turtle shells, which are fastened to their 
ankles. 

You can see now quite plainly how the houses are 
built in two or even three stories, with rough ladders 
to give access to the upper rooms. The windows that 
you see here in some of the ground floor rooms are re- 
cent innovations; the older custom was to wall-in the 
ground floor without any doors or windows in the side, 
providing a trap-door in the flat roof and using the 
lower rooms for storage. The upper rooms were used 
for every-day living. A man could ascend his ladder, 
pull the ladder up after him, and then be quite isolated, 
so far as concerned an enemy from outside the village — 
in short the house was made to repeat the idea of the 
mesa on which it stood, with bare rocky walls and an 
inhabited top. Such a place could be successfully de- 
fended for a long time if food and water were suf- 
ficient. 

Studies of this and other religious ceremonies of 
the Hopi folk, made by J. W. Fewkes, w r ere published 
by the U. S. Government in the sixteenth annual re- 
port of the Bureau of Ethnology, Washington, D. C. 

Consult our general map once more, and you find 
that less than one hundred miles west of the Hopi In- 
dian reservation in Arizona is the* famous Canyon of 
the Colorado river. We will go first to the brink of one 

Position 33. Map 1 



52 T HE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

of the branches of the Grand Canyon, and look across 
the gorge to its northern rim. 

Position 34. Fathoming depths of a vanished 

river— G-rand Canyon from Hance's Cove, Arizona 

The stone which that tourist is about to fling off 
into space may fall a full thousand feet before it 
touches anything but invisible air. It almost makes 
one's head swim to peer over, as we are doing now, into 
this astounding chasm, this huge, ragged rent of the 
world's rocky flesh. The gorge directly below you, far 
down beyond those terraces dotted with scrubby trees, 
is only an arm of the Canyon proper; that creek is 
often dry in midsummer. The waters you see there 
now are hurrying down to still lower levels in the bed 
of the Colorado itself, over beyond that cuiiously ter- 
raced butte at the right. You do not at this moment see 
far enough downwards to get any gleam from the 
Colorado. Its waters are actually a vertical mile below 
this bank where you stand. Think of the distance of 
a mile on some familiar piece of level ground. Imagine 
that distance standing on end. So far down, down, 
down in the bottom of that gigantic sculptured V are 
at this minute the floods of the river. And the top of 
the V spreads wider than you first think possible; the 
Arizona atmosphere is deceptive. It is really more than 
twelve miles from this bank here over to where you see 
the opposite rim standing sharp-cut against that love- 
ly sky. And still more difficult to believe is the fact 
that every inch of these enormous terraces was worn 
away long ago by the action of running water. 

President Jordan of Stanford University explains 
the river's work in this way : — 

Position 34. Map I 



THE GRAND CANYON 63 

"While mountains were folding 2nd continents tak- 
ing form, this land lay beneath a warm and shallow 
sea, an extension of the present Gulf of California. 
For centuries untold its sands piied up, layer on layer. 
When at last the uplift of the Sierras changed the 
sands to dry land then the forces of erosion began and 
the sands were torn away. 

"A mile or more in vertical depth has been stripped 
away, leaving only fiat-topped buttes here and there to 
testify to the depth of the ancient strata. The flinty 
limestones, halt-way down, interposed their resistance. 
The swift river from the glacial mountains, which had 
done this work, narrowed its bounds, and applied itself 
more strictly to its business. Cutting at last through 
the flinty stone, it made quick work of the shales be- 
neath it, and, dropping from level to level, it is now 
at work on the granite core of the earth at the bottom." 

Major (J. E.) PowelPs book on the Canyons of the 
Colorado gives thrilling accounts of the very first com- 
plete exploration of this astounding river-gorge. F. S. 
Dellenbaugh, who accompanied Powell on a later excur- 
sion and who has since become the leading authority 
on the subject, has written a fascinating volume of his 
own called The Romance of the Colorado River. 

Suppose we go down into the Canyon itself by one of 
the narrow, crooked, steep (terrifyingly narrow and 
6teep) trails, where a horse almost needs claws to stick 
into the ground in "order to save himself and his rider 
from pitching head-first into the gulf beneath. The 
1 necessary zigzagging multiplies the straight distance 
from rim to river-bed into something many times as 
long. If you stand beside the river near where 'Pipe 
Creek enters, and face up-stream, you get an extraor- 
dinary view which the earth can hardly match elsewhere. 

Position 35. Beside the Colorado, looking east up 
to Zoroaster Tower, Grand Canyon, Arizona 

The Bright Angel hotel, where so many tourists stay, 
is about a mile up in the sky over your right shoulder. 
Directly behind you rise steep rock-terraces and ragged 

Positions 34, 35. Map 1 



(34 THE UNITED STATES THEOUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

cliffs like those which you see ahead. You might easily 
fancy yourself beside a stream walled-ixi by mountains; 
it is hard for the mind to realize that this is precisely 
the reverse of mountain scenery. What look like moun- 
tain peaks (and indeed in many parts of the United 
States a height of those dimensions would be spoken 
of as a "mountain") are only jagged lumps or knobs 
projecting from the walls of the Canyon — masses of 
rock that for some reason resisted the wear-and-tear of 
the ancient river-currents and so were not torn away 
and ground into gravel like the more yielding rock 
all around them. At this moment we cannot see far 
enough upward to get a sight of the rim of the Canyon 
away up above those curiously carved monuments of 
stubborn stone. 

It was only in 1889 that white men first had the 
personal courage plus the scientific enthusiasm to ex- 
plore this gloomily splendid crevice in the earth's crust. 
Major Powell's narrative of his first voyage of explora- 
tion is full of surprises, hardships, hair-breadth escapes 
and perils that could not be escaped at all but had to 
be met. The current in some places runs twenty miles 
an hour. At that time not a living soul knew what 
might be found around the next turn of the winding 
river-bed. There are cataracts, rapids, whirlpools be- 
yond count. You can see, by the rock-strewn shore at 
your feet, that the stream right here must sometimes be 
considerably wider and higher than it is now, for most 
of these loose stones were brought here during a freshet 
season and dropped temporarily when the volume of 
water had dwindled. The sight of those loose frag- 
ments of rock reminds us too what quantities of such 
material the river ages ago must have used, as it swept 
along cutting away the banks and using the debris from 

Position 35. Map 1 



SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA 65 

one cutting to help do still more cutting. What an un- 
thinkable amount of time and force have been expended 
in getting our planet ready for the uses it serves today ! 
In addition to the volumes by Powell and Dellen- 
baugh, mentioned at Position 34, those who take this 
journey will find George Wharton Edwards' In and 
around the Grand Canyon a most enjoyable book. It 
is all the more interesting when one has already seen 
the place as we are seeing it now.* 

Continuing a journey westward from the Grand 
Canyon, if one goes by railway in the usual manner 
there are long and dreary wastes of arid land to cross 
before a traveler reaches the mountains of southern 
California. (See the map). Greedy things — those 
mountains ! They reach as far as their rocky arms can 
reach up into the sky, seize upon all the moisture-laden 
air that blows over from the Pacific, squeeze the rain 
out of the clouds and put it in the deep pockets of their 
Alpine lakes and springs. Years ago they used to waste 
much of the little they professed to give back to the 
land on the western side, towards the sea ; much of that 
region used to be only arid, sun-baked plain fit for noth- 
ing more than poor pasturage. But now see what has 
been done with once worthless ground at the town of 
Riverside. 

Position 36. Picking oranges in one of the fa- 
mous groves at Hiverside, Col. 

About 1870 you could have bought all the land you 

♦To get a much fuller experience of the Grand Canyon 
than can be secured through these two outlooks, take the 
full tour. The Grand Canyon through the Stereoscope, eigh- 
teen positions with a special local guidebook including two 
» patent maps. 

Position 36. Map I 



66 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

wanted around here for three to four dollars an acre. 
Today if you offered two thousand dollars an acre you 
would have your offer promptly refused. The trans- 
formation of this region into a marvel of productive- 
ness is one of the famous triumphs of modern scientific 
agriculture. The soil was good; what it needed, in 
this climate of long, rainless summers, was simply water. 
Irrigation canals brought water from the Santa Ana 
river and — behold ! — the desert immediately rejoiced 
and proceeded to "blossom as the rose." Now the 
irrigation enterprises planned and carried out in Cali- 
fornia and the neighbor states are actually creating a 
new earth. Gigantic dams far up in the mountains at 
this, that and the other point have been made to turn 
lop-sided, leaky valleys into huge safe-deposit vaults 
for the storage of a whole year's rain, ready to be drawn 
off hundreds of miles away, just where and when the 
farms and fruit-orchards need it. 

The oranges raised here are practically all of the 
navel or seedless variety; the trees are descendants of 
stock budded from two Brazilian trees with which a 
Riverside man experimented less than forty years ago. 
At that time the United States bought a great many 
oranges from Sicily and southern Italy. Now the home- 
grown fruit is so good, and Congress has so favored our 
fruit-growers by putting prohibitive duties on foreign 
grown oranges, that the business has grown to a size 
which would have been beyond belief a generation ago. 
Riverside alone produces every season over two million 
dollars worth of these fragrant golden balls full of 
luscious juice. 

This is a region of beautiful homes and luxurious 
comfort, for those who have had both capital and execu- 

PosHion 36. Map / 



SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA G7 

five ability for taking advantage of the alluring possi- 
bilities of the region. Let us have one more prospect 
over another celebrated place below the San Bernar- 
dino mountains. You are to look off from what used 
to be a barren sandy ridge — now a bowery mass of roses 
and shrubbery. They call it out here a "converted 
mountain." 

Position 37* Hedlands audits wealth of orange 
groves from Smiley Heights, Cal. 

Here again, where those long lines of orange trees 
grow, there used to be between May and December 
nothing but hopelessly dry dirt. Now pipes are laid 
systematically through the ground, and land owners 
receive water just as house ow r ners receive gas or elec- 
tricity in their homes. True, there have been heart 
breaking tragedies here in southern California, growing 
out of the failure of water companies or out of^.reed and 
craft and plotting of the shrewd to despoil those less 
shrewd or less well armed for a legal fight. And there 
is a good deal of southern California which has not 
yet been reclaimed from its barren first estate. Not 
everybody has the capital which is the nest-egg of 
Pacific Coast prosperity. But it looks as if, in time, 
pretty nearly all the Pacific Coast valleys would be 
turned into flowery Paradise for some lucky men or 
other. The people who lead affairs now find no new 
invention or appliance too good for them. Their houses 
have the very latest system of electric lighting; their 
automobiles of the very latest American or French 
design speed over boulevards of model construction. 
Life here has begun with standards of luxury which the 
east reached only after three centuries of gradual and 
tiresome advance. 



Position 37. Map 1 



(3g THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

Eoses like these on the bushes at your feet bloom 
gaily in mid-winter while Chicago, New York and Bos- 
ton are being swept by blizzards. — Well, not everybody 
can live in southern California, so why be envious? 

Eastern people do not often realize how near our 
country came to being a part of the kingdom of Spain. 
We saw reminders of the old Spanish ownership in 
Florida (Position 22) ; we come across more along the 
Pacific borders, where Spanish and Portuguese ships 
went sailing by in the sixteenth century times of 
Queen Elizabeth. About the time when our great 
Revolutionary war was keeping the eastern colonies 
bus}', Spanish missionaries from Mexico toiled north- 
wards through the wilderness, and established at several 
different places along the California coast little settle- 
ments of brethren commissioned to teach the Indian na- 
tives the doctrines of the Faith. Our map marks at 
Santa Barbara the spot where we are to take our next 
position on the grounds of one of those old Spanish 
Missions. 

Position 38. A pleasant retreat from the world— 

Santa Barbara Mission Gardens, Cal. 

The building at the left with those twin towers and 
the cross-marked gable is a church which Franciscan 
monks built about 1786. The other building at right 
angles to it is where a goodly family of Franciscan 
monks used to live; now their numbers have dwindled, 
and only a few wearers of the ancient habit, like the 
one you see over there by the fountain, remain to do the 
honors of what was once a really impressive religious 
and industrial institution. Some of the brethren here 
have always been expert farmers and gardeners, and in 

position 38. Map I 



BIO TREES OF CALIFORNIA (59 

old times they taught the Indians around here all they 
knew about raising grain and fruits. They introduced 
sheep.-raising too, and from them the children of the 
soil learned how to spin and weave, as well as how to 
pray to the white men's God. 

Helen Hunt Jackson's celebrated Indian romance, 
Ramondj is a story whose scene was laid not far from 
this very Mission. A number of Mrs. Gertrude Ather- 
ton's best stories have their scenes laid in this California 
country. 

California is "American" to the last degree in the 
matter of turning her natural endowment as successful- 
ly as possible into cash. When we remember it was 
the discovery of her gold fields that first called large 
numbers of colonists from the older states, it is natural 
enough that the dollar measure should today be as con- 
spicuously emphasized in this western Paradise as it is 
in the grimy commercial centres of Chicago and St. 
Louis and New York. Fortunately for all the world 
certain groves of California's famous "Big Trees" have 
been set apart safe from the despoiling steel of lumber- 
men; but outside those forbidden groves giants a thou- 
sand years old are being systematically laid low in order 
that a few men of short lived human-kind may increase 
their bank-accounts. The tall sequoia grows at its best 
only here near the Pacific, on ground four to six thous* 
and feet above sea-level, so we shall move inland now 
(see the general map) to a point on a western slope of 
the Sierra Nevadas where the lumber business is "boom- 
in S -" 

Position SO. A monster Sequoia just felled in 
grove at Converse Basin, Cal. 

More than two hundred feet tall this superb column 

Position 39. Map 1 



70 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

stood, anchored fast through the centuries by roots 
running ever deeper and farther through the virgin 
soil. You see now only part of its length, for work is 
in progress for taking off the limbs and reducing the 
upper part of the trunk to sections of a size that can 
be transported. All sorts of transportation contrivances 
are in use in a lumber-camp like this, — long strings of 
mules, traction engines with huge wheels, flumes where 
logs shoot two or three miles down a mountain-side. 
There is a profitable market for every foot of first class 
lumber which comes into a dealer's hands out here in 
the Pacific coast country. The towns are growing so 
fast that ownership of land covered with tall, straight, 
firm-grained trees like this is almost as good as owner- 
ship of a gleam of gold in the bed of a creek. 

Look at the immense diameter of that trunk now, 
where relentless saws have ended a process of growth 
centuries older than American history. It took all the 
sap that could be spared in a year to add to this tree's 
girth a new layer of wood the thickness of a sheet of 
pasteboard. You can figure the years out for yourself 
if you like. Certainly this must have been a beautiful, 
live thing, reaching up into the California sunshine 
and swaying in the California wind, while European 
civilization was still in the clumsy, rough-and-tumble 
conditions of the Dark Ages, and long before anybody 
in Europe suspected the existence of America at all. 

The biggest of all the California trees are in park 
reservations. On the way to Yosemite in the east-cen- 
tral part of the state (see the location of the number 
40 on our general map) the Mariposa grove is where 
most tourists go to see what nature can do when she 



Position 39. Map / 



WAWONA — MARIPOSA GROVE 71 

sets out to produce monumental marvels in living cell 
and fibre. 



Position 40. Wawona as we drove through it- 
tree 27 o feet tall in Mariposa Grove, Cat. 

One of the regulation items on a tourist's program 
is to drive in this way directly through the base of 
this living monument. The passage, cut to let the 
stage-road pass through, is twenty-seven feet long, ten 
feet high and almost ten feet wide even where it narrows 
at the top. One might think at first it would be a 
serious harm to the tree, but Wawona does not seem 
to mind the hurt any more than an African savage 
minds having big holes made in his ear lobes. (To tell 
the truth, a good many people feel that the chopping 
of this hole through the tree trunk was, as regards 
taste, a performance about on a par with the African's 
ear ornamentation; but once done it cannot be undone, 
any more than the docking of a horse's tail.) 

That overcoat of bark, more than a foot thick, is a 
sort of cinnamon-brown in color. The tree's branches, 
the nearest one something more than a hundred feet 
above your head, bear evergreen foliage and cones. The 
topmost boughs are two hundred and seventy-five feet 
above this roadway. If you know the height of some 
church steeple near home you can get a more realizing 
sense of this particular giant's stature. And Wawona 
has plenty of company. In this one grove alone there 
are more than a hundred such giants, many of them 
with trunks almost half as thick again as this shaft 
where the coach passes through. 

Fifteen miles beyond this Big Tree grove the stage- 



Posltloa 40. Map I 



72 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

route takes you to the marvelous ground of Yosemite 
valley. 

Position 41. El Capitan, a granite cliff thirty- 
three hundred feet high, Yosemite Valley, Cat. 

You are facing nearly northwest. San Francisco and 
the Pacific are about one hundred and seventy miles 
away at the west, i. e. off at your left. As you stand 
here now you are on a shelf of ground near the floor 
of one of the most extraordinary river valleys on earth. 
Eight behind you rise the craggy, partly wooded slopes 
of the Cathedral Spires, reaching far skyward above 
this gleaming mirror of the Merced river ; at this point 
the valley is only half a mile wide below that immense 
cliff which they call El Capitan (the Captain) more 
than half a mile high. Away up there on its summit 
you can see trees of good size that look like mere blue- 
berry bushes. 

The Grand Canyon in Arizona is on a vaster scale, 
but its weird beauty has something almost terrifying 
about it. Here, though heights and depths are almost 
too great to believe, we have at the same time the serene 
and peaceful beauty of this little river and its green- 
bowered banks on which to rest the eyes. The river 
waters are the remains of snows up on the high Sierras, 
around us and up eastward between here and Nevada. 
The Merced, made up by countless contributions of that 
sort, is now on its way to join the San Joaquin river 
(some of the most productive ranches in San Joaquin 
county, central California, will be fed by these very 
waters), and then go back to the Pacific from which 
they started by the wind-route. 

You have probably noticed how different that smooth, 
vertical cliff looks from the terraced walls of the 



Position 41. Map I 



YOSEMITE VALLEY 73 

Grand Canyon (Positions 34, 35) where different kinds 
of rock showed in approximately horizontal layers. The 
stratified rocks were, we know, given their present form 
during immensely long geologic periods when the earth's 
crust was being torn and worn into fine fragments and 
the fragments being washed down into ocean beds and 
then pressed into new solid masses. But right here, in 
El Capitan's granite cliff, it is part of the original stuff 
of the earth that you see laid bare — the primeval ma- 
terial of the earth's body, just as it cooled when our 
planet ceased to be a ball of liquid fire. Geologists 
are not in complete agreement as to the way in which 
this deep pocket came to be torn right here, but proba- 
bly the crack was caused mainly by some earthquake 
ages upon ages ago. 

The "crack" is only about six miles long, and it 
varies from half a mile to a mile and a half in width. 
Eastward up the valley, narrow trails, zigzagging over 
the mountain-sides, keep giving magnificent views to 
tourists who ride or tramp through the reservation. We 
ourselves will pause for an outlook at one of the favorite 
spots on the trail up to Glacier Point. We shall face 
north. 

Position 42. Yosemite Falls from Glacier Point 
trail, high above Yosemite Valley, Cal. 

It takes a sure-footed animal to bring his rider safely 
up a trail like this and down again. A three or four 
foot wide path, often rising or descending at an angle 
of forty-five degrees, with an impassable wall rising a 
thousand feet or more on one hand and a precipice 
dropping a thousand feet or more on the other hand, 
is not a place for either a skittish beast or a nervous 

Position 42. Map I 



74 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

rider. As a matter of fact it is perfectly safe, though 
it does give you a feeling as if you were in an aeroplane, 
when you peer over the dizzy edge of this cliff and look 
down on the toj)s of those trees beside the Merced river 
— the same river which you saw below El Capitan. 

Over there ahead, something more than a mile away 
on the north side of the valley, is one of the cascades 
that bring the mountain snows down to the Merced. 
Up on the skyey heights where that flood was born 
there are only rocks and ice, snow and wind and sun- 
shine, — no soil, no vegetable mould, nothing at all to 
dim the crystal purity of the water as it rushes down 
over the edge of that precipice. That first leap it 
makes is sixteen hundred feet, and when the flood 
strikes the lap of the mountain it is almost as if the 
stream exploded into billions of infinitesimal sparkles, 
blowing here and there in every draught of wind. Then 
after a while you see where the spray gathers once 
more into drops, and the drops unite their forces to 
reproduce the shattered stream, and a great volume of 
water makes the second leap down into the Merced 
valley. 

The trail leads on higher and higher and higher till 
it reaches a point on the rim of the valley almost a mile 
straight above the bed of the Merced Paver. There we 
shall look a little west of north. 

Position 43. Nearly a mile straight down and 
only a step. Glacier Point, Yosemiie Valley, Cat. 

Those are the same falls which we saw from our last 
position, but now we are so much higher than before, 
that instead of looking up to where the waters were ap- 
parently sliding out of the sky we actually look down 

Positions 42, 43. Map I 



YOSEMITE VAIXEY 75 

upon that very same precipice. And still the waters are 
dashing themselves into mere misty wreaths of spray 
and then re-materializing for their second plunge into 
the valley far, far down below this eyrie in the skies. 
This is the sort of thing that eagles might see every 
day when they soar over mountain tops, but rarely do 
human eyes have such a feast spread before them. It 
is almost like being off the earth entirely and looking 
down to it from the edge of a drifting cloud. See how 
tiny the tall fir trees look on the lower slopes of that 
opposite mountain, and down in the valley. 

It w r as only as recently as 1851 that white men had 
their first glimpse of this marvelous gorge. They 
were early settlers in the gold regions who were track- 
ing a band of Indian marauders. The Indians had 
taken to hiding places out here in this pocket between 
the mountains and the settlers followed. One of the 
party afterwards described the amazement with wdiich 
he gradually realized that this w 7 as no ordinary moun- 
tain valley but such a marvel as w r ould set the whole 
civilized world to talking : 

"I had left the trail and my horse, and wallowed 
through the snow alone to a projecting granite rock. 
So interested was I in the scene hefore me that my 
comrades all moved on, and I would soon have been 
left alone. My situation attracted the attention of 
Major Savage, who hailed me from the trail below 
with, 'You had better wake up from that dream up 
there, or you may lose your hair. I have no faith in 
Ten-ai-ya's statement that there are no Indians around 
here — some of the murdering devils may be lurking 
along this trail to pick up stragglers.' " 

When the party went back with accounts of what 
they had seen their listeners took a good deal of salt 
with the story. It was not until four years later that 
J. M. Hutchings came out here to see the place for 
himself, and judge whether there was enough in it to 
be worth wri ting-up for the California magazine. Curi- 
ous, isn't it, how easily people are gulled by made-up 

Position 43, Map / 



76 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

lies and how hard it sometimes is to get them to believe 
plain truth? 

Before we ourselves go on, notice the overhanging 
rock on which that tourist is standing. There is an- 
other beside it. They are loose boulders of material 
different from the valley walls, but like the rock forma- 
tion at a place about twelve miles away. Geologists see 
in them (and in the smooth-scraped surface of many 
of the ledges hereabouts) evidence that this whole re- 
gion was once covered with sheets of glacier-ice, slowly 
sliding and settling from higher to lover levels. These 
boulders were brought here bedded in the lower surface 
of a great mass of glacier ice and left behind when the 
ice melted. Glacial action without any doubt had a 
share in the formation of the valley as a whole. 

Just one more look a little farther still up the valley, 
at another position on this same mountain trail, two 
or three miles from Glacier Point. We shall face a 
little west of north. 

Position 44. Amid majestic heights and chasms 
of Yosemite Valley, Cal. 

Our other outlooks were all from positions farther 
to the west (left). We are standing now on the eastern 
shoulder of the mountain they call Sentinel Dome, and 
though we are not near its summit we are still over 
seven thousand feet above sea-level. It is North Dome 
that you see piling its granite bulk higher still over 
there at the other side of the strange chasm. If you 
were to go to the very verge of this narrow bracket of 
rock and earth, and peer over the edge, you would get 
another sight of the green floor of the valley alongside 



Position 44. Map 1 



YOSEMITE VALLEY 77 

the Merced river. From here you can see in the dis- 
tance at the right some of the great snow-fields, where 
not even midsummer's sunshine can melt all the com- 
pacted accumulations of the rest of the year. 

Look at the bald patches on North Dome, polished 
like the bare scalp of the earth's grandpa, (that fuzz 
of trees along the sky-line suggests hair even though we 
know the trees are really w r ell-grown firs), and you see 
again why geologists know that all this region was once 
scraped over with sheets of ice. The long scratches on 
those nearer cliffs at the left look as if they had been 
treated with some titanic equivalent of sand-paper; and 
indeed that was what the ice-sheet amounted to, its 
lower surface stuck full of sharp fragments of rock, 
which it had broken from other ledges during its slow, 
dragging, downward movement over the land.* 

For contrast of our impressions, w r e will go down 
now to San Francisco and see how California faces the 
broadest of all the oceans. We will take our stand not 
within the city proper, overlooking the land-locked bay, 
but on a sea-beach down west of the hills over which 
the city is built. 

Position 45. Cliff House and Seal Modes , TV.N. TF. 
from the sea-beach, San Francisco 

You are facing a little north of west, with the beach 
reaching off behind you, a long ribbon of sand bordered 
with breaking waves. At your right rise the bluffs 



♦For a fuller knowledge of this wonderful region, take the 
tour Yosemite V alley Through the Stereoscope, giving out- 
looks from twenty-four successive positions. A special 
guidebook is provided, with a patent map that identifies all 
the landmarks. 

Position 45. Map I 



78 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

known as Sutro Heights. That building is a hotel 
popular with pleasure seekers who want sea breezes, a 
heavenly view and a good dinner all combined. The 
city itself lies ahead and off at the right, beyond a big 
park. The famous Golden Gate, where vessels enter 
San Francisco bay, is ahead beyond the hotel. The 
shore along here is a favorite playground for seals, and 
the clumsy, good-natured things are often seen sunning 
themselves on those rocks yonder, below the hotel win- 
dows, after a frolic in the water. A cable line across 
the Pacific ocean has its eastern terminal at this beach, 
only a few rods south (left) of where you see the men 
carting sea-weed. 

If you were to sail straight on and on and on in the 
direction in which you are facing, you would find noth- 
ing but sea and sky, sky and sea, till you reached the 
bleak shores of Kamschatka. To reach Japan you would 
need to turn more toward the left and then steer due 
west. Yokohama, where so many American tourists 
land, is in very nearly the same latitude as San Fran- 
cisco. The Orient is our next-door neighbor on this 
6ide of the house. In the fifteenth century the dream of 
European monarchs and statesmen was to establish a 
connection between the home kingdoms and the Orient. 
The discoveries of Columbus, of Magellan, of Vasco 
da Gama and many another gallant sailor, were inspired 
by visions of the East, rolling in riches and waiting for 
her heaven-sent master to arrive. And here we Ameri- 
cans live to-day with the "East" only a few days dis- 
tance westward across a perfectly mapped sea ! 

Eobert Louis Stevenson years ago put into words the 
romantic suggestiveness of this very ground and its 
Pacific outlook: — 



Position 45. Map 1 



SAN FRANCISCO BAY 79 

"I stood there on the extreme shore of the West 
and of to-day. Seventeen hundred years ago, and 
seven thousand miles to the east, the legionaries stood 
perhaps upon the walls of Antoninus, and looked north- 
ward toward the mountains of the Picts. For all the 
interval of time and space, I, when I looked from the 
Cliff House on the broad Pacific, was that man's heir 
and analogue — each of us standing on the verge of 
the Roman Empire (or, as we now call it, Western 
Civilization), each of us gazing onward into zones 
unromanized." 

The bay of San Francisco is, we know, around a curve 
of the shore beyond the Cliff House. Our next position 
will be on the deck of a ferry-boat crossing the bay. 

Position 4:6. The paradise of the sea gulls— east 
across San Francisco Bay to Oakland, Cal. 

Yon are facing east. San Francisco is behind you. 
The long foamy wake of the boat shows how it has 
come across from Oakland where you see the gleam of 
some white buildings on the water-front. Berkeley is 
over on that distant shore a little farther north (left) 
than you can see at this moment. The bay is only six 
miles wide in the direction in which you are facing, but 
it reaches much farther to the right and left, indeed it 
is over twenty-five miles long north and south, and all 
so sheltered by the surrounding land that the navies 
of the world might anchor here in safety. The mile- 
wide strait known as the Golden Gate is the one en- 
trance-way from the ocean and it is protected by up- 
to-date fortifications. The navies of the world could 
never get in here unless Uncle Sam was willing to hold 
the door open! 

As it is, pretty nearly all the civilized world sends 
ships here on errands of trade. Some of the largest and 
finest steamships that ever ploughed the ocean come in 
here with every sort of curious freight from Oriental 
ports, and go out again loaded to their limit with 
American goods for Oriental buyers. Away back in 

Position 46. Map I 



gO THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

1835 when William Henry Dana's Two Years Before 
the Mast was being read in New York and Boston, they 
heard of this bay and of the village of Yerba Buena on 
its shore. Neither Dana, who wrote the tale of adven- 
ture, nor the eastern stay-at-homes who read the tale, 
could possibly have guessed what dramatically exciting 
doings were to transform sleepy little Yerba Buena into 
San Francisco. It was the discovery of gold up in that 
country beyond the bay which called men hurrying by 
sea and by land to get here and dig for the treasures 
richer than the "find" in a fairy-story. To-day, though 
gold mines and silver mines still keep the United States 
government busy purifying and certifying their dazzling 
out-put, the farmer and fruit-grower are even more 
typically Californian than the miner. Eaisins, prunes, 
asparagus, oranges, lemons — these are the forms that 
gold nuggets oftener take nowadays. 

But Harte's short stories of fifty and sixty years aga 
in the gold-fever days are full of fascination still 
though the sort of life which they describe is no longer 
lived here. Bead, for instance The Luck of Roaring 
Camp, Stories of the Sierras, etc. Joaquin Miller's 'Jf9 
— The Gold-seekers of the Sierras gives a vivid idea 
of the experiences of the miners who poured into Cali- 
fornia at that time. Edwin Markham (the author of 
"The Man with the Hoe") contributed an interesting 
article on San Francisco to a volume published by 
Putnam on The Historic Towns of the Western States — 
a chapter well worth reading. 

The Coast Range in northern California includes the 
mountains nearest to the sea. East of them is a long 
valley where the Sacramento river and its tributaries 
carry off the rainfall from the heights. Then between 

Position 46. Map J 




MOUNT SHASTA 31 

the Sacramento valley — now being made into an agri- 
cultural paradise — and the sage-brush deserts of Nevada 
stands another long mountain range, the Sierra Nevada. 
The mountains we saw overlooking Yosemite belonged 
to the Sierra Nevada range. 

One of the most noble peaks in that whole range is 
away up in northern California. We will see it from 
a point near the railway twelve miles from Shasta's 
base. 

Position 4z 7. Looking through summer - clad 
boughs to grand snow-capped Mt. Shasta, Cat. 

In earlier geologic ages, before humanity had appeared 
on the scene hereabouts, that splendid, glittering mass 
of snow-sheeted rock was an active volcano. A good 
part of the rock-formation which you might study in 
the ridge up around the summit is lava, like that around 
the craters of Etna and Vesuvius, though it is hard to 
realize that it was once fiery liquid stuff, boiling over 
and dripping down the mountainside. There are still 
hot springs away up there among those snow-drifted 
gorges, and here and there clefts in the rock, where 
sulphurous vapors leak upward from fires that nature 
has nearly smothered far, far, down below. 

There are several different trails by which the summit 
can be reached; some are fairly easy, others offer perils 
enough to satisfy a hardened alpinist's thirst for ad- 
venture. And when you do stand on the topmost ridge 
you are more than fourteen thousand feet above sea 
level, — as high as many of the most celebrated peaks 
in the Swiss Alps. 

How many eastern people realize the extent of our 
6tate3 bordering the Pacific? A man is amazed, when 



Position 47* AUp t 



82 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

he comes out here and measures the land by traveling 
over it, to find that Oregon for example covers more 
ground than all the New England states added together, 
plus New York state, New Jersey and Delaware. It is 
a land of wonderfully mild, equable climate and pro- 
ductive soil, and Oregon ranchers raise crops whoso 
report sounds to eastern ears like grotesque exaggera- 
tion. Quantities of the best wheat, potatoes, apples and 
cherries that can be grown anywhere are produced in 
the northern part of Oregon in the valley of the 
Columbia river and its tributaries. The Columbia itself 
is one of the noblest rivers in the whole country — so 
superb a water-way that shrewd old John Jacob Astor 
believed it could be made into a sort of easy highroad 
for the goddess of Fortune. We will see it from beside 
the tracks of the Oregon Eailroad and Navigation Com- 
pany. 

Position 48. Picturesque giwndeur of Columbia 
river, tvestpast the Pillars of Hercules, Oregon 

We are on the south bank facing westward toward 
Portland. That train is east-bound on its way to The 
Dalles. For two hundred miles along this part of the 
river, railway passengers have superb scenery contin- 
ually before their eyes. The Columbia is always in sight 
and the banks are rich in picturesque cliffs. Every little 
while there is a vista of the snowy heights of the Cascade 
mountains up at the south (left). Traveling over these 
rails on a day train means having one of the most beau- 
tiful journeys that the United States can offer. 

The river itself has helped make (and now helps 
to keep productive) a tremendous area of country up 
here in the northwest. It takes-in watery contributions 
from seven states of the Union and from British Co- 



Position 48. Map / j 



THE COLUMBIA RIVER 83 

lumbia. It was only a little over a hundred years ago 
(1805) that Lewis and Clark on their famous exploring 
expedition followed this current down to the Pacific. 
Before the half-century had passed a little stern-wheel 
steamer had begun to run from the seaport up-stream 
to get the furs collected at different points along-shore. 
Astor, before the days of railway transportation, had 
plans for establishing a comparatively short overland 
route from the headwaters of the Mississippi river sys- 
tem to the headwaters of the Columbia (they called it 
the "Oregon" river in early times), and so making al- 
most continuous water communication between the east- 
ern United States and the iVsiatic Orient. It was a 
magnificent scheme too, and might have been put 
through if the world had not so soon been given the 
epoch-making idea of steam-driven locomotives, hauling 
cars over rails. 

Today, even with railways available, the river is used 
by freight and passenger steamers a thousand miles up 
from the Pacific. There are dangerous rapids a few 
miles above here (behind you) but a ship canal five 
miles long, over on the Washington side of the stream, 
takes craft through. The country all about here is be- 
ing developed at an amazing rate in the line of farming 
and fruit-growing, and the prospect is that the Colum- 
bia and the railways also will have steadily increasing 
work to do for hundreds of years to come. 

Oliver Wendell Holmes' poem The Two Streams takes 
for its text the rise of this very river (he calls it the 
Oregon), close by the source of another river that is 
sent by the slope of the land dow T n to the Arctic ocean. 

Other craft besides steamers are to be seen descend- 
ing the river. 



Position 48. Map I 



84- THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 



Position 49. Stupendous log-raft containing mil- 
lions of feet of timber, Columbia Hirer 



This is one of the most ingenious freight schemes 
ever devised. The logs were felled miles above here in 
mountain-side timber-lands. They were slid down to the 
river on toboggan-chutes of skids or shot down through 
long flumes, then bound into this gigantic cigar-shaped 
bundle to be towed to San Francisco. You see only 
about half the length of the raft — it extends almost as 
far behind as before you. 

Much of the best timber in the world goec through 
the hands of Oregon lumbermen. Spruces, firs and 
cedars out here in the northwest grow three to five 
times as big as they do in the Maine or Minnesota 
woods, and so regular and fine in grain that the beams 
and boards made from them are positively things of 
beauty. A few years ago a fir tree felled in Whatcom 
county, Washington, was four hundred and sixty-five 
feet tall with two hundred and twenty feet of straight 
trunk below its first branch ! That one tree yielded as 
much building material as twenty acres of what would 
be considered good timber land in New England. Ore- 
gon could keep up the present program three or four 
hundred years longer. To the big-hearted, free-hand- 
ed westerner it sometimes seems petty and niggardly to 
do much thinking ahead when nature seems so endlessly 
lavish of supplies; but in real truth even this rich 
northwest would be deforested in time, and the national 
movement for looking ahead and giving future Ameri- 
cans a fair show has be^un none too soon. 



^o 1 - 



One of the most favored garden-spots in Uncle Sam's 
domain is the valley of the Hood river, which joins 
the Columbia on the Oregon side about half way between 

pQasttfom 4Q* Map i 



HOOD RIVER VALLEY, OREGON 85 

Portland and the Dalles. It is farther north than 
Duluth, Minnesota, — in about the same latitude as 
Canadian Lake St. John where a few weeks of sun- 
shiny midsummer comfort are balanced by months of 
snow-drifts and fur-overcoats. Climate is after all only 
to a small extent a matter of mere latitude. We will 
take our stand in a Hood river fruit farm and face 
northward. 

Position 50. Irrigating a strawberry field ; Hood 
Hirer Valley, north to Mt. Adams, Oregon 

You are looking down the valley, across the Columbia 
(though the larger river is not in sight) and up the 
Salmon river valley on the Washington side. That 
height which rises above the roof of one of the farm 
buildings is Mt. Adams in Yakima county, Washing- 
ton, more than twelve thousand feet high. 

When you hear stories (true stories, too) about sev- 
enty-five carloads of strawberries being shipped in one 
season from this Hood river valley, you can now under- 
stand how they do it. The soil is perfect ; the climate 
here is so genial that roses bloom all winter; and no 
up-to-date fruit grower in this part of the world dreams 
of leaving himself at the mercy of the skies in the mat- 
ter of water. We saw on the Hopi Indian reservation in 
Arizona (Position 33) how the original Americans still 
try to get rain by performing ceremonial dances in 
honor of the Spirits of the Clouds. Out here where you 
are now, imported Americans — the descendants of Eng- 
lish, Irish, German and Scandinavian immigrants — 
arrest rivers in their course and make the over-fed Pa- 
cific Ocean wait till the roots of their apple trees and 
strawberry vines have had abundant drink. This one con- 
trast between the native Indian way of working and 

Position 6Q* Map I 



86 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

the twentieth century American way of working is a 
pretty good answer to the question "What right has the 
white man to oust the red man?" If the earth's re- 
sources were meant to be utilized, it would seem as if 
they belonged to the man whose brains are equal to 
utilizing them. 

The soil here is of tremendous depth, largely of vol- 
canic origin, and so rich that it will need no fertilizing 
of any kind for generations to come. Land like this 
at your feet produces five to eight thousand pounds of 
strawberries to the acre, and cold-storage cars hurry the 
fruit eastward in time to command big prices. Mean- 
while, with every sort of common edible grown at a 
minimum of labor and expense, the fortunate people 
located here seem to be granted an ideal foundation 
for a living. It is the very opposite of what the Pil- 
grim Fathers had to meet, when they wrung scanty 
food out of the bleak hills and sandy levels of the 
Massachusetts sea-shore. Some time, in centuries to 
come, philosophic historians will doubtless be compar- 
ing the types of civilization that grew up at the ex- 
treme ends of the country, and it will be interesting 
reading for posterity. 

The Hood river valley takes its name from a peak 
whose drainage it carries off, a glorious peak of the 
Cascade range, worth in itself a long journey. 

Position 51 • Where the Cascade Mountains wear 
eternal snoiv, Mt. Hood;, Oregon 

Pilgrims through storied Switzerland hardly see any- 
thing more beautiful than our own land has to show. 
The only difference is that in Europe hundreds and 
hundreds and hundreds of years of human history are 
welded ^with the scenery. The lofty passes of the Alps 



Positions 50 V 51. Map I 



MOUNT HOOD, OREGON 87 

remind a traveler of Hannibal and Napoleon. Moun- 
tain-walled Lake Lucerne is eloquent of the mediaeval 
legends about William Tell and Switzerland's struggle 
for freedom. Out here in our new northwest, history 
with all its spiritual significance has yet to be lived by 
human souls. 

"The groves were God's first temples." Can't you 
feel, in the vigorous upward reach of all those trees 
and the majestic splendor of that icy cone piercing the 
sky, something like the element that little man tries to 
put into the soaring arches of a stone cathedral and 
the soaring tones of a Hallelujah Chorus? In Palestine 
across the sea centuries ago human souls found a mes- 
sage in the mountains. "I will lift mine eyes unto the 
hills whence cometh my help." What development of 
human life can be too great and high to expect in a 
land like our own, as fast as we wake up to the full 
inner reality of what lies around us ? 

Over in the Yosemite Valley (Positions 43, 44) we 
saw marks of prehistoric glaciers. But the work of such 
mighty masses of ice was not finished in prehistoric 
times. Glaciers are still at their appointed task, help- 
ing to make over a dead world of mere mineral mate- 
rials into something which plant life and animal life 
can utilize. It w r as only about half a hundred years 
ago that geologists learned to spell out the divine sig- 
nificance of glaciers in our world economy, but now 
their story is fairly well popularized. And we Ameri- 
cans do not have to cross the ocean to study glaciers 
at first-hand. We can see them here at home. Look, for 
instance, at one rugged side of Mt. Tacoma in south- 
western Washington, where the general map marks 
our fifty-second standpoint. 

Position 5L Map t 



88 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

Position 52. Perpetual winter— Mt. Tacoma and 
Nisqually Glacier, Washington 

Some call it Tacoma, some call it Eainier — it is all 
the same peak, and over fourteen thousand feet high — 
that is about twice the altitude of ML Washington, the 
pride of New England's White Mountains. 

What we want to look at just now is that mass of 
hard compacted snow which fills the steep, sloping hol- 
low between those two shoulders of the mountain. Part 
of it is glittering white, part is veiled with delicate 
purplish shadows, part is grayed with rock debris. 
Glacier ice is, you know, formed not like the freezing of 
water in a pond, but by the pressure of enormous accu- 
mulations of snow. The weight of the snow itself 
squeezes out the air and packs the original snow crys- 
tals into a solid mass. The valley that you see over 
there on the mountain-side is much deeper than it 
looks; the compacted ice-sheet fills the invisible bed of 
the hollow just as water fills a river bed, and under 
the heat of the midsummer sunshine the lowest parts 
of the ice-sheet are melting to form mountain brooks. 
Slowly, steadily, the whole irregular mass of ice is 
sliding and scraping down the mountain, but so slowly 
that the clouds sweeping over its summit have time to 
keep renewing their snow-storm contributions; so the 
process goes on century after century. As the vast 
mass scrapes its way downward, it ploughs and tears 
and rasps off fragments from the rocks along its way, 
grinding them smaller as it goes along. Then it hands 
them over to the mountain brooks, and the mountain 
brooks hand them over (still smaller) to the rivers, 
and the rivers break them up into graveL Of the 
gravel certain kinds of plant life make their food; 
and the remains of decayed plant life, mixed with the 

P&sitiea £ft Msp i 



A GLACIER ON MOUNT TACOMA 89 

disintegrated gravel, are what we call soil. And that 
(multiplied by only Heaven knows how many thou- 
sands of years and helped out by contributions of lava 
from ancient volcanoes) is the Genesis of vast tracts of 
rich bottom-lands, about which real-estate owners of 
the twentieth century tell their marvelous stories. 

It fairly makes one's head whirl to think of the 
length of time the Lord has taken to get this world 
ready for humanity to take up His work ! 

The thickness of glacier ice is something amazing to 
one who has never seen it. Take a look on another 
glacier sheeting part of this same mountain. 

Position 53. 'Perilous climbing over ice-crags of 
Stevens Glacier, Mt. Tacoma, Washington 

The ugly possibilities about glacier-climbing lie 
largely in the deep crevasses (cracks) made when some 
tremendous strain comes on the down-sliding ice sheet, 
and it tears open, making a deep, jagged rent with 
walls of sinister smoothness. To slip into such a crack 
ten feet deep might be a good joke, but if the crevasse 
happens to be from fifty to a hundred feet deep it is 
a different story. You notice that these mountain 
climbers are equipped with the regulation alpine ropes, 
— four to six men to a rope. The cordage is a sort 
specially made for this purpose and almost as strong as 
steel. If one of these fellows should lose his footing 
on a slope of forty-five degrees or on the edge of a 
hundred foot chasm, he need be none the worse. The 
others w r ould merely re-enforce their own foothold by 
striking their alpenstocks well into the ice, and then 
pull him up to safety. 

Position S3. Map I 



90 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

Now to go down again to the comfortable homestead 
levels. You have heard stories about wheat-raising in 
this part of the world, and perhaps you thought it 
necessary to make a big discount from the tale as it 
was told. Well, no. Look for yourself, on a Washing- 
ton ranch, not far from Walla Walla, in the southeast- 
ern part of the state. The spot where you are to stand 
is marked 54 on the general map. 

Position 54. Evolution of the sickle and flail— a 
thirty-three-horse harvester , Walla Walla, Wash. 

The Blue mountains are off at your right. Spokane 
is about one hundred and twenty-five miles away at the 
northeast, the direction in which you are facing. 

The farmers of the original thirteen eastern colonies, 
who laboriously chopped down forests, pulled up tree- 
stumps and painfully cultivated little patches of grain* 
for the bread of their own hungry households, never 
could have imagined the possibility of farming on this 
grand, western scale. Here it is a question not of 
square rods but of square miles; not of bushels but of 
car-loads; not of feeding one's own children alone but 
of feeding the teeming population of huge cities remote 
from the sources of food — perhaps in America, perhaps 
away around at the other side of the globe. 

A "combined harvester" like the one you find here 
at work now includes in the one machine a header, 
thresher, separator, fanning-mill and sacker. It will 
cut from sixty to one hundred and twenty-five acres in 
a day and thresh from seventeen hundred to two thou- 
sand bushels as it moves along over the field ; sometimes 
a traction engine is used instead of horses. In this 
even, dry climate it is not often necessary to protect 
the harvested grain from the weather. Sometimes at a 

Position 54. Map I 






YELLOWSTONE PARK 91 

convenient shipping centre you might see over a hundred 
thousand sacks of wheat at once, piled on a timber 
flooring to keep it off the ground, waiting for the 
needed freight cars. Wheat can profitably be sown any 
month in the year, and — perhaps most extraordinary of 
all — two, three, even four crops have been harvested in 
this particular district near Walla Walla, from one 
sowing! Nature (as they know her in Washington) 
gives with both arms full when she gets an invitation. 

Eastward now we move on across the country. Our 
next pause is to be in a region as different as can well 
be imagined from a western wheat-farm, — the weird, 
volcanic wonderland of Yellowstone Park. If you 
need to refresh your memory as to the exact location 
of the park, you can find it on the general map. 

Posit ton *>*>. The most famous sight in Yellow- 
stone Park—" Old Faithful " in eruption ISO feet 

We are at the northwest corner of Wyoming within 
a big reservation set off by Congress (in 1872) for a 
national park. Fifty years ago almost nobody had heard 
of this region of marvels. Now tourists pour in here 
every summer from all parts of the country. 

This is the best known of more than a hundred hot 
springs within the park limits. The ground under 
your feet is covered with a crusty stuff that crunches 
and crumbles. If you had been here a few minutes 
earlier you would have seen no giant fountain at all, 
but merely a mound-shaped mass of yellowish stone 
(geyserite) enclosing an irregular opening in the earth, 
somewhat as a w T ell-curb might enclose a well. Once in 
about sixty-five minutes, day after day, year after year, 
this same thing happens: — a rumble ... a rush 

Position 55, Map I 



92 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

• . . an enormous volume of boiling water shoots 
upward almost two hundred feet in a scalding, steam- 
ing column such as you see now, waving banners of 
fiery mist at the sky and then falling like rain around 
the vent-hole through which it burst. It keeps "play- 
ing" for about five minutes, then the motive power 
seems to give out and the fountain dwindles and dis- 
appears. All that you would find left to tell the tale 
would be the dripping lips of the crater and the sloppy 
pools where a million gallons or so of scalding water 
have left their weird remainder on the ground. The 
crusty stuff underfoot is made up of matter which had 
been dissolved in the waters and which was left behind 
when the pools evaporated. 

Small wonder it is that the first accounts of happen- 
ings in this region were treated with contempt as im- 
possible yarns. One of the first white men who did 
try to tell other people about it was a man named 
Colter who had been with the Lewis and Clark expedi- 
tion down the Columbia river and was returning east- 
ward. The people who listened to him used afterwards 
to allude to this land as "Colter's Hell," and considered 
it about as real as the home of Jack the Giant-killer. 

Geologists now say, that, long before human life be- 
gan, this part of the earth's crust must have been many 
times transformed; it was bulged out of shape by the 
pressure of fiery liquid masses boiling below it; torn, 
and patched-up ; dented-in to form pockets for primeval 
seas; turned inside-out by new upheavals from within 
the earth. At present — this is the scientist's explana- 
tion, — the ground here is full of immensely deep wells 
into which surface waters percolate, wells so deep that 
the rock walls at their lower extremities are kept fear- 
fully hot by connection with the. still fluid, fiery heart 

Position 55. Map t 



YELLOWSTONE PARK 93 

of our earth. The usual explanation of intermittent 
spouting, such as "Old Faithful" exhibits, is that in 
such pockets there happens to be an exceptionally 
deep, heavy column of water, and its weight, pressing 
on the water lower down, prevents that lower water from 
boiling and turning into steam at the usual tempera- 
ture. In fact the upper part of the mass of water acts 
like a cork in the spout of your teakettle. The pres- 
sure of the super-heated and confined water grows 
stronger and stronger till it blows out the cork with its 
explosion, frees its superlatively "hot stuff" with a 
mighty explosive rush, and then settles down again, to 
repeat the process as soon as conditions are ripe. 

There are great tracts of the park reservation where 
you see no sign of present volcanic activity at all, though 
the geologist's expert eye might recognize certain of the 
outcropping pasture rocks as of ancient volcanic origin. 
And such pastures are hardly less interesting than the 
geysers themselves, because of their four-footed popula- 
tion. 

Position 56. Wild buffalo at home on a sunny 
slope in Yellowstone Parle 

You are near the Mammoth Hot. Springs and the 
popular tourist hotel, yet these wild creatures browse 
quite unconcernedly on the grass and pasture bushes. 
Of course they are rigorously protected by law and they 
seem to know it. Nobody ever molests one of them, 
unless some reprobate with a gun takes big chances of 
arrest and imprisonment in order to get cash to spend 
on drink in the nearest town. Thousands and thousands 
(some say millions) of such magnificent beasts used to 
roam the open country west of the Mississippi river only 

Positions 55, 56. Map I 



94 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

a hundred years ago, feeding on the tough grass and 
drinking from sheltered runs. Old hunters and fron- 
tiersmen used to tell great tales of the dramatic stamp- 
ing and tramping and charging of a herd of buffalo 
when excited over some social and political rivalry in 
their own ranks. The Indians used great quantities of 
their thick hides, covered with shaggy, more or less 
curly brown hair. It was a mighty cold wind that 
could pierce a buffalo pelt and get at any sort of flesh 
beneath it. The first white hunters and trappers were 
quick to see that a .handsome profit could be made sell- 
ing such pelts, so the opening of the middle west came 
to mean buffalo slaughter on a stupendous scale. Whole 
herds were butchered and skinned, the carcasses left on 
the prairie, the pelts sold at St. Louis and other trading- 
posts, then shipped down the Mississippi river. (Eecall 
Position 29.) 

There used to be a large variety of big game in this 
part of the country and efforts are being made now to 
encourage their multiplication. For instance, in the 
woods near the Fountain Hotel, especially towards night, 
you may be lucky enough to see this sight. 

Position 57 • Grizzly bear in the wooded wilder- 
ness of Yellowstone Park 

It is one of the original proprietors of the Park that 
you meet here; he has relatives still in possession of 
old homestead lands all through the Eockies. This par- 
ticular specimen of ursus horribilis, as the zoologies 
call him, is about six feet long, with enormous strength 
of paw, claw and tooth if he has a fancy to use it. 
Koosevelt's Hunting Trips of a Ranchman and The 
Wilderness Hunter give spirited accounts of adven- 

Position57. Map 1 



YELLOWSTONE PARK 95 

ttires met while out after just such beasts and their 
wild neighbors in Dakota. Here in the Park, of course, 
they are protected, and they have become unromantically 
accustomed to the neighborhood of human-kind, so that 
they even prowl around the hotel kitchen in search of 
eatable refuse from the cook's department ! 

Mrs. Custer (the widow of General Custer of roman- 
tic memory) in her reminiscences of life at a western 
army post, Boots and Saddles, includes suggestive men- 
tion of the wild creatures common on our Eocky Moun- 
tain frontier a generation ago. The book is full of 
interest and delightfully written. 

Weeks might be spent exploring Yellowstone Park 
alone, but we will content ourselves with a look at just 
one more of the sights every tourist here wants to see — 
the w r onderful way in which the hot floods of an ancient 
river ate their way through the rocks trying to escape 
to the far distant sea. 

Position 58. Down the river and canyon, i\T. 22. 
from brinfc of the Lower Falls, Yellowstone Park M 

You are near the middle of the Park reservation, 
facing towards Montana and North Dakota and far-off 
Manitoba. Just behind you the Yellowstone river has 
made two leaps to celebrate the fact that it has really 
begun its seaward journey. You are standing at the 
edge of the second or Lower Falls; the waters which 
you see racing madly along down there in the bottom 
of the gorge are still dizzy with foam after jumping 
more than three hundred feet; they will keep on till 
they join the Missouri and then the Mississippi, to 
sweep past the levees into the sunshiny rest of the Great 
Gulf of Mexico far away at the south. 

Position 58. Map 1 



96 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

Prehistoric volcanoes boiled over in this neighbor- 
hood, leaving masses of lava rock where the boiling stuff 
cooled. Then fiercely hot water from giant springs 
came pouring along and tore their way through the 
lava with a mighty force which we can only guess at, 
seeing the marks it left behind. And these are the 
marks — the thousand-foot walls of this gorge, worn and 
torn almost as if a corrosive acid bath had eaten them 
away. The present river has nothing especially un- 
canny about it. The waters are of ordinary temperature. 
But it has the effect of a magic stream in some queer 
fairy story, for the weathered surfaces of the ragged 
rocks which wall it in are colored almost unbelievably 
in yellows and burnt orange, tans, old gold and russet 
reds, like a petrified sunset.* 

Perhaps you have some curiosity to see, right in the 
midst of our American civilization, the religious and 
social stronghold of a queer, heterodox sect which is 
steadily growing and prospering in spite of the con- 
temptuous disapproval of the rest of the country. 

Position 59. The pride of the Mormons— Temple 
and Tabernacle at Salt Lake City, JJtha 

This many-spired building and the low one at the 
left, with the egg-shaped roof, together form the focus 
of one of the most fantastic faiths that ever were held 
by civilized people. The religion was started in 1830 
in a village in New York state, when a man named 



♦For a fuller personal experience of this land of wonders, 
take the tour Yellow stone Park through the Stereoseope 
giving chances to look off from thirty different positions. 
A special guidebook is provided, with a patent map identi- 
fying all the landmarks. 

Positions 58, 59. Map I 



SALT LAKE CITY 97 

Joseph Smith claimed that an angel sent from heaven 
had revealed to him the existence of certain metal plates 
covered with ancient inscriptions and buried in the 
ground — "the Book of the Prophet Mormon" he called 
it. The Book itself was mainly a rambling narrative, 
not a code of religious doctrines; but doctrines to go 
with it were soon put in shape and a movement began 
to reverence the Book as a special, Divine revelation. 
The gray granite Temple here, in its design, is quite 
suggestive of the old Hebrew Temple at Jerusalem, and 
with good reason, for Joseph Smith's followers believe 
they are the Lord's "chosen people" and they call out- 
siders "Gentiles" just as the Jews do. Indeed this 
Temple is regarded as too holy to be profaned' by the 
entrance of Gentile feet, though unbelievers may enter 
the Tabernacle if they choose. 

It was in 1847 that the Mormon leader known as 
Brigham Young led a troop of the devotees out here 
to Utah and established a settlement meant to be ex- 
clusively their own. It has now a population of over 
fifty thousand, but that number does include a good 
many Gentiles who swallow their prejudices for the 
sake of sharing in the business opportunities of the 
place. Since a great transcontinental railway line now 
passes through, there are excellent chances to make 
money here. The outlying Mormon villages and towns 
are prosperous too. However objectionable some doc- 
trines of the faith may be, brethren and sisters are 
taught and trained to work with amazing effectiveness, 
and the intelligent ones have usually a marked gift for 
money making. 

The taking of many wives used to be a very profitable 
custom, for the wives (mostly uneducated women) were 
utilized like the women in the ancient Hebrew house- 

Position 59, Map 1 



98 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

holds, for doing all sorts of heavy work indoors and 
out of doors — really servants on board wages. Poly- 
gamy is at present discountenanced by the leaders of 
the Mormon Church and technically it is a thing of the 
past ; meanwhile Mormonism has grown till it has over 
three hundred thousand adherents and it is still grow- 
ing. Human nature is of strange composition. 

People who have a keen sense of the poetry in Eu- 
rope's mediaeval castles sometimes lament that our own 
country is too young and new to possess any romantic 
ruins. They are not well enough acquainted with their 
native land to know that it does have its own mediaeval 
castles, picturesque beyond their dreams. Some of the 
most curious and fascinating of those traces of the men 
of old times are in southwestern Colorado, where a 
large tract has been legally reserved as the property of 
the United States. The "lay of the land" is in itself 
extraordinary; it is high ground, cut through here and 
there by nearly dry canyons through which rivers used 
to run long ago. Take your stand on the brink of one 
of the many canyons out in this lonely wilderness, and 
see where the lords of ancient America used to live, at 
a time when our own European ancestors were tilling 
the fields of Britain and Germany and Scandinavia, or 
fighting for the supremacy of some steel-armored prince- 
ling. 

Position 60. Cliff dwellings of prehistoric men, 
Mesa Verda National Park, Colo. 

Of all the astonishing sights to be found in the middle 
of a great western wild, this is one of the most amazing. 
Those old stone houses — one might almost call them 
castles — with their ruined towers and dusky chambers 

Position 60. Map I 



ANCIENT CLIFF DWELLINGS — COLORADO 99 

and little windows, have stood deserted, silent, mys- 
terious, nobody knows quite how many hundred years. 
When white men first had a sight of them, hidden away 
in this cleft of the earth and huddled under the pro- 
tecting shelter of the hollow cliffs, the forsaken homes 
did not look just as you see them now, but were more 
or less choked with dirt and fallen stones and other 
rubbish blown in by vagrant winds. Authorities on 
archaeology and ethnology w r ere sent here by the U. S. 
Government, and under their direction the ruins were 
searched and cleared of superfluous rubbish. There are 
no signs to indicate that the people who lived here a 
thousand years ago were butchered by invading enemies, 
though they must have feared enemies, for in many 
places w r atch-towers stand at the right points to give a 
sentinel command over the trails approaching the vil- 
lage. What were they like, — the men w r ho built those 
towers and hollowed out those queer, cellar-like, circu- 
lar rooms walled with blocks of stone ? What unearthly 
rites were performed here in honor of the Powers they 
knew not how to understand ? What thoughts filled the 
days of the women who carried water from the canyon 
up the steep bank to the houses, who made the food 
ready, and bore the children, and looked out of those 
small windows up to the sunshiny sky? And why did 
they go away? And when? And where? Even the 
learned doctors from Washington and from the great 
universities cannot answer. They only say that proba- 
bly the vanished masters of these romantic homes were 
the kindred of cur present Indians, only gifted in some 
rare, exceptional way with such insight and ingenuity 
and skill that they knew many of the same arts w T hich 
Europe knew, in far back times when Europe and Amer- 
ica were still ignorant of each other's existence. They 

Position 60, Map 1 



100 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

must have migrated from here when some pronounced 
change in the climate made this region unequal to 
supplying necessary food. And like migrating birds 
they left their nests behind them. How strange it all 
seems ! 

In some of the canyons near such old cliff dwellings, 
explorers have found traces of irrigation canals that 
were doubtless used until the water supply grew too 
scanty for even that purpose. You know that huge 
tracts of Colorado lands farther east are today being 
irrigated by our own engineers, turning what was once 
useless country into fruit farms. The general map 
marks with the number 61 a spot from which we are to 
look over one of Colorado's peach-growing valleys. 

Position 01. Grand Miver Valley and its famous 
peach orchards, Palisade, Colo. 

The rest of the United States have long been in the 
habit of thinking of Colorado chiefly as a land of 
snow-capped mountains with fabulous wealth of gold 
and silver hidden in their treasure-chests ; now they are 
having to remodel their ideas to fit growing facts. 
Colorado does still lead the country in her production 
of the precious metals, but she is fast becoming an 
agricultural centre too, now that expert farmers have 
proven that apples, cherries, peaches, pears and plums 
can be made to grow to the very melting point of de- 
licious ripeness even at places nearly eight thousand 
feet above sea level, under those heavenly Colorado 
skies. (Did you ever see more beautiful clouds than 
those fleecy masses sailing at this moment through the 
blue heights beyond that mountain?) Again, as in 
California and the northwest, it is irrigation that turns 



Position 61. Map I 



GRAND RIVER VALLEY — COLORADO 101 

a dream into such a fact as you find visible down there 
in front of you, where water has been diverted from the 
Grand river to feed hungry tree roots. Within the last 
twenty or thirty years over thirty millions of dollars 
have been spent on the construction of irrigation canals, 
to distribute water from Colorado mountain streams 
where it will do the most good, and millions more are 
being spent every year improving and extending the 
irrigation facilities already existing. The construction 
of the great Gunnison tunnel, to divert part of the 
Gunnison river and make it water a barren mesa near 
Montrose, means adding at one stroke about one hun- 
dred and fifty thousand acres of superb farm-lands 
to the w r ealth of the state. They are not afraid to un- 
dertake big things in a region of such immense possi- 
bilities. It does take courage, but they have the courage, 
all right. And it pays. 

Then, besides all this, Colorado is actually farming 
dry land by means of the newly devised system, and ac- 
complishing agricultural marvels in certain arid parts 
of the state where irrigation is not feasible. 

But w r e must not linger too long over these miracles 
of modern scientific farming, fascinating though they 
are. As it is, we have seen as much of them as many 
a tourist sees, for the conventional sight-seeing tour 
is generally confined to a certain few lines among the 
mountains. The most widely known "sight" along the 
popular railway routes is of course the Eoyal Gorge 
where the Denver and Eio Grande road climbs and clings 
and burrows its way along the side of gigantic precipices, 
over the narrow bed of the Arkansas river. The loca- 
tion is marked 62 on our general map. 



Position 61 , Map / 



102 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

Position 62. Moyal Gorge where the railway 
hangs over Arkansas liiver Canyon, Colo. 

Almost half a mile the canyon walls tower above 
your head at this point on the line, and right where 
that locomotive is puffing wearily over the bridge the 
rift in the rocks is actually only about thirty feet wide. 

It seems like a spectacular "performance" for our 
benefit, and thousands of tourists every season regard 
it in that light. (You are now only about two hundred 
miles from Colorado Springs, and one-day excursion 
trips bring throngs to see the sight.) But after all the 
main purpose of the railway engineers in accomplishing 
such a feat was one of plain bread-and-butter utility. 
The great bulk of the traffic over these rails is long-dis- 
tance freight moving slowly along the broad belt of our 
continent. Some cars that rumble over that engineering 
miracle go all the way from one ocean to the other. 

Then there are railways (a bewildering network they 
make) running up and down, around and over and 
through the Colorado Eockies, partly to connect mining 
towns and farming valleys with the main lines, and 
partly to carry sight-seers to the finest outlook points. 
Seventy miles up west from Denver stands Mt. McClcl- 
Ian, over fourteen thousand feet high. Its summit is 
at present the highest point in the world which is 
reached by any regular railway. And when the special 
locomotive, breathing hard from its lungs of steel, has 
borne you zigzagging to the very top, this is what you 
see as you gaze southward. 

Position 63. Gray's and Torrey's Peaks (over 
14,000 feet altitude) S. from Mt. McClellan, Colo. 

Gray's Peak is the one at the left, Torrey's at the 



Positions 62, 63. Map 1 



THE COLORADO ROCKIES 103 

right beyond that titanic amphitheatre. And, if you 
were to turn so as to take in little by little the whole 
sweep of the horizon, you would find not only two but 
a hundred peaks in sight, the more distant ones in far- 
off Utah and Wyoming, where the purple and silver of 
the earth melt into the silver and sapphire of the sky. 
Poets and painters try in vain to put into words the 
feeling which comes to us in a place like this, where we 
seem caught up out of all the common, temporary 
things of earth and given a vision of the serene Eternal. 
You cannot quite talk about it. But, once that feeling 
has come to you, the memory of it makes all sorts of 
"practical" perplexities and worries a little less perplex- 
ing, less worrying, even though perhaps to save your 
life you couldn't explain the reason why it does so. 
Eeasons are not always necessary. "The Peace of God," 
as the reverent old phrase puts it, "passeth all under- 
standing." 

Much better known than this Gray's Peak excursion 
is the short trip (five miles) from Colorado Springs 
to what they call "the Garden of the Gods." It is 
only a small park — its area less than some city parks 
— but what city on earth could have such a gateway as 
this, supplied by nature? 

Position 64. Gateway of the Garden of the Gods 
and majestic Pike's Teak, Colo. 

We are still in an enchanted land 

"Where the snow mountains lift their amethyst 
And sapphire crowns of splendor far and nigh." 

The Garden of the Gods is behind you. The carriage 
road by which tourists enter passes between those mon- 

Positions 63, 64. Map I 



104 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

umental masses of red sandstone, — really red, with an 
amount of strong color which makes them look almost 
theatrically unreal. You can see where the highway 
approaches the "gate" from the farther side, and catch 
a glimpse of its curve at this nearer side. 

But the glory of this outlook is yonder eastern watch- 
man of the Eockies that stands guard at the dividing 
line between mountain-land and upland plain. Snow 
lingers all summer on parts of that peak, though it is 
not so high as Gray's and McClelland. In 1806 Major 
Zebulon Pike, who was more a soldier and frontiersman 
than an alpinist, explored the lower surrounding slopes 
and gravely announced to the world that "no human 
being could have ascended to its pinnacle." But with- 
out any wanton disrespect to the major's usually good 
judgment you may, if you like, ride comfortably up 
from Manitou in a cog-wheeled car attached to a small 
locomotive; lunch at the very summit; gaze eastward 
over what look to be endless stretches of level floor dotted 
with towns and villages; gaze west and north over 
mountains and valleys and more mountains and more; 
buy souvenirs in a shop up among the clouds; and on 
your return bring down a daily paper printed at a 
mountain-side press, giving your own name in the list 
of the day's visitors. That is the Major's inaccessible 
sky-land, brought up to date ! 

Helen Hunt Jackson was one of the first writers 
who took pains to tell other people about the beauty of 
Colorado scenery. Her Bits of Travel at Home is very 
pleasant reading in connection with this part of the 
west. 

The Garden of the Gods itself is a curious whim 
of nature. It does not invite to worship, but offers 

Position 64. Map I 



THE GARDEN OF THE GODS 105 

what might almost be described as a vaudeville show, 
full of surprises, illusions and jokes. It is a bit of 
ground full of grotesquel) r shaped cliffs, ledges and 
boulders. Here is one which every traveler has pointed 
out to him by the carriage drivers. 

Position 65. Balancing Rock, one of the wonder- 
ful landmarks in the Garden of the Gods, Colo* 

The rock is reddish-brown sandstone, like most of 
the other natural monuments of the park. It looks as 
if it would be an easy matter to tilt the enormous mass 
so far as to send it crashing down the slope, but years 
of experimenting have proved that the huge boulder is 
much more secure than it looks. 

Most of the landmarks hereabouts to which names 
have been given show some resemblance to plant forms, 
animals or human figures. There are rocks that look 
like toad-stools and even like toads. There are a seal 
and a bear. There are . . . but one's appetite for 
that sort of thing is soon satisfied, for after all it is 
only a very crude sort of pleasure that can be taken in 
tracing resemblances of that sort; there is no signifi- 
cance in them and as food for the imagination they are 
but sawdust. 

The way in which this Balancing Eock and its neigh- 
bors received their curious shapes has been explained by 
geologists as due to the rushing of mighty river currents 
through here, and the blowing of mighty wind-storms, 
laden with sharp, powdery sand. 

If, instead of this five-mile trip from Colorado 
Springs, you go forty miles back up among the moun- 
tains, you can see the richest gold-mining district that 

Position 65. Map 1 



106 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEEEOSCOPE 

the world yet knowSj — Cripple Creek. The number 66 
locates the place for you on our general map. 

Position 66. Nightingale Mine at Bull Mill in the 
world 9 s richest gold field, Colo. 

Cripple Creek is the name of a basin-shaped district 
which includes a number of. different mines. Up there 
in the slope of that dirty hillside is the entrance to one 
of the large number. Shafts have been sunk and tunnels 
bored through the breast of the earth all around here, 
until now laborers work from five hundred to a thousand 
feet below the day. Electricity is used for lighting and 
fresh air is pumped into the mines by machinery of the 
newest invention. Telephone messages are sent from 
one underground section to another or to the top of the 
shaft, all in as matter-of-fact a way as if the workers 
were merely in some big city factory or warehouse. 
Elevators of model construction connect the lower re- 
gions with this upper air. 

There is probably no enterprise in the world which 
offers so many dramatic experiences as gold-mining. It 
was not until 1892 that any mortal realized there were 
millions of dollars under this ground. Indeed there is 
a local tradition that the first man who did find traces 
of gold here was so little impressed by their promise 
that he sold two hundred acres of land covering a good 
deal of the gold-bearing region for — a bottle of whisky ! 
Since then a single carload of rock hauled up out of the 
depths has yielded over one hundred and sixty thousand 
dollars. In seventeen years (i.e. up to 1909) this Crip- 
ple Creek district has given to the world two hundred 
million dollars worth of the gleaming yellow stuff for 
which humanity seems perpetually hungry. It is a 
place where you get fairly dizzy with the thought of 

Position 66, Map I 



EASTERN KANSAS 207 

dollars. Small wonder that there have been fearful 
tragedies here as well as magical fortune-making, for 
there is a certain evil charm in the atmosphere. The 
world still remembers a battle between the miners and 
the deputy-sheriffs, which took place near this very spot 
(at Bull Cliffs) in 1893.* 

We must turn away now from the Eockies with all 
their scenic glories and their underground treasuries, 
for we have not yet seen the great Middle West with its 
own substantial beauty and promise. Look at the gen- 
eral map once more, and find where we are to take 
our next stand on a typical farm in the rich bottomland 
of eastern Kansas. The spot is marked 67. 

Position 67. In tlte great corn-fields of Osage 
Valley, Kansas 

You are in Franklin Count}% a few miles from 
Ottawa, facing north towards Lawrence and Atchison. 

The rich alluvial soil that nature provides here i3 
something almost unknown in the east. There are parts 
of these Kansas bottom lands where for fifty feet 
straight down you would find the same food-stuff 
packed, waiting for the roots of the corn to help them- 
selves. The farmers plant early in April and harvest- 
ing is done in October unless the corn is cut earlier in 
the season for fodder. The yield here will be sixty or 
seventy bushels to the acre. Most of the corn in this 
part of the state is at present being fed to stock. It 
pays better to transform it into beef and pork before 
shipping to Kansas City and Chicago. And it pays 

♦For a fuller experience of seeing Colorado, take the tour 
Colorado through the Stereoscope, where you have a chance 
to look off from fifty successive position?. 

Position 67. Map I 



108 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

well. Kansas was never so prosperous as she is to-day. 
If you want to have in your mind a good, clear, well- 
defined picture of Kansas life, be sure to read William 
Allen White's A Certain Rich Man. It gives a most 
sympathetic account of the picturesque experiences of 
the eastern and southern men who came here and opened 
the country shortly before the Civil War, and it traces 
the gradual development, not merely of one villager with 
a genius and passion for business, but also of a whole 
community. It is a book full of entertainment and 
seriously worth-while at the same time. 

The northern borders of the middle west are full of 
sights which show how keenly, energetically alive is 
America's mind, perpetually taking new conditions in 
hand, studying them down to the bottom, and devising 
new ways to meet and master them. For just one ex- 
ample let us go up to the river Ste. Marie (St. Mary) 
which connects Lake Superior with Lake Huron and 
divides the land of the American eagle from the loyal 
Canadian colony of His Imperial Majesty George the 
Fifth. The general map marks 68 the spot where we 
shall stand, overlooking a masterpiece of engineering 
construction. 

Position 68. WhalebacJc freighters of ore and 
grain in canal at Saalt Ste. Marie, Mich. 

You are looking west in the direction of Lake Su- 
perior. That bridge in the distance carries tracks of a 
branch of the Canadian Pacific railway, to make con- 
nections with two of our own railways running west- 
ward to St. Paul and the Northern Pacific line. 

The Canadian shore lies beyond the bridge. The 

Position 68. Map 1 



THE "SOO" CANAL 109 

rapids ("Sault" is French for rapids) of St. Mary are 
off at your right at this side of the bridge. The canal 
that you see at your feet along the Michigan side of the 
river was constructed Ly the United States Government, 
to enable shipping to avoid the rapids. Vessels enter 
the canal at one end as if they were cars run on to a 
side track, and re-enter the river after the rapids have 
been passed. The rapids themselves are caused by a 
descent of seventeen feet in the river and that seventeen- 
foot difference in level is managed by the old device of 
locks — water-tight sectional divisions of the canal. This 
particular section that you see now from a balcony 
of the power-house is the Poe Lock, eight hundred feet 
long. The expense of maintaining the canal is met by 
the government and lockage is free. Those freighters 
now in the lock are headed up-river; the "whalebacks" 
are most likely going to Duluth at the head of Lake 
Superior, for wheat from the Minnesota and Dakota 
ranches; that type of freight-carrier was originally de- 
signed by a Duluth man. It is very economical of 
power and can stand a great amount of knocking around 
in bad weather without damage. The volume of traffic 
through here has multiplied many times since the young 
State of Michigan built the first canal half a century 
ago. Since then the wheat-growing lands of Minnesota 
and the Dakotas have been developed, the Lake Superior 
copper-mines have been made to give up astounding 
amounts of ore, and now within the last quarter-century 
the iron mines of northern Minnesota have been pouring 
out their product in a way that nobody dreamed of a 
generation ago. 

You know how canal locks are worked? Those ves- 
sels entered the lowest lock of the canal at a point off 
behind us, passing through an opened gateway from the 

Position 68. Map 1 



HO THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

river. The gate left behind them was shut; a gate 
ahead of them was opened and the difference in the 
water levels evened itself. Then they moved on into the 
second lock and its gate was shut behind them. The 
opening of a third gate ahead equalized two more levels 
and gave them a chance to move along one section 
farther. When they steam out from the last (upper- 
most) lock and re-enter the river, they will have climbed 
upstairs to the extent of seventeen feet, — the same 
ascent as if they had fought their way up the rapids. 

All this region around the Great Lakes and the 
neighboring districts of the upper Mississippi valley 
were in old times the Indians' hunting grounds, and 
then later the scene of all sorts of romantic adventures, 
encounters and conflicts in the days when British and 
French both wanted the country for themselves. The 
Indian legends of Longfellow's Hiawatha were located 
mainly above here around Lake Superior. The lands 
which we now call Wisconsin, between Lake Superior 
and Lake Michigan, still include, — sandwiched in be- 
tween counties full of towns and villages peopled with 
Americans of German and Scandinavian ancestry, — 
large tracts reserved by the Government for American 
Americans of various tribes. It is a lovely country full 
of low hills and woods, silent lakes and winding rivers, 
just the sort to suggest to mind the Indian canoes, wig- 
wams and camp-fires of our childish dreams. One of a 
host of beautiful landscape vistas within Wisconsin's 
borders is on the lower course of the Wisconsin river 
before it reaches the Mississippi. 

Position 68. Map 1 



THE DALLES — WISCONSIN RIVER ]_J]_ 

I*ositio)i €9. Looking ap the beautiful Dalles of 
tlie Wisconsin Hirer beyond Romance Cliff, M is. 

A Californian would consider these trees mere scrub- 
by bushes, but they have their picturesque value, all the 
same. 

Here is still another witness to the tremendous forces 
that were at work long ago putting America into 
shape. It does not need a geological expert to see that 
this peaceful current must have had a mighty rushing 
torrent for its great-grandsire. Our own eyes recognize 
that those two cliffs just ahead must once have been 
parts of a single, continuous mass of rock, and that the 
stream in far-off centuries sawed its way through. Some 
day this rock shelf under your feet (a layer of the strat- 
ified rock which happened to be tougher and more re- 
sisting than the other layers below) will break off and 
fall, leaving this part of the shore with a profile like 
that of the headland beyond the stunted pine. 

We saw r in the canal at the "Soo" (Sault Ste. Marie, 
Position GS) whaleback freighters such as carry grain 
to market from the ranches of the northern Mississippi 
valley. Chicago is of course the greatest centre of buy- 
ing wheat or speculating in wheat. Tall storage-houses 
("grain elevators" as commercial usage calls them) 
take in shipload after shipload of grain and hold it in 
giant bins ready for reshipment as called for. Work 
at these elevators is something which every traveler 
is shown when a Chicagoan does the honors of the city. 

Position 70. Loading a great whaleback ship at 
the famous grain elevators, Chicago 

The machinery of a great plant like this makes it 

Positions 69, 70. Map I 



112 THE UNITED STATES THEOUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

possible to handle thirty thousand bushels in an hour. 
Iaside those tall buildings are bins shaped like chim- 
neys, twelve feet square and eighty feet deep. Cargoes 
of grain from various points in the middle and north- 
west have been brought here, and drawn up into the 
bins by means of a series of huge buckets fastened to an 
endless belt, working inside a protecting box or "leg" 
which reaches from the bin down into the railway car 
or the vessel's hold. What you see now is the process 
of giving the grain out again into this vessel which 
(apparently) will take it through Lake Michigan, Lake 
Huron and Lake Erie down to Buffalo, New York. The 
grain pouring by its own weight out of one of the bins 
is made to pass through a hopper which automatically 
records its quantity. It is now coming down through 
that immense spout or chute in a continuous stream as 
water might come down through a pipe, filling the cav- 
ernous receptacle space of the vessel. 

A single year has seen more than three hundred and 
fifty million bushels of wheat handled in this way at 
Chicago's elevators. 

As everybody knows, the value of wheat is one of the 
most variable of quantities, because it depends not sim- 
ply on rains and droughts, hot weather and cold weath- 
er, but also on the schemes of speculators. Fortunes 
of the multi-millionaire grade have been made and mil- 
lions more lost in playing that game of finance here in 
Chicago. Norris's novel of Chicago life called The Pit 
includes a masterly study of the mad excitement that 
belongs to grain speculation. It is one of the best 
things of its kind. 

Indeed there is nothing slow about Chicago life, even 
for the rank-and-file who do not speculate in wheat nor 



Position 70. Map 1 



CHICAGO 113 

handle millions in any line. The city is the very em- 
bodiment of American "hustle." Take one look at a 
characteristic retail business street in the forenoon. 

Position 71* State St. north front Adams,— a 
thoroughfare eighteen miles long, Chicago 

You are right in the heart of the city, with the lake 
front and the Art Institute only three blocks away at 
the east (right) beyond Wabash Avenue and Michigan 
Avenue. Dearborn and Clark streets are parallel with 
this one at your left (west). This is just an ordinary 
forenoon throng in a region of retail shops. One of 
the biggest department stores in the world (Marshall 
Field's) is a little farther ahead on this side of the 
street. The big white building which you see ahead at 
the left is another department store called "The Fair." 
There are miles and miles of smaller shops of every sort. 
There are more miles and miles of warehouses and 
factories and business offices, into which armies of wage- 
earners pour every morning, out of which they pour 
every night, to distribute themselves by street cars and 
railway trains all over the northeastern corner of Illi- 
nois. (H. B. Fuller's clever novel The Cliff Dwellers 
includes realistic studies of life in Chicago business 
offices.) The city itself covers a whole county with a 
population of nearly two million. One hundred years 
ago there was only a frontier post here with a few log 
cabins near-by. In 1871, when the city was swept by 
the famous fire, people considered it a tremendous con- 
flagration, but actually the place had only about seventy- 
seven thousand inhabitants ; that figure seems small in- 
deed, compared with the present figures at this greatest 
railway centre in the whole world. It is chiefly its 
service as an effective distributing station that has 

Position 71. Map 1 



114 THE UNITED STATES THEOUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

earned for Chicago its amazing wage of accumulating 
wealth. 

E. P. Koe's novel called Barriers Burned Away, 
which had extraordinary popularity in its time and still 
sells, was a romance of Chicago's great fire. 

Whatever else the traveler sees or omits to see, his 
Chicago friends are almost certain to take him to the 
Stock Yards. A district amounting to nearly a square 
mile within the city limits is occupied by the yards 
and buildings and water-works and special railway tracks 
of this most celebrated live-stock market to be found 
anywhere in the world. Of course it is impossible to 
see more than a small part of it at one time, but even 
that will give some idea of the scale on which Chicago 
works to feed you. 

Position 72. Great Union Stock Yards, largest 
live-stock market on earth, Chicago 

The beasts in these pens have come from ranches in 
all parts of the west (some may indeed have come from 
the very ranch which we visited in Arizona, — Position 
30 — or have been fed from the corn of Kansas, — Posi- 
tion 67), consigned to Chicago dealers. Cattle-trains 
from all sorts of distant points are run down to these 
yards on special branch railway tracks and the animals 
they bring are driven into certain special pens. The 
bookkeeping required is an elaborate system, for every 
hoof must be duly accounted for. Those gallery-like 
structures above the ground level but connected with it 
by long inclines are passageways for the transfer of 
stock from one part of the yard to another. 

There is not much space to spare in the rooms of 
this roofless hotel for the four-legged, but the animals 

Position 72. MapF 



CHICAGO STOCK-YARDS U5 

are properly fed and watered, and are reasonably well 
off. It takes a force of almost two thousand men to 
keep the establishment in good running order. 

In a single year this one market has handled nearly 
three million cattle, over eight million hogs and be- 
tween three and four million sheep, besides calves and 
horses that brought the total value over $270,000,000. 
It is the earth's greatest and chief supply-centre for 
meat-foods. Until about thirty years ago western cattle 
raisers used to ship live stock not only here but across 
the whole breadth of the country to a great many dif- 
ferent distributing centres, to be slaughtered at the end 
of the journey. Now it is found a great deal more 
economical to consolidate the butchering business (in- 
cidentally of course it means vast fortunes for the chief 
promoters of the consolidated undertaking), and put the 
food supply into convenient form at a few great rail- 
road centres. 

Do you care to see how pork, for example, is made 
ready to be loaded into a cold storage car and shipped 
to Cleveland or Boston, Pittsburgh or Savannah ? 

Position 73. A half-mile of porlc in Armour's 
great packing house, Chicago 

The name of Armour is known all around the world 
in connection with the meat business. This is just one 
room in one department of the Armour establishment. 
In a single day nearly twenty thousand hogs have been 
transformed from living creatures into food material 
and a host of other kinds of material. The animals are 
driven in a continuous procession up a long platform, 
to a point where each in turn is caught by one hind 
leg and sent on a species of trolley down past a butcher 

Position 73. Map I 



11Q THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

who dispatches it instantly. A hot bath makes easy the 
removal of all hair and bristles by power scrapers ; then 
each carcass is cleaned, split open, inspected, and run 
into this room where it remains seventy-two hours wait- 
ing for all animal warmth to pass out of it. Samples 
are taken from each carcass and given microscopic ex-, 
amination to detect traces of any disease or parasite, 
and none but certified meat is allowed to go out as good. 
From this room the certified meat is sent to the cutting 
room where parts are cut off to be made into ham and 
bacon, other parts taken for canning and pickling and 
so on. 

One of the most interesting things about a big pack- 
ing house is the way in which every particle of a hog 
like these is utilized. The time-honored joke of this 
establishment is to explain that they use "every part of 
a hog except the squeal." The hides that are taken 
off make leather; bristles are material for brushes; 
bones and hoofs produce glue, gelatine and isinglass. 
Stomach linings are transformed into medicinal sup- 
plies; tallow and grease help make soap and glycerine. 
Whatever has no other use helps produce fertilizers. The 
whole system is a marvel of scientific knowledge, me- 
chanical ingenuity and executive skill. 

Probably this is as much as you care to see in the 
line of meat-packing, important though the industry is. 
The atmosphere of such a place, even with all sorts of 
sanitary care for cleanliness, can hardly be described 
as pleasant. 

Upton Sinclair's sensational novel called The Jungle, 
which a few years ago sent consternation to packers of 
meat and eaters of meat, professed to give a true ac- 

Positlon 73. Map 1 



A MICHIGAN FARM H7 

count of inside conditions in some of the big Chicago 
establishments. But in any case there is no doubt that 
conditions now are good. 

Let us move on a few hundred miles eastward and 
rest our eyes on a scene as different as can well be 
imagined. The spot where you are to stand is marked 
74 in southern Michigan. 

Position 74. Prize-winning sheep (Shropshires) 
in a <Jachson county pasture, Michigan 

This sort of comfortable and pleasant farm landscape 
is what you would find in a thousand places in southern 
Michigan, Indiana and Ohio — nothing exciting about it, 
but just pleasant and wholesome and home-y. There is 
solid prosperity in such regions. People are not hand- 
ling so much money in a year as some of the ranch- 
owners in the Pacific Coast states, but they live well 
and send their sons and daughters to school (very likely 
to the State University) ; they support their churches, 
and subscribe to the first-class magazines, chat with 
neighbors over the telephone wires, and seldom sigh for 
the hurry-skurry of Chicago. 

These sheep have taken prizes at several agricultural 
shows and county fairs. Their wool is of medium 
grade as to fineness. When the first farmers settled 
here sixty to eighty years ago (they were mostly from 
New York state and New England) the farmers' wives 
and daughters utilized with their own hands the wool 
from flocks like this, spinning it on big wheels and 
weaving heavy, durable stuff for trousers, coats and 
gowns. Now they do not even think of knitting stock- 
ings, but order them by mail from the big shops in 
Chicago and Detroit. 

Position 74, Map 1 



118 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

You remember that when we were looking out over 
the ship canal at Sault Ste. Marie (Position 68) we re- 
called how the development of the iron mines in north- 
ern Minnesota has increased the usefulness of the canal. 
Immense quantities of iron ore are shipped through the 
Sault canal, down Lake Huron and along Lake Erie 
to Cleveland, then transferred from vessels to railway 
cars and sent on to the blast furnaces of Youngstown 
and Pittsburgh. We are going to stand now on the roof 
of a shed overlooking the railway tracks at one of the 
Cleveland docks, and see how the heavy, bulky stuff is 
handled. 

Position 75. Unloading iron ore from Lake ves- 
sels, —old and new methods,— Cleveland, Ohio 

We are looking northwest across a ship canal locally 
known as "the old river bed." That freight steamer 
yonder and the nearer one at your left have come down 
from the western end of Lake Superior — probably from 
Two Harbors, — laden with ore from the biggest and 
richest iron mines in the world. Now their holds are 
being emptied into freight cars. A few years ago most 
of the unloading and reloading was done according to 
the method which you see in operation right before you. 
That suspended bucket holding a ton or so has been 
lowered into the vessel's hold and filled, then lifted 
high enough to have a clear swing, drawn this way 
along that overhead beam, and then lowered again for 
dumping into the car. 

Today it is better economy to instal the up-to-date 
unloading plant which looms so grotesquely in the air 
above the farther pier. One of those gigantic arms is 
made to reach its muscles of steel down into the hold 
with a bucket known as a "clam" at its end like a hand. 



Position 75. Map I 



ORE FREIGHTERS AT CLEVELAND H9 

It picks up five or ten tons at once between the two sides 
of the "clam" and then shuts the sides together, holding 
the load secure. Then the arm rises, swings around 
and holds the clam down over a freight car. The sides 
of the clam open ; the ore falls into the car. The giant 
arm goes back for another ten-ton handful. 

A large part of all this ore will be made into steel for 
building railways and railway cars, engines, steamships, 
mill machinery, bridges, steel skeletons of city sky- 
scrapers — the million-and-one modern utilities of this 
Age of Steel in which we live. 

The ore-freighters, as we know, got here by follow- 
ing along the chain of the Great Lakes. The borders of 
that water highway are thick with romantic stories in 
which French and British and Indian and American 
men and women have taken picturesque part. It was 
on Lake Erie, you remember, only fifty or sixty miles 
west of where you are now, that Perry, our naval hero 
of 1813, gained his victory over the British — the victory 
which he reported to General Harrison in the brief state- 
ment "We have met the enemy and they are ours." Pic- 
turesque too are the associations that belong to the 
noble river which carries the overflow of Lake Erie along 
into Lake Ontario. Even the Britons, French and Ger- 
mans across the ocean who know little about most things 
in the United States, have heard of the Niagara river 
and of the stupendous leap it makes on its downward 
course toward the distant sea. 

The general map shows a small, red-lined oblong 
around Niagara Falls; that means we have a special 
separate map of that neighborhood. If now you turn 
to that special map and find each one of our next three 
positions, you can know exactly where you are each time. 



Position 57, Map 1 



120 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

In the upper right corner of the Niagara map is a 
sketch showing the whole course of the river from Lake 
Erie to Lake Ontario. Yon see that its general direc- 
tion is northward, but that it turns a corner right at the 
falls, changing from northwest above the falls to north- 
east below the falls. Now look at the main part of the 
map, showing the river in more detail, and find our 
seventy-sixth standpoint marked in red on the American 
(east) side of the river, where the bank makes its 
sharpest turn. We shall look southwest along the brink 
of the American falls, past Goat Island and across the 
Horseshoe falls to the Canadian shore. 

Position 76*. The world 9 s grandest waterfall, 
Niagara from, Prospect Point 

It is a mass of translucent, jewel-like green that moves 
majestically forward and then sweeps down, down, down, 
without ever a halt in the motion or a pause in the 
roar. Of course people of different temperaments get 
different impressions of it, but generally no sense of 
terror is inspired by it;- — the spectacle is so serenely 
majestic that the onlooker feels not any shuddering ex- 
citement but only wondering awe, and a sense of peace 
such as belongs to the starry heights of the sky on a 
clear and silent night. Indeed the mighty thunder of 
the falling floods has after a little while the effect of a 
solemn silence. You feel like a little, little child, al- 
lowed to look on while a great Master is doing His 
work. . . . 

These are the American falls, making their plunge of 
one hundred and sixty-five feet to a hidden mass of 
broken rocks below. Those trees are on Goat Island. 
The curving line of precipice beyond is the Horseshoe. 
See how draughts of air down in the gorge have caught 

Position 76. Map 3 



NIAGARA FALLS 121 

up a million billion particles of water out of the break- 
ing mass at the foot of the cliffs, and woven them into 
banners of iridescent mist and spray. Such gossamer 
veils woven of wind and water are always floating there 
in mid-air. When you see them at the proper angle on 
a sunny day, you find among their lacy folds the gleam 
of a rainbow 7 . 

And all the time these waters from the Great Lakes 
keep coming on and on and on, gradually wearing away 
the material of the cliffs over which they pour. Definitely 
recorded observations show that the Horseshoe falls are 
cutting their way back up-stream at the rate of five feet 
in a year. 

Look down to the river level and you have a glimpse 
of the staunch little excursion steamer called Maid of 
the Mist on one of her regular trips, taking tourists 
past the foot of the Falls, across to a Canadian landing 
and back again. 

For a short distance below the falls the onward flow- 
ing river moves in surprisingly quiet fashion. The 
Maid of the Mist, for example, has no turbulent waves 
to breast. But two or three miles farther down in its 
course the waters break into a fury of excitement. You 
can see that by taking the position marked 77 on the 
map, just below the railway bridge, and looking back 
southward up-stream. 

Position 77. Wild waters of the Crreat Lakes 
hurrying seaward, Whirlpool, Kapids, Niagara 

There come Niagara's waters racing towards you, like 
some herd of wild creatures in a crazy stampede, shoul- 
dering each other, locking horns with each other, rolling 
over and over, trampling each other underfoot and mad- 

Posltlons 76, 77. Map 3 



122 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

ly tearing on again. They have still nearly ten miles to 
run through a narrow channel (not all the way quite 
so narrow or so rocky as here) before they can reach 
Lake Ontario, and find space in which to agree. Right 
here the channel is only about three hundred feet wide 
and it is probably two or three hundred feet deep, with 
its bed thickly strewn by ragged fragments of rock, 
broken from the cliffs by the force of the falls farther 
up. 

Now go back to the American Falls for a moment to 
see them in a very different aspect, from a different 
point of view, at a different time of year. The Niagara 
map locates our seventy-eighth position not on either 
bank but out in the river. We shall be looking from a 
thick ridge of midwinter ice. And (as the map also 
shows) we shall face the American falls, looking far 
enough eastward to take in the bluff at Prospect Point 
from which we got our first view of the massive cornice 
of down-pouring waters. 

Position 78. Great mass of frozen spray and ice- 
hound American Falls, Niagara 

The ice sheeted cliffs and the sparkling white masses 
of falling water beyond them look almost alike at the 
first glance, but your eye soon distinguishes them. Those 
tiny black things up on the projecting end of the cliff 
are sightseers, who stand just where you yourself stood 
at Position 76. 

The great snowy hill directly before you is an accu- 
mulation of ice, snow and frozen spray from the falls. 
The icicle-sheeted cliff that shows beyond it at the ex- 
treme right is the end of Goat Island. Not every winter 
is there such a marvelous transformation scene at Ni- 



Position 78. Map 3 



STEEL WORKS AT HOMESTEAD, PA. 123 

agara's feet, but once in years the combination of cer- 
tain degrees of continued cold and the blowing of cer- 
tain winds does work such magic, and telegraphic an- 
nouncement of what has happened brings thousands of 
tourists to the enchanted spot.* 

One American of wdiom the whole civilized world has 
heard made his dazzling millions in the smoky air of 
the steel mills of Pittsburgh, where numbers 79 and 80 
are marked on our general U. S. map. Would you like 
to see what such a place looks like? Do not expect to 
see anything beautiful; iron and steel manufactures 
mean soot and grime on all sides, and air filled with 
drifting furnace smoke. 

Position 7.9. Steel Works, famous source of 
gigantic fortunes, at Homestead, Pa. 

You are not actually in the city of Pittsburgh, but 
eight miles out, on the south side of the Monongahela 
river. For miles around this region is famous for its 
furnaces and foundries, huge establishments for iron 
manufactures and for the conversion of iron into steel. 
It was here at Homestead that a pitched battle once 
took place between a force of "locked-out" strikers and 
a force of Pinkerton detectives who had been employed 
by the Carnegie Company to guard the immensely val- 
uable plant. Both the guards and the strikers were 
heavily armed; rifles, cannon and dynamite were used 
with deadly effect. A few years later this establishment 

♦For a fuller study of this most wonderful and beautiful 
waterfall in the whole world, take the tour Niagara 
through the Stereosmpe, where you have a chance to look 
off from eighteen different positions, some of them on the 
Canadian side of the river. A special guidebook is pro- 
vided, with patent maps identifying all th e landmarks. 

Position 79. Map 1 



124 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

and various other manufacturing establishments in 
kindred lines were united to form the celebrated Steel 
Trust, a corporation that started with $1,100,000,000 
worth of stock and $304,000,000 in bonds. 

Carnegie himself, as most people know, was a ten 
year old boy from Scotland when he began to earn less 
than a dollar and a quarter a week in a Pittsburgh fac- 
tory a few miles away. It was not until he was thirty 
years of age that he went into the iron and steel busi- 
ness. 

Shall we give one moment to a striking stage in the 
process of turning dirty iron ore (such stuff as we saw 
handled at Cleveland, Position 75) into workable ma- 
terial of titanic strength? We find the chance in a 
great steel mill at Pittsburgh. 

Position 80. Steel beam, red-hot drawn out 90 
ft. long — Works at Pittsburgh, JPa. 

In other departments of this huge establishment iron 
ore has been melted in great blast furnaces and from 
there run off — a fiery liquid — into bowl-shaped cars, 
and transferred to other rooms. Giant receptacles called 
"convertors" have received deep drinks of such liquid 
iron, together with certain carbon compounds which be- 
came combined with the iron when the convertors were 
subjected to terrific heat. The ingredients were fused 
into one homogeneous liquid mass of steel; then that 
new liquid was run-off and solidified into ingots, ready 
to be reheated in the course of later processes. 

Eight here before you a beam of metal, which is still 
like a glowing coal, is being slowly drawn out and given 
its desired shape by forcing it through rollers whose 

Position 80. Map 1 



HORSESHOE CURVE, PENN. RAILWAY 125 

terrific pressure can be adjusted to the most delicate 
variation of degree. 

Steel from this very rolling mill goes out all over 
the world to do one sort of work or another. It may 
find its place in the skeleton of a Chicago sky-scraper; 
it may help armor a new battleship ; it may help cover 
a Siberian plain with railway tracks; it may bridge a 
river gorge in the Andes or the Himalayas. 

The most direct routes from Pittsburgh eastward nat- 
urally lead up through what was once the perilous 
wilderness of the Allegheny mountains. It is a beautiful 
country much of the way, and the manner in which 
railway trains have been made to climb the mountains 
is something "worth seeing. 

The general map marks 81, a place where we shall 
stand to overlook one of the most successful pieces of 
railway engineering in the eastern United States. 

Posif'^n 81. Famous Horseshoe curve {eighty foot 
rise in less than half a mile), Allegheny Mis., Pa. 

The grade here is one foot in every thirty-two and the 
engines of the Pennsylvania E. E. that haul heavy 
freights past have to be built for it. You are facing 
now nearly northwest; Altoona is off at your right. 
That little station over at the farther side of the curve 
is Kittanning Point. This approaching train, though 
it is now headed southeast, is actually westbound; it 
will make another upward turn around behind us and 
to the left, then ten miles west of here (it is only five 
in a straight line) it will pass the highest point in its 
journey, beginning a long down-grade into the valleys 
f that feed the Ohio. At this side of the same height 



Position 81. Map 1 



126 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

the mountain streams are bound for rivers that con- 
tribute to the Atlantic Ocean. 

If you want to see the difference between older and 
younger mountains (older and younger from the geolo- 
gist's standpoint), just look at these low, rounding 
curves and then recall the sharp angles that we saw in 
Colorado from Mt. McClellan (Position 63). Geolo- 
gists say that the Alleghenies are ages older than the 
Rockies, and that their longer experience of fire and 
flood, ice and storm, is what has worn their primeval 
angularity down into these more placid, gentle contours. 

If you like stories of hair-raising peril, daring, keen 
wit and stubborn fortitude, you ought to read Theodore 
Roosevelt's Winning of the West. Many of his most 
thrilling chapters treat of life among these Allegheny 
heights and valleys, when hardy frontiersmen were first 
pushing their way inward from the original Atlantic 
seaboard colonies. It is tremendously interesting read- 
ing, and it helps as almost nothing else (in the book 
line) can help, to get a realizing sense of what the 
nation owes to those sturdy old pioneers. Their lan- 
guage, their manners, their standards of living, would 
6hock many a refined and cultivated member of Middle 
West society today; but what they did at the peril of 
their lives was what made cultivation and refinement 
possible now. As for the Indians who had held the 
lands — well, read Roosevelt for yourself ! 

And everybody to whom our existence as a nation has 
vivid meaning must be interested to see Pennsylvania's 
historic battleground where one hundred and fifty thou- 
sand of the best and bravest of America's sons, from 
both sides of the country, threw their lives into the 
scale to help decide the fiercest of all the struggles in 



Position 81. Mapl 



THE BATTLEFIELD OF GETTYSBURG 127 

our great Civil War. The general map marks the Get- 
tysburg battleground with a red 82. The place is in 
Adams county down in the southeastern part of the 
state, less than ten miles from the Maryland line. 

Position 82. "High Water Marie" of the Civil 
War and view south to Hound Top, Gettysburg, Pa, 

That hill in the distance straight ahead at the south 
was held by the Federal troops through the second day 
of the battle. The bloody "wheat field," which was 
fought over, lay at this side of the hill. 

On the third day of the battle (July 3, 1863), 
Pickett's division of Longstreet's corps, four thousand 
Confederates, was formed in brigades at the edge of 
some woods a mile away from where you stand. The 
men were off at your right (west) beyond a level stretch 
of open fields. Webb's brigade of the Federal troops 
was entrenched along a farmer's stone wall a few rods 
ahead of where you are now, to the right of where you 
see that clump of trees. Another low stone wall ran 
along at the farther side of those trees and met the 
first wall at an angle. Pickett's men started to reach 
that angle of the walls, advancing across an unprotected 
open field under the deadliest fire which the Federal 
batteries could rain upon them. When they reached 
the angle only one of the Federal guns stationed there 
was still serviceable. Lieutenant Cushing, in charge of 
it, was mortally wounded, firing the last shot by the 
weight of his own body as he fell dead. The Con- 
federate General Armistead with his own brigade 
reached the farther side of the wall. He tossed his 
cap on the point of his sword and held it aloft as he 
leaped over, leading his men straight into the Federal 
lines; but he too fell an instant later. Then followed 

Position 82. Map 1 



^28 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

one of the most frightful hand-to-hand conflicts that 
have ever taken place in modern warfare. It lasted until 
this very ground before you was covered with the bodies 
of dying men, wearers of the blue and of the gray. 
There were on both sides the most splendid courage, 
dogged determination, and heroism of seif-f orgetfulness. 
At the end of that third day fifty thousand lives had 
been ended in this one struggle at Gettysburg. The 
Federal victory here checked the Confederate advance 
northward. 

Any good history of the Civil War gives full accounts 
of those three days. Lincoln's Gettysburg Address de- 
livered here in 1863 is, as everybody knows, one of our 
few perfect pieces of American literature. 

If you care for a purely imaginative, but marvelously 
realistic and thrilling account of the experience of a 
raw country boy when plunged into battle, look up 
Stephen Crane's exciting story called The Red Badge 
of Courage. It is not actual history at all but it is 
considered by a good many old soldiers an extraordi- 
narily faithful analysis of the way many a young fellow 
feels, confronted by the horrible realities of a battle- 
field.* 

We are steadily nearing places associated with the 
very beginning of that national existence whose fate was 
at stake during the awful days at Gettysburg. Phila- 
delphia is worth far more than one brief glance, but if 
we must condense our sight-seeing to that limit there is 
no question what to choose. It will certainly be a digni- 
fied old building of colonial times, where the Continen- 

*You can get a very good idea of this particular battle- 
ground by taking the tour Gettysburg through the Stereo- 
scope, which gives chances to look off from nineteen suc- 
cessive positions. 

Position 82. Map 1 



INDEPENDENCE HALL, PHILADELPHIA 129 

tal Congress adopted the Declaration of our Independ- 
ence from the rule of Great Britain. 

Position S3. Independence Hall where the 
Declaration was signed in 1776, Philadelphia 

You are seeing the south front of the building from 
Independence Square. The farther side of the same 
building fronts on Chestnut street. As you stand now, 
Carpenter's Hall, the Custom House and the (Delaware) 
river are all within half a mile at your right, i. e. at 
the east. Franklin Institute, the Post Office, the Mint 
and a host of other local landmarks are within three- 
quarters of a mile at your left. 

That central part of the building, with the quaint, 
old-fashioned balustrade surmounting the ridgepole, was 
built almost two hundred years ago (1729-1735) by the 
Province of Pennsylvania, for a colonial statehouse. 
The wooden tower was not a part of the original struc- 
ture as Washington and Jefferson and Franklin knew 
it, but was added in 1828. The ground-floor room at 
the east (^Ight) of the tower is where the Declaration 
was adopted July 4th, 1776. The original document is 
now in the possession of the Department of State at 
Washington. The upper room at the right used in old 
times to be the scene of state balls and banquets. 

The old Liberty Bell is now kept in a ground floor 
room directly under that central tower. In the open- 
air space at this side of the Hall the Declaration was 
read to the public for the first time. 

Of course the Hall has been several times repaired 
and restored, but it keeps quite faithfully to most of 
its ancient traditions. Those twenty- four-paned win- 
dows are thoroughly colonial in their style. 

John Fiske's History of the American Revolution is 

Position 83, Map I 



130 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

one of the best, excelling the works of most of our 
other historians in fulness and accuracy of scholarship, 
and being at the same time delightful reading. The 
second volume of his Dutch and Quaker Colonies in 
America gives a particularly entertaining account of 
the beginnings of Philadelphia. For the romantic side 
of Eevolutionary times here in Philadelphia you could 
hardly do better than to find Dr. S. Weir Mitchell's his- 
torical novel, Hugh Wynne. It is a classic in its way. 
Agnes Kepplier's Philadelphia, the Place and the People 
gives a very interesting survey of the old town's contri- 
butions to American life. 

Of course the states along our eastern seaboard are 
necessarily full of reminders of the days when the na- 
tion was slowly shaping itself out of a baker's dozen of 
separate, scattered colonies. One might make a long, 
long series of historic pilgrimages, but we can take time 
for only a very few. 

For many different reasons at once we cannot afford 
to miss a chance to look out over the Hudson river. 
Though its banks are thick with tales of history and 
romance, it hardly needs that supplementary recom- 
mendation. 



"If eyes were made for seeing, 

Then beauty is its own excuse for being. 



6* 



And the Hudson is every whit as lovely a stream as 
the German Ehine which pilgrims flock to gaze upon. 
The general map indicates our next standpoint by the 
number 84 on the west bank about forty-five miles above 
New York. 



Position 84. Map I 



WEST POINT 131 

Position S1-. Looking toward Newburghfrom the 
battle monument, U. S. Military Academy, West 
Point, New York 

This is at the upper end of the cadets' parade ground, 
on a high bluff called West Point, the place of Uncle 
Sam's big training school for army officers. You are 
looking north up the river. Newburgh, where Wash- 
ington had his military headquarters in 1783, is only 
ten or twelve miles ahead on the left (west) side of the 
river. It was at Newburgh that the Continental army 
disbanded at the close of the Eevolutionary War. 

In those Eevolutionary times and in the still earlier 
Colonial days this beautiful river was of tremendous 
importance to the lives and fortunes of new Americans. 
Henry Hudson in 1609 had sailed in the Half Moon 
away up far beyond those farthest shores which you now 
see. Using canoes, men afterwards went still farther 
than Hudson had explored, following the head-waters 
of this river almost up to Lake George, still farther 
northward, ahead of you. Canoes had here and there 
to be lifted out of streams and carried past falls or 
rapids or intervening heights of land. Then paddling 
down Lake George people followed northw r ard down the 
opposite side of nature's watershed, traversed Lake 
Champlain, and reached the heart of lower Canada, on 
the St. LawTence. With more or less hostile Indian 
tribes occupying the districts between here and the St. 
Lawrence, it is easy to see how this part of the country 
came to be the scene of so many exciting tragedies dur- 
ing the French and Indian wars of pre-Eevolutionary 
days. And during the Eevolutionary war itself this 
water-road was again a line of enormous importance, 
because the British used this and the connecting valleys 
as routes from their vantage ground over in Canada. 

Position 84. Map I 



132 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

At one time during the Bevolution our men strung a 
heavy iron chain across the Hudson right here at West 
Point, to serve like a gate for stopping an enemy's boats. 

The establishment of the military training school 
here was a favorite project of Washington's though it 
did not become an established fact until after he died. 
Washington himself many a time looked off from this 
hill and saw those same mountains that you see now. 

John Fiske's or any other good History of the Ameri- 
can Revolution has added interest when one knows parts 
of the country where the question of our independence 
was fought out. 

It was alongside this same river, you remember, that 
Washington Irving located some of those immortal 
stories of his about the times of the old Dutch colonists. 
The Legend of Sleepy Hollow had its setting a few miles 
down-river from here, on the east bank, i. e., behind you 
at the right. Rip Van Winkle's mountain adventure 
and his strange return home belong to the Catskill 
mountains, a few miles farther up-river at the west, 
that is, ahead and off at your left. 

Cooper's Indian tale, The Last of the Mohicans, is a 
story of the country still farther up, toward Lake 
George. 

If you turn around and walk a few rods across the 
level green of the parade ground, you can see going on 
some of the military training that Washington's fore- 
sight helped put in operation here. 

Position 85. Skirmish line drill of cadets,— our 
future army officers at JVest Point, JSTetv York 

These are a few of the hundreds of young men, phy- 
sically and intellectually the pick of the whole country, 

Positions 84, 85. Map I 



WEST POINT 133 

who are being trained to- guard the nation and give her 
a chance to develop her best possibilities. Each cadet 
admitted here was recommended by the ^Representative 
from the Congressional district where he lived (the 
President has the right to make thirty additional recom- 
mendations at large) , and each appointment was con- 
firmed by the Secretary of War. Once here, the four 
years' round of work is severe as it can be made. Each 
future officer has to apply himself to an absolutely pre- 
scribed course; there are no such things as "snaps" or 
easy, elective studies. Besides the art and science of 
war, the study of ordnance and gunnery and drill regu- 
lations of all arms of the service, these men must make 
themselves fit to be leaders by a great man)*- lines of 
study which some civilians do not realize are required — 
the higher mathematics, drawing, the French and Span- 
ish languages, physics, chemistry, electricity, geology 
and mineralogy, history, constitutional, military and 
international law — all these have to be mastered, and if 
the semi-annual examinations do not show that first 
class work has been done very little leniency is shown. 
A weak student is dropped and somebody else with better 
brains is admitted to take his place. 

The gymnasium drill here is wonderfully fine; these 
fellows learn to perform all sorts of hair-raising feats in 
the way of horseback riding, climbing and leaping, as 
if they were every-day commonplace. 

Graduates go out from here commissioned by the 
President as second-lieutenants, but from that point up- 
ward they earn their own promotions, whatever those 
may be. 

A host of famous names are associated with this 
ground. General Grant was once a cadet here; so was 
General Eobert E. Lee. Sherman, Sheridan, Stonewall 



Position 85. Map 1 



134 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

Jackson, Joseph Wheeler and many another of America's 
distinguished soldiers used to drill on this very ground 
which you see at your feet or look off up the river as 
you looked a few moments ago. 

Captain Charles King, whose innumerable stories of 
American army life are so popular, was once a cadet 
here; indeed one of his books (Cadet Days) has its 
scene laid here at the Academy. 

Six or seven hours' ride by rail would take us from 
this eastern part of ISTew York state across Connecticut 
and Massachusetts to old Boston on the shore of Massa- 
chusetts Bay. If it were possible to stretch one hundred 
outlooks so as to cover all the really important and in- 
teresting things in the land we should give a generous 
share of time to New England and especially to Massa- 
chusetts, small though the state is in proportion to the 
splendid acres in the Middle West and on the Pacific. 
But as it is we will glance at only a few of those sights 
which the stranger specially wants to see because of 
their wide famd — Bunker Hill, for instance. The very 
fact of America's national existence to-day has part of 
its foundation in the soil of Bunker Hill. 

Position 80. IZunJter Hill monument, memorial 
of the famous Revolutionary battle in 1775, Boston 

You are looking from a house-roof. That open 
grassy space is the top of a low hill near the northern 
limit of Boston. The noisy, crowded streets of the busi- 
ness districts and the beautiful airy streets of the best 
residence districts are off behind you, across the Charles 
river. You are just now facing nearly north. The 
water which you see straight ahead is an arm of the 
Bay. Salem, the old home of Hawthorne, is fourteen 



Position 86. Map I 



I 



BUNKER HILL 135 

miles away up the "north shore" which you see stretch- 
ing away towards Nahant, Beverly and Cape Ann. Con- 
cord and Lexington, where the first real battle of the 
Revolution was fought, are fifteen or eighteen miles 
inland off at your left (west). 

It was here on June 17th, 1775, that the famous 
battle was fought between the American colonists and 
the British troops sent over by King George III. Only 
two months before (April 18-19) Paul Revere had rowed 
across the Charles river from old Boston to a point not 
far from here, and received the famous lantern signal 
which sent him riding through the night to warn the 
people of Concord and Lexington that the British were 
about to march that w r ay. (See Longfellow's poem, 
Paul Revere' s Ride.) 

The patriot leaders found out that the British Gen- 
eral Gage was meaning to fortify this height for use in 
forcibly controlling the towns at its base, and they fore- 
stalled the British movement by erecting up here rough 
breastworks of their own. The labor was hastily done 
during the night of June 16. At daybreak the situation 
of things was discovered and a British force of four 
thousand men came to take possession. The patriots 
numbered only fifteen hundred. It was while they were 
waiting and the British were advancing that General 
Prescott gave the patriots their terse instructions not 
to waste any of the scanty ammunition: — "Don't fire, 
boys, till you see the whites of their eyes." 

The corner stone of this memorial obelisk was laid 
in 1825 by Lafayette, our ally from France. Daniel 
Webster made one of his greatest speeches on that occa- 
sion. 

The city behind us is today a great manufacturing 

Position 86. Map I 



136 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

and commercial centre. Massachusetts is dotted thick 
with cities and towns full of mills and factories, where 
machinery buzzes and roars six long days in every week 
of the year. But cotton mills, woolen mills, shoe fac- 
tories, machine shops and the like are not what the 
tourist usually cares to visit, even though they do have 
tremendous significance when you look at them as com- 
plementing the great agricultural and pastoral under- 
takings in other parts of the country. We will therefore 
keep more to the things of old-times, and take the busy, 
prosperous present for granted. Eight in the heart of 
a tangle of narrow, crooked streets in the old part of 
Boston you find a public building that has been the 
scene of one exciting episode after another in the mak- 
ing of American history. 

Position 87. The "Cradle of Liberty," Faneuil 
Hall, scene of historic assemblies, Boston 

There is no one room in the length and breadth of 
the land which has seen so many important public 
gatherings. Legislative halls in different parts of the 
country are used by officially authorized, exclusive bodies 
of men. The speeches made here have been addressed 
not to legislators but to the plain people who make 
legislators. 

You are on the second floor of the building, above a 
public market. The original building was given to the 
town in 1742 by Peter Faneuil, a rich merchant whose 
portrait you see on the w r all ahead (the lower one at the 
left). It was rebuilt in 1762. James Otis, the Kevolu- 
tionary patriot, in 1763 made the first notable speech 
here, dedicating the hall "to the cause of liberty." In 
1766 the building was illuminated to celebrate the re- 
peal of the Stamp Act. In 1768 British troops, sent 

Position 87. Map I 



LONGFELLOW'S HOME 137 

to discipline the town, were for a while quartered in 
this very hall. All through our struggle for independ- 
ence, citizen forefathers of the nation gathered here, 
inspiring and catching inspiration from such men as 
John Adams and Samuel Adams, Hancock, Otis, Jeffer- 
son. Washington stood here many and many a time. 
Then in later days Daniel Webster and Charles Sumner 
and Wendell Phillips and a host of other brilliant sons 
of the nation have here given to the world some of their 
greatest thoughts, white-hot with zeal for some great 
Cause. According to the terms of its erection, this hall 
can never be sold and never be leased for money. It 
has always been and must always be free ground for 
the free speech of citizens w 7 ho support a free govern- 
ment. 

We saw at Arlington and Mount Vernon (Positions 
13, 14) two fine old Southern homes dating back to 
eighteenth century days; Massachusetts too treasures 
some beautiful old mansions whose well preserved dig- 
nity takes us back into the atmosphere of a noble and 
splendid past. One such house is a favorite landmark 
in Cambridge, the Boston suburb where Harvard Uni- 
versity is located. It is only a short distance from the 
University grounds. 

Position 88. Stately old home of Longfellow, 
once Washington's headquarters, Cambridge, Mass. 

It was a rich Tory gentleman of Boston w r ho built 
this house in 1759. It is wood over a lining of brick, 
constructed in the solid, permanent fashion which be- 
longed to those days of leisurely and painstaking work- 
manship. But Boston in early Revolutionary times was 

Positions 87, 88. Map I 



138 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

not a pleasant place for strong Tory sympathizers ! In 
1775 Washington made his headquarters here, sleeping 
in the chamber on the second floor at the right of the 
entrance. The elm tree under which he stood when he 
took command of the patriot army is still one of the 
sights of Cambridge, only a few rods away down the 
street at your right. 

In 1837, Longfellow who was professor of modern 
languages and literature at Harvard, came here to live 
and occupied the room which had been Washington's. 
He became greatly attached to the place, and, after his 
marriage, the house was bought for his permanent home. 
Here he wrote Evangeline, the Psalm of Life, a good 
deal of Hiawatha and in fact the greater number of all 
his poems which have since gained world-wide fame. 
The ground floor room at the right of the front door 
was his study, and the library is behind it. Here for 
years he used to work and to receive distinguished guests 
who came from all parts of the world. He died in 1882, 
rich in fame and in his fellow-men's affection. The 
home belongs now to his daughter, the "Alice" of his 
poem called The Children s Hour. 

James Eussell Lowell also was a Harvard professor 
and lived in Cambridge. His birthplace is another ob- 
jective point for throngs of present-day pilgrims, w T ho 
reverence his noble spirit and poetic genius and who de- 
light in the sparkle of his shrewd and kindly wit. 

Position 89. Elmwood, birthplace of James 
Mussell Lowell at Cambridge, Mass. 

The poet was born here in 1819 and spent his boyhood 
playing under these very trees. Here he lived all 
through his Harvard professorship and during the times 

Positions 88, 89. Map 1 



CAMBRIDGE, MASS. 139 

when he was the scholarly editor of the Atlantic Month- 
ly and the North American Review. Here he wrote 
by far the larger part of his poems and essays, and a 
great number of his incomparably delightful letters. You 
can see for yourself how he may have gathered from 
these very surroundings the inspiration for some of his 
loveliest interpretations of nature's summer beauty — 
(don't you remember "And what is so rare as a day in 
June" in his Vision of Sir Launfal?) — Yes, and winter 
beauty too. If you know his verses called The First 
Snow-fall you remember how he describes just such trees 
as these outside his window : — 

"Every pine and fir and hemlock 
Wore ermine too dear for an earl, 

And the poorest twig on the elm tree 
Was ridged inch-deep with pearl." 

(See his poems and essays, his biography by Scudder, 
and his published letters.) 

Meanwhile the greatest city of the United States, the 
second largest city in the whole world, awaits our visit. 
The rest of our sight-seeing will be done in New York, 
and w r e have a special map of the city on which to 
identify each position and its outlook. The map shows 
in full only one of the four boroughs that make up the 
city, but that borough (Manhattan island at the mouth 
of the Hudson river) is the one where the points of 
most striking interest and importance are found. The 
borough of Brooklyn (of which the map shows only a 
fraction at the southeast, on Long Island) is chiefly de- 
voted to homes, factories and retail business. The bor- 
ough of the Bronx, (of which just a fraction is shown 

Position 89. Map I 



140 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

at the northeast, on the mainland above Manhattan) 
is chiefly a region of homes and public parks. The bor- 
ough of Eichmond (on Staten Island) and Queens (on 
Long Island northeast of Brooklyn) include great tracts 
of country built up or about to be built up with homes. 
For you know the city as a whole has now more than 
four million people within its borders.* 

Our ninetieth position is marked near the Brooklyn 
waterfront, on a roof not far from the eastern terminus 
of Brooklyn bridge. The red lines diverging from 90 
show that we are to look a little north of west along 
the bridge and across the East river to Manhattan. 

Position 90. JBrooMyn JBridge W* N. W. from 
JZrooMyn toward Manhattan, Netv YorJc City 

If you give a little study to the map in connection 
with what you see, you can get your bearings perfectly. 
The borough of Brooklyn reaches off behind you. The . 
East river is flowing southward and enters the harbor 
beyond Governor's Island, less than a mile away at your 
left. The buildings massed together over there in Man- 
hattan are well down-town; the Battery at the end of 
the island is only about three quarters of a mile below 
the World building, whose lofty dome is so conspicuous 
over there beyond the farther end of the bridge. And 
northward (right) the city reaches off fifteen or sixteen 
miles farther than you can just now see. 

During Washington's first term as President he lived 
in a house over there on the Manhattan side occupying 
ground which is now covered by one of the big granite 

♦For a fuller experience of New York, take the special 
tour 'New York through the Stereoscope, providing for 
thirty-six positions in different parts of the city. 

Position 90. Map 4 



BROOKLYN BRIDGE ]_.[\ 

piers of the bridge. That neighborhood is now a grimy, 
noisy region of factories, warehouses and slum tene- 
ments, though it used to be a fashionable residence dis- 
trict. 

This magnificent bridge was one of the world's won- 
ders when it was completed in 1883, connecting Man- 
hattan Island with Long Island. Indeed it is still a 
model for its own sort of construction, combining stone 
and steel. (Two newer bridges which now span the 
same river farther up, at your right, are entirely of 
steel.) As a piece of scientific engineering this beauti- 
ful structure that you see now will always command ad- 
miration. The distance covered between where you leave 
the ground level here in Brooklyn and where you reach 
the ground level again over there in Manhattan is nearly 
a mile and a quarter. Those granite towers from which 
the road-bed is hung stand two hundred and seventy- 
eight feet high, with foundations solidly embedded far 
down below the river level. That graceful curve of the 
middle span is one hundred and thirty-five feet above 
the water. The steel cables are immense bundles of 
smaller steel wires, whose length if laid out singly would 
be over fourteen thousand miles — almost enough for a 
thread to run through the earth from pole to pole and 
back again! 

Next we will go over to the southernmost end of 
Manhattan and look off down the harbor. 

Position 91. Castle Garden, the Aquarium and 
Liberty statue in harbor, New York City 

You are looking southwest toward the borough of 
Richmond or Staten Island (that is part of Staten Is- 
land in the distance at the left) and the New Jersey 

Positions 90, 9L Map 4 



142 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

shore. The Hudson river enters the harbor down at 
your right. The East river, (the outlet of Long Island 
Sound) enters the harbor down at your left. The chan- 
nel called the Narrows, through which vessels pass to 
reach the open ocean, is a little too far east (left) for 
you to see at this moment. Ellis Island, where immi- 
grants land for examination before being admitted to 
the country, is inside this harbor, just out of sight at 
the west (right) and not far from where you see that 
immense statue of Liberty holding her torch of en* 
lightenment aloft, from her pedestal on Bedloe's Island. 
At the Ellis Island station by far the greatest number 
of all our new Americans make their first landing on 
American soil. The incoming numbers vary — some- 
times a thousand in a week; sometimes over six thou- 
sand have been examined in a single day and sent on to 
meet friends in the city or to take railway trains for 
other parts of the country. No land on earth, in all 
human history, ever had just these conditions to meet. 
No land on earth, in all human history, so needed intel- 
ligent and hearty loyalty in all her sons, native or adopt- 
ed, to enable her to meet the conditions nobly and sens- 
ibly and successfully. (See books on our immigration 
problem, noted on page 170.) 

The waters here are always alive with boats — often a 
great many more than happen to be in sight now — 
ferries from Staten Island and Long Island and New 
Jersey; steamers from points along the Long Island, 
Connecticut, Massachusetts and Maine coast; steamers 
from Albany, Philadelphia, Norfolk, Baltimore, Charles- 
ton, Savannah, New Orleans. Ocean liners come in here 
from almost every port of importance in the civilized 
world. Great railways whose transcontinental lines run 
west from the New Jersey side of the Hudson, either 



Position 91. Map 4 



LOWER NEW YORK 143 

tunnel under the Hudson farther up-stream or else send 
passenger and freight cars on big transport-ferries 
around this lower end of Manhattan Island to land 
above here at the east and continue their journey into 
New England. The subw r ays (underground railways) 
of New York City cross to Brooklyn through a tunnel 
under the East River down at your left, and cross to 
New Jersey by tunnels under the Hudson river (a 
little farther up-stream) behind you at the right. 

The grassy space below this balustrade is Battery 
Park ; the name is a trace of seventeenth century times 
when cannon were planted there for the protection of 
the young settlement. In those days the ground where 
that low building stands was a ledge a few rods off-shore 
and it held a rude "castle" or fort connected with the 
mainland in real story-book fashion, by a drawbridge. 
The natural moat has since been filled in. (New York 
Old and New by E. R. Wilson or In Old New York by 
Thomas Janvier would give you most readable accounts 
of the city's picturesque experiences of long ago.) For 
a great many years this end of the island was called 
Castle Garden and used as a fashionable promenade; 
now, though it lays no claims to elegance, it is a much 
needed recreation place for thousands of dwellers in 
crowded streets not far away. The low rounded build- 
ing is now a fine aquarium. 

New York, in spite of her frightfully crowded popu- 
lation, is rich in summer-time pleasure resorts for those 
who have even a few nickels to spend on a treat. Most 
popular of all is a sea-beach at the southern edge of 
the borough of Brooklyn, just outside the harbor, by 
the ocean. 



Position 91. Map 4 



144 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

Position 92. "In the good old summer-time"— 
holiday crowds on the beach at Coney Island, N. Y. 

Trolley cars, railways and excursion steamers all are 
hard-worked every hot Saturday and Sunday through 
the summer, bringing here the crowds that want to spend 
the day where fresh salt breezes blow. Innumerable 
restaurants and cafes of all grades provide things to eat 
and drink. Vaudeville shows and spectacles and per- 
formances of every ingenious kind offer a variety of en- 
tertainment to suit a good many varieties of taste. And 
here is always the blue sea inviting tired folks to frolic 
and refreshment. Throngs such as you see here now 
have many a time counted up to a hundred thousand 
persons in a single day, and only a small minority 
indulge in any really objectionable behavior. As a rule 
it is a decent and wholesome sort of "good time" that 
people find here. 

Position 93. Brilliant Luna Parte at night, Coney 
Island, New Yorte's great pleasure resort 

This is one of the myriad sights to be seen at Coney 
Island on any midsummer evening. We are within a 
special amusement section called Luna Park. Straight 
ahead is the Water Tower, transformed by glittering 
electric lights into something like a castle of fairyland. 
Those two long rows of sparkling arches mark the 
chutes where boats full of young people, shrieking with 
delight, slide down steep inclined planes into an artificial 
lake. 

Every season offers new attractions here, some in the 
form of dazzling spectacles at which you merely look 
on, some in the form of exciting and amusing adven- 
tures in which you may personally take part if you 
enjoy having thrills run down your back and having 

Positions 92, 93. Map 4 



SKYSCRAPERS ON LOWER BROADWAY J45 

your hair stand on end. And thousands on thousands of 
people do find it great fun. It is the most bewilderingly 
up-to-date place of amusement in the world. 

But now to go back into town. Of course everybody 
knows something about how the increasing pressure of 
business in lower New York has increased land values, 
and how, since a tremendous amount of cash now com- 
mands only a very small space of ground, land owners 
have met the situation by carrying their buildings higher 
and higher and higher. Some of the most striking of 
all the many "sky-scrapers" within the city limits are 
along lower Broadway, where land is worth from three 
hundred to six hundred dollars per square foot. Con- 
sult our New York map once more and find our ninety- 
fourth position, indicated at the junction of Broadway 
and Park Eow. 

Position 04. Singer Building {forty-seven stories) 
and City Investing JBuilding {thirteen acres floor 
space) New York City 

You are up on the roof of the Post Office, facing 
nearly south toward the harbor. Battery Park (which 
we saw from Position 91) is about three quarters of a 
mile away down at the farther end of that narrow can- 
yon of "Broadway." The Manhattan end of Brooklyn 
bridge (which we saw from Position 90) is only three 
minutes' walk north-east of here, i. e. down behind you 
at the left. 

The tall pile just ahead, at the left, is the St. Paul 
building, named for old St. Paul's church down at the 
opposite (west) side of Broadway. You can see a bit 
of its low gabled roof rising above the sidewalk; its spire 
rises at the west end of the church, farther toward your 
right. 



Positha 94. Ms? 4 



146 THE UNITED STATES THROTTGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

The tower that stands forty-seven stories high you 
recognize at once as the Singer building. Seen from a 
distance (e. g. from a vessel coming up the harbor), 
one might mistake it for the soaring spire of a great 
cathedral; and, though it really does stand for com- 
mercial ambition rather than religious aspiration, it cer- 
tainly adds tremendously to the dignity of the city's 
sky-line. As we see it now, with that superb mass of 
the City Investing Building at this side of it to balance 
its own extreme of vertical slenderness, we have perhaps 
the best example of positive beauty that America can 
offer in the form of giant temples of money-making. 
Sky-scrapers are most often painfully ugly things, ap- 
pealing to us only by reason of their practical business 
utility and the able engineering that went into their 
construction; but don't you really think that splendid 
pile of steel and stone before us now is a development 
beyond America's former condition, — complacent satis- 
faction with useful ugliness? Notice the artistic in- 
genuity with which the architect handled one of the 
myriad problems involved in his vast and complicated 
problem — the placing of windows in such a way that 
they would perfectly serve their practical purpose of 
giving light to the offices in the building, and yet be a 
pleasure to the eye when seen from the outside. At this 
moment you can see, even with this obstructed view, 
more than five hundred windows, all nearly (perhaps 
exactly) the same size. Imagine what a hideous thing 
would have been created if the architect had planned his 
building to have one even surface on this north side and 
had set those five hundred windows all at equal distances 
from each other. It would have been like a dismal 
nightmare about multiplication tables ! But he did no 
such stupid, commonplace thing as that, Neither did 



SKYSCRAPERS IN LOWER NEW YORK 147 

he make the mistake of putting in some windows of 
fancy shapes and sizes for the sake of variety, and so 
giving his work a cheap "gingerbread" character un- 
suitable for so grand a building. He simply grouped 
the plain, sensible windows by ones, by twos, by threes, 
and separated them with tall plain, vertical wall spaces, 
in such a way as to make the alternating darks and 
lights form a pattern that gives real delight to the eye. 
And that is only one of a hundred ways in which the 
architect of this building has proved to the world that 
the useful may just as well be beautiful too, if only the 
worker has the right feeling about it, and technical skill 
to translate feeling into facts. 

Now we wdll go down into a building which stands 
beyond the farther (west) end of Old St. PauPs church, 
and look back past the church toward the place where 
we have just been standing on the Post-Office roof. 

Position 95. From Church St. northeast past St. 
Paul's to Park Mow Building (twenty-nine stories) 
Neiv York City 

That cupola and flag pole mark the roof of the Post- 
office from which we were looking off a moment ago. 
The old brown church is the same one whose spire and 
gable we saw before. The Singer building and its beau- 
tiful neighbor are now too far to the right for us to see 
them. The tall structure that looks like a slice of some- 
thing standing on end is the same St. Paul building 
which we saw from the Post Office ; beyond it the Park 
Bow building holds aloft its pair of curious, bottle- 
shaped towers. At first you feel like saying "cupolas" ; 
then you count windows and see that they are five stories 
high — yes, "towers" must be the right word. The fact 

Positions 94. 95* Map 4 



148 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

is, in the presence of such giants as these Manhattan 
sky-scrapers you cannot at first quite believe what you 
see even while you are seeing it; five thousand people 
are at work in the offices of that one building each regu- 
lar business day. Not less than twenty-five thousand go 
in and out every day. 

The underground tracks of the Subway burrow 
through the ground down in front of the Park Eow 
building and curve around so as to continue southward 
(right) under Broadway, i. e. between the St. Paul 
building and St. Paul's church, on their way to tunnels 
deep down under the East river, leading across to 
Brooklyn. 

The plain, old fashioned church is a bit of the eight- 
eenth century, and it makes a curiously poetic contrast 
with those queer, gigantic constructions looming up far 
above its own modest spire. It was built in 1764 and 
was a favorite place of worship in the days when Wash- 
ington was serving his first term as President and while 
our national government was centred in New York. Gen- 
eral Montgomery, the gallant commander who died at 
the storming of Quebec, is buried in that church and a 
memorial tablet on the (farther) end next to Broadway 
tells of his brilliant services to the country. 

The six story stone building at the left, on Vesey 
Street, is the old Astor House, considered a marvel of 
elegance when it was opened in 1836. Thuriow Weed 
lived there for years while he was wielding tremendous 
political power. Andrew Jackson used to make that 
hotel his headquarters when he came to New York ; so 
did Sam Houston, Henry Clay, Daniel Webster, Abra- 
ham Lincoln, Washington Irving, Hawthorne, Dickens, 
Macready, Bachel, Jenny Lind and a host of other 
famous men and women. 



P&siiim 9$* Mm 4 



THE FLATIRON BUILDING 149 

Consult the New York map again and see how 
Broadway, after running straight up-town a mile and 
a half from the Post Office and St. Paul's, begins to 
slant towards the Hudson river. At Twenty-third street 
it crosses Fifth avenue making a narrow X. Now we 
are going to stand at the edge of Madison Square, and 
look southward so as to see both Broadway and Fifth 
Avenue. 

Position 06. The Flatiron Building the most 
remarkable business structure on earth, Neiv Yorlc 
City 

Madison Square is at your left, beyond those trees. 
The street which you see running straight down-town is 
Fifth Avenue; the one running obliquely is Broadway. 
Twenty-third street crosses them both here, extending 
west (right) to the Hudson and east (left) to the 
East Eiver. 

This grotesque freak of an office building occupies a 
whole "block" such as it is, i. e., the V-shaped space 
between Broadway and Fifth Avenue with a blunt end 
(just wide enough for eight windows) bounded by 
Twenty-second street. Count the stories for yourself 
and then perhaps you can believe (it is not easy) that 
it is almost three hundred feet from the sidewalk up 
to the roof. The audacity of its construction is some- 
thing unparalleled in the history of architecture. It 
has the effect of an account book, with very long and 
narrow pages, its covers slightly spread apart and the 
volume standing on end. Eeally it is much more than 
three hundred feet high, for the steel skeleton (over 
which those stone slabs are fastened) is based far below 
the ground level in order to make it secure and safe. 
There are now a good many buildings taller than this, 
but the fantastically exaggerated slenderness of the 

Position 96, Msp 4 



150 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

"Flatiron" gives it special distinction, and the conveni- 
ence of its location makes it a favorite place for busi- 
ness offices of all sorts. 

It is three quarters of a mile from here southward 
to Washington Square where Fifth Avenue begins (see 
the map). That part of the Avenue used twenty-five 
years ago to be a very elegant residence neighborhood, 
but now most of the old, rich families have moved 
farther north, up-town, and the Avenue below Twenty- 
third street is being used for business. 

New York hotels, or ready-made homes, are more and 
more attracting people away from independent house- 
keeping into a luxurious form of co-operative house- 
keeping. One of the most elegant and expensive of all 
the Manhattan hostelries is the Hotel Astor, a mile 
farther up Broadway after it has crossed Fifth Avenue. 
We will glance into one of its dining-rooms where the 
members of a certain club are assembled under the 
glittering chandeliers. 

Position .97. Dining in the palatial banquet hall 
of Hotel Astor, Neiv YorJc City 

Thousands of New York men and women every night 
from October to May dine with this sort of palatial 
gayety. Fine table linen, gleaming silver, sparkling cut- 
glass, delicate china beautifully decorated, a first-rate 
orchestra giving a concert all through the leisurely meal, 
every sort of delicacy in season and out of season, green- 
house flowers and ferns, women with gowns and jewels 
almost as lovely as the flowers themselves — that is what 
dinner-time means in one of the first-class hotels like 
this. Of course it all has to be paid for. Even if one 
ordered no wines but kept to a comparatively quiet and 

Pveiitetta 96 t 97* Map 4 



ON BROADWAY AND FIFTH AVENUE 15J 

modest menu a guest at the Astor would spend hardly 
less than ten dollars a day, and a good many of the 
Astor guests run the amount up to three times that 
amount. There are private dining rooms here furnished 
as sumptuously as if they were for the use of an em- 
peror, with wall-hangings of silk brocade, and table 
service of solid silver and gold. A dinner for four peo- 
ple in such a private room would probably cost twenty- 
five dollars apiece without wines, and might cost three 
or four times as much if the diners were a particularly 
thirsty sort. On New Year's eve all the fine hotel din- 
ing rooms in town are crowded with gay parties of 
friends (their tables reserved sometimes weeks ahead 
like opera seats), and great festivity marks midnight, 
the coming of the New Year. On an occasion like that 
the diners are not all of a socially correct kind (as they 
are just now), and the fun runs into all sorts of ex- 
travagant hilarity. 

Of course the leaders of really formal society do not 
live in hotels. As everybody knows, there is a two-mile 
stretch of Fifth Avenue along which the houses of multi- 
millionaires with more or less famous names are closely 
packed, often with adjoining side-w r alls, like the dwell- 
ings of common folks. Let us pause again at the point 
on Fifth Avenue where the map marks a red 98. You 
see it is at the corner of 50th street, and the diverging 
lines promise a northward look, up-town. 

Position 98. Fifth Avenue north from St. Patrick's 
Cathedral past the Vanderbilt homes, New York City 

The magnificent Eoman Catholic cathedral is just out 
of sight at your right ; these people are just coming out 
of church on a Sunday noon. 

Position* 97 $ 98* Map 4 



152 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

Those twin houses of brownstone on the west (left) 
side of the street belong to descendants of old Cornelius 
Vanderbilt. Their exterior is not at all showy but they 
are said to be like royal palaces in the matter of interior 
sumptuousness and splendor. One hundred years ago 
Cornelius Vanderbilt was a poor country boy down on 
Staten Island. When he died in 1877 he left a hundred 
millions, made in the shipping business and in railways. 
The gray stone chateau just beyond those brown houses 
also belongs to a Vanderbilt with money almost beyond 
count. That beautiful tower at the corner of Fifty-third 
street marks the church of St. Thomas (Episcopal) ; 
the sharp spire a little farther up the street belongs to 
the Fifth Avenue Presbyterian Church. The tall build- 
ing at the right is a new hotel of the extravagantly 
splendid sort, somewhat like the Hotel Astor (Position 
97). Half a mile ahead, where you see tree foliage, 
Central Park begins ; and Fifth avenue continues along 
its eastern border with houses all the way, but on only 
one side of the thoroughfare, so that all have unob- 
structed outlooks into the park. Every block includes 
homes of men whose names, if not known quite as well 
as the Vanderbilts and Goulds and Astors, stand for 
amounts of property that fairly make one's head swim. 
In a large number of cases the property owners are men 
who have made their own fortunes and not inherited 
them. Andrew Carnegie, for instance, who began at 
ten years of age to work for twenty cents a day, has a 
home on this (east) side of the Avenue opposite Central 
Park. Every nationality is represented in the roll of 
multi-millionaires, — English, Scotch, Irish, French, Ger- 
man, Dutch, Hebrew — Fifth Avenue is as cosmopoli- 
tan as the humbler districts of the city, and offers a 
strikingly suggestive illustration of the way in which 

Position 98* Map 4 



st. Patrick's cathedral, new yobk 153 

America's commercial opportunities know no barrier- 
fences of race or religion. 

The cathedral before which we have been standing is 
one of the most beautiful pieces of pure Gothic archi- 
tecture in the United States and is well worth anybody's 
admiring study. We will enter from the street and look 
eastward along the nave. 

Position 99. Interior of the finest Gothic structure 
in the United States—St. Patrick's Cathedral, New 
YorJc City 

There is the high altar of exquisite Italian marble, 
at the farther end of our vista, almost three hundred 
feet away, with stained glass windows above it making 
a glory of rich color under the arches of the roof. The 
building is so vast that when mass is being said the 
tones of the officiating priest have a far-off effect, 
though no sound is actually lost. A magnificent organ 
is at the west end of the church just behind you, with 
a gallery for the choir. Sometimes a part of the choir 
is stationed temporarily in this long middle aisle, to 
help the congregation sing various parts of the mass. 

Follow with your eye up the strong, noble lines of 
marble pillars beyond the pulpit at the right and the 
bishop's throne at the left. See how each one rises 
higher and higher and higher, to be crowned with a 
carven capital of marble as delicate as frost-work. Then 
see with how exquisite a curve each line begins to bend 
gracefully in, while still it is rising again higher and 
higher, and how at last those upper curves clasp hands 
in pairs away up in the highest part of the vaulted roof 
above the altar. 

And see how the general idea of this lofty upward 
sweep of curving line is echoed again and again else- 

Pasitlon 99. Map 4 



154 THE UNIT«P STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

where in the construction. You find exactly the same 
sort of beauty in those arched openings between the tall 
pillars. You find it again in the shapes of those beauti- 
ful windows. It makes one understand what was meant 
when somebody said that architecture is "f rozen music" ! 

For our last outlook we will continue up-town to 
where you see on the map the number 100 at the west 
side of the city, near the Hudson river. We shall take 
our position on the roof of a tall apartment house be- 
side the fashionable residence street known as Riverside 
Drive. The map shows that we shall have a long out- 
look over the Hudson and the New Jersey shore. 

Position 100. Honored resting-place of General 
Grant— outlook north up the Hudson river, New 
Yorlc City 

You are facing due north, with the greater part of 
the close-built city behind you and off at your right, 
though the extreme northern limits of New York are 
still about eight miles ahead at the north. The street 
down there below you has already come two miles along 
the upper edge of the riverbank, with elegant and daz- 
zlingly expensive houses all along this one side, so that 
each house has its own fine view out over the river. The 
sloping bank between the street and the river shore is a 
public park, where all sorts and conditions of people 
come to enjoy the same sort of prospect that you have 
now, and to get rest and refreshment in breezy sun- 
shine or peaceful moonlight. Do you see a long, low 
building down on the river bank beyond Grant's tomb ? 
That is one of a number of "recreation piers" provided 
by the city along both the Hudson and the East River. 
All through warm weather it is used for free band con- 
certs and for children's playgrounds, with white-aproned 

Position 100. Map 4 



grant's tomb 155 

nurses ready to soothe bumps and good-natured police- 
men ready to stop fun that begins to degenerate into 
rowdyism. 

Thousands of automobiles go whizzing along this 
beautiful driveway every pleasant day. The fine road- 
bed extends for many miles farther uptown. On that 
wooded point which you see projecting into the river 
beyond the tomb there was a fort (Fort Washington) 
in the old Eevolutionary days, when it was still an open 
question whether America was to make her own laws or 
have them made for her over in London. Another fort 
(Fort Lee) stood on that bluff which you see on the 
opposite New Jersey side of the Hudson. The famous 
battle of Harlem Heights was fought by the patriots and 
the British only a few rods from this ground where you 
are now, off at your right, where at present the land is 
part of the campus of Columbia University. 

The dust of General Grant lies in a superb stone 
sarcophagus directly under that lofty dome; in various 
parts of the great interior space — it is as large as a 
magnificent church might be — are memorials of Grant's 
career and of the deeds of other men who shared with 
him the stern experiences of the Civil War. The build- 
ing as you see it now is disappointing from the artistic 
point of view, but that is chiefly because it is unfinished. 
Groups of statuary are some day to surmount the cor- 
ners of that lower, cubical part of the structure; they 
will fill those awkward, angular spaces and make the 
lower and upper parts look as if they belonged together, 
giving the whole an effect of oneness and serenity which 
it lacks at present. It was built by popular subscrip- 
tion, the people's memorial. There is no day in the 
year when the place stands unvisited by men and wo- 
men, by boys and girls. Their own life conditions (be- 



Positloa 100. Map 4 



156 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

cause they are Americans) have been shaped in some 
way, in some degree, by the deeds of the silent, plodding 
American worker and leader who said LET US HAVE 
PEACE. 



WHAT YOU MAY SEE 

These one hundred places have a great deal to give to 
anybody who knows how to see. Remember you are not 
looking at pictures drawn more or less correctly by 
people whose knowledge was more or less accurate and 
complete. You are seeing for yourself the actual facts 
just as they are. These facts are something to be studied 
observantly; to be thought over; to be recalled to mind 
when you read the daily papers, the monthly magazines, 
or books old and new. Watch yourself a bit and notice 
how much more thoroughly alive any printed allusion to 
one of these places becomes for you, after you have in 
this manner seen the place with your own eyes. 

One advantage in this method of seeing important 
places lies in the fact that you can see them over and 
over again. Images held in the memory get faded and 
blurred. You can go back to these one hundred stand- 
points as many times as you please, refreshing old 
memories and finding things you had not noticed before. 
Do not fancy you have seen all there is to see from any 
of these outlooks, when you have given just one hurried 
minute to its study. These one hundred places in our 
beautiful great North American Republic do not so 
easily exhaust the wealth they have to give ! If a person 
gets little from them, that is not their fault, but the 
fault of the careless observer. 

And these one hundred places are worth seeing, — 
worth repeated study and reflection, — in a great many 
different connections. 

Whatever may be the special line of interest to which 
a person is most naturally inclined, a vast, varied land 
like the United States can give him abundant food for 
thought. Notice, as you look over these following pages, 
in how many different ways these one hundred places are 

157 



158 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

ready to give any intelligent observer stores of accurate 
personal knowledge, and honest delight in things that 
were created to give delight, and inspiration, too — that 
last conies when one begins to realize the ages it has 
taken to make this part of the world and the magnificent 
possibilities of life to-day. 

At least a third of these one hundred places are well 
worth seeing for their natural beauty alone, even if one 
did not know much about the places themselves. 



No. 

16 — Natural Bridge, Va. 

21 — Cotton field, Ga. 

24 — Palms at Ormond, Fla. 

25 — Cocoanut trees, Fla. 

34 — Grand Canyon, Ariz. 

35— ' 

37 — Redlands, Cal. 

38 — Santa Barbara Mission, Cal. 

41 — Yosemite Valley, Cal. 

42— 

43— 

44— 

46 — San Francisco bay, Cal. 

47— Mt. Shasta, Cal. 

48 — Columbia river 

50 — Strawberry field, Oregon 

51 — Mt. Hood, Oregon 

52 — Mt. Tacoma, Wash. 

55 — "Old Faithful," Yellowstone Park 

58 — Canyon of the Yellowstone 

60 — Cliff dwellings, Colorado 

63 — Gray's and Torrey's Peaks, Colorado. 

64 — Pike's Peak, Colorado 

67 — A cornfield in Kansas 

69 — The Dalles of Wisconsin river 

74 — Sheep on a Michigan farm 

76 — Niagara Falls 

77 — The Whirlpool rapids, Niagara 

78 — Winter at Niagara 

79 — Horseshoe Curve in Penn. R. R. 

80 — Battleground at Gettysburg 

84 — Hudson river from West Point 
100 — Hudson river from New York City 



tYou have here twenty-three opportunities to study at 



ARCHITECTURE AND INDUSTRY 159 

leisure some of the best things our country has pro- 
duced in the line of architectural and engineering con- 
struction. 



No. 

1 — Washington Monument 

6— United States Capitol 

7 — Congressional Library, exterior 

8 — Congressional Library, staircase 

9 — White House, exterior 

10 — White House, east room 

13 — Lee's old home, Arlington, Va. 

14 — Washington's old home, Mt. Vernon 

15 — XJ. S. battleships 

29 — Eads bridge, St. Louis 

38 — Old Spanish Mission, Cal. 

59 — Mormon Temple and Tabernacle, Utah 

€0 — Cliff dwellings, Colorado 

68— Canal, Sault Ste. Marie 

70 — Grain elevators, Chicago 

83 — Independence Hall, Philadelphia 

86 — Bunker Hill Monument, Boston 

88 — Home of Longfellow and Washington 

90 — Brooklyn Bridge 

94 — Singer and City Investing Bldgs. 

95— St. Paul's Church and Park Row Bldg. 
.96 — Flatiron Bldg. 

99— St. Patrick's Cathedral, interior 



Anybody who is interested in the way in which we 
Americans earn bread and butter has here forty special 
opportunities to see things bearing directly on our in- 
dustrial and commercial problems. 

No. 

2. — U. S. Treasury (into which pour the proceeds of duties on 
imports) 

5— U. S. Capitol 

6 — Joint session of the country's law-makers 

9 — The White House 
10 — The President of the United States 

12 — Room in Dept. of Str.te where foreign policies are discussed 
17— -Beginnings of the turpentine business 
18 — On a rice plantation, S. C. 
20 — In a big cotton mill, S. C. 
21 — On a cotton plantation, Gc. 
25 — Cocoanut palms, Fla. 



160 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEEEOSCOPE 

26 — Shipping sugar, La. 

29 — Eads bridge (carrying important railway lines across the 

Mississippi) 
30 — Stock-raising in Arizona 
36 — Fruit-growing in California 
37 — Land reclaimed by irrigation, California 
39 — Logging in central California 

46 — San Francisco Bay, our great doorway to the Orient 
49 — Shipping timber in the northwest 
50 — Irrigation on a big ranch 

54 — Modern harvesting machinery at work, Washington 
61 — Results of irrigation in Colorado 
62 — Royal Gorge, where a railway creeps through a crevice among 

the Rocky Mountains 
66 — The richest gold field on earth, Colorado 
67 — A cornfield in Kansas 

68 — Freighters passing through canal on the Great Lakes route 
70 — Loading vessel from a grain elevator 
72 — The Stock Yards, Chicago 
73 — In a great meat-packing establishment 
74 — Sheep raising on a Michigan farm 
75 — Unloading iron ore, Cleveland, O. 
79 — Steel works, Homestead, Pa. 
80 — Steel beam 90 ft. long at red heat 
81 — How railways climb the Allegheny Mountains 
90 — Brooklyn Bridge 
91 — New York harbor (where thousands of immigrants come In 

to live and work) 
94 — Sky-scraper 47 stories high and one with 13 acres floor space 
95 — Office building 29 stories high, housing 5,000 workers 
96— The Flatiron Bldg. — utilizing an almost useless ground-space 
98 — Homes of multi-millionaires 

Anybody who is interested to know how our country 
was made ready for humanity to take hold of it, can see 
the Creator's records plainly written in at least twenty- 
two different places. 

No. 

16 — Natural Bridge, Va., carved out by ancient stream 
23 — Beach at Daytona, Fla., where the sand is chiefly the shells 
of sea creatures, pulverized by continued action of the ocean 
waves. 
84— At the Grand Canyon, Arizona — gorge carved by a prehistoric 
river. The horizontal layers or strata which show in some 
of the cliffs indicate that away back even earlier than the 
time of the ancient river this region was part of the bed of 
ft sea; the present rock strata were successive deposits of 
different sorts of mud and gravel. 



HOW THE COUNTRY WAS MADE 161 

35 — Beside the Colorado river; this shows carving done by a 
prehistoric river. 

41 — El Capitan, a cliff in wall of Yosemite valley ; shows some 
of the original stuff of which the earth was made, Just as 
It first cooled. 

43 — "Nearly a mile straight down," shows a boulder which was 
brought twelve miles by an ancient glacier and left on the 
brink of the gorge. 

45 — Sea beach and Seal rocks, San Francisco — shows how ocean 
has cut parts of cliff off from the mainland and how surf 
has broken similar rock fragments up into fine sand. 

47 — Mt. Shasta, Cal. — at head of San Joaquin valley, shows how 
mountain snows furnish water for the streams running 
down into lower districts. 

48 — "Pillars of Hercules" shows how river in old times cut off 
part of cliff just as ocean did at Position 45. 

51 — Mt. Hood, Oregon, renders same sort of service as Mt. Shasta. 
The mountain streams carry pulverized rock fragments down 
into the valleys to help make soil. Such soil, made partly 
by contributions from Mt. Hood, may be seen at Position 
No. 50 — a strawberry field in Hood river valley. 

62 — Glacier on Mt. Tacoma is sliding slowly down mountain- 
side and rasping off rock fragments as it slides. 

53 — Close view of a glacier. 

55 — Geyser in eruption, showing that the interior of our planet 
is not yet cooled off. 

53 — Gorge of Yellowstone river, showing erosive work of ancient 
river, probably made more effective by the waters being hot 
and charged with corroding chemicals. 

60 — Canyon cut out by an old time river, now all dry. 

63— Gray's and Torrey's Peaks, Colo. — mountains that are still 
comparatively "young" from the geological standpoint, re- 
taining sharp edges and corners. Compare with the far 
more ancient Allegheny mountains, seen from Position 81, 
whose angles have been reduced and rounded-down by the 
weathering of much longer periods of time. 

65 — Balancing rock in Garden of the Gods, worn by currents of 
water and winds laden with sand. 

67 — Kansas corn, growing in soil which was once the sediment 
in bottom of an inland sea. Soil now from ten to fifty feet 
deep. 

69 — Dalles of Wisconsin river show erosive work of an older river 
on stratified rocks, i. e. rocks formed by the heating and 
hardening of what were once layers of sediment in the bed 
of an inland sea. In foreground you see a crusty growth 
of gray lichens feeding on the ledges. Lichens of more 
cr less similar sort were among the very first forms of vege- 
table life to appear after the earth's exterior cooled and 
bulged and cracked ; they digested bits of rock and made 
It over into soil capable of supporting still higher forms of 
plant life. 



162 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

76 — Niagara Falls show how the torrent has eaten out a big curve 
from the edge of the farther cliffs. 

81 — In the Allegheny mountains, much more ancient than the 
sharp-peaked Rockies (compare with outlook from Position 
63), as is shown by their subdued and softened contours. 
100 — Hudson river at New York, made much larger than it would 
naturally be by the sinking of the ground in this region 
during some earlier age. Volcanic action thus made it what 
geologists call a "drowned river." 



There are seventeen among these hundred places 
where one gets interesting glimpses of different kinds of 
Americans. 



No. 

6 — Legislators, Cabinet Members, military men and Justices of 
the highest rank 
11 — The President of the United States 
17 — Negro peasants 
18 — Negro plantation hands 
20 — Factory operatives 
21 — Negro plantation hands 
23 — Winter tourists of the moneyed clas3 
30 — Cowboys on a ranch 
31 — Indians of a nomadic tribe 

32 — Indians of a "pueblo" or permanent village tribe 
33 — Indians of a "pueblo" or permanent village tribe 
38 — Celibate brother at a Spanish mission 
39 — Western lumbermen 
66 — Gold-mine workers 
85 — Cadets in training for army officers 
92 — Average New York people on a holiday 
93 — Prosperous middle-class people at dinner 

There are thirteen places where one has a chance to 
see widely different types of American homes. 

No. 

9 — The President's home (exterior) 
10 — The President's home (interior) 
13 — Old colonial mansion at Arlington, Va. 
14 — Old colonial mansion at Mt. Vernon, Va. 
15 — Typical Southern houses of semi-Spanish character 
31 — Indian wigwam 
33 — Indian pueblo houses 
38-~Home of a religious community 
60 — Homes of ancient Indian peoples 
8'8 — Old colonial mansion, New England 



HISTORIC PLACES 163 

89 — Old colonial mansion, New England 

97 — A typical city hotel dining room of the very expensive grade 

98 — Homes of multi-millionaires 



Five of these one hundred places remind us of the wide 
variety of religious life in our land where freedom of 
conscience is secured by law. 



No. 
33 — Religious dance to propitiate the rain-gods (Pagan) 
38 — Institutional church and home of a religious order (Roman 

Catholic) 
59 — Temple and Tabernacle at Salt Lake City (Mormon) 
95 — St. Paul's church, where special services were held as a part 

of the inauguration of our first President (Protestant) 
99 — St. Patrick's cathedral, one of the most beautiful in America 

(Roman Catholic) 



Thirty of these one hundred places are indirectly as- 
sociated with important events or movements or epochs 
in our national history, and with the careers of our 
great men. 



No. 

1 — Memorial to George Washington 

5 — A great number of our national leaders all through the last 

hundred years. 
6 — All the important debates of the House since 1859 have taken 

place in this room. 
9 — All the Presidents after Washington lived here. The Cabinet 
meetings have also been held here. 

10 — Distinguished guests, both American and foreign, have been 
entertained here. 

12 — Conferences held in this room with official representatives 
of foreign nations have influenced the shaping of our laws 
and often helped straighten out what might have been serious 
International disagreements. 

13 — Home of the Confederate leader whose nobility is now hon- 
ored by men on both sides of our great national conflict. 
The grounds surrounding the houses are used as a national 
cemetery for U. S. soldiers. 

14 — Home of Washington, directly associated with his life as our 
President, and after his retirement from office. 

15 — Among these very vessels are some that made splendid rec- 
ords in the Spanish war. 

19 — Where the Civil War began In 1861. 

22 — In a city that used to be part of the kingdom of Spain, and 



1(34 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

that was pillaged in Queen Elizabeth's time by Sir Francis 
Drake's men, on one of their voyages from "the Spanish 
Main." 

26 — Beside the river that De Soto explored in the 16th century, 
opening up for Spain new lands that we afterwards bought 
from France. 

27 — Where the "battle above the clouds" was fought during the 
Civil War. 

31 — Indian descendants of a tribe that used, long ago, to live up 
near the Great Lakes and the country of Hiawatha. 

32 — One of the Indian pueblos or cliff towns, whose reputed riches 
led the first Spanish explorers up from Mexico. 

38 — The romantic landmark of what was once an important Span- 
ish movement up the Pacific coast. 

48 — Columbia river (formerly called the Oregon river), explored 
by Lewis and Clark in 1804-5. 

60 — Fortified homes of Indians who lived in Colorado before 
white men knew America at all 

79 — Steel works, where some of the many millions of our famous 
"star spangled Scotchman" (Carnegie) were made. 

82 — Decisive ground on the battlefield of Gettysburg. 

83 — Where the Declaration of Independence was adopted, signed, 
announced and first read to the public. This means associa- 
tion with a great number of the most important men of that 
period in our history. 

84 — Where Hudson sailed on his voyage of exploration in 1609. 
Where military movements took place in the French and 
Indian Wars and the Revolutionary War. The cannon along 
bank were captured during the Mexican war. Grant, Lee, 
Sheridan, Sherman, Wheeler, "Stonewall" Jackson and other 
famous men of later times were once cadets here. 

86 — Memorial of one of the famous battles of our Revolutionary 
War. 

87 — Where popular meetings and political discussions helped make 
American history from Washington's time down through our 
Civil War. 

88 — Where Washington had his headquarters when he took com- 
mand of the patriot army. Longfellow afterwards lived 
here and received as guests hundreds of the most distin- 
guished men and women of his day. 

89 — Home of James Russell Lowell, whose genius helped to 
shape American literature and to win foreign respect for 
American books. 

91 — The harbor where Hudson sailed in and out, and the ground 
where the Dutch East India Company (on the strength of 
his report) established a fur-trading port — an enterprise 
which has developed until now the settlement has grown 
into the second largest city on earth. A good many of 
America's adopted sons, who are now prosperous, loyal and 
solidly helpful citizens, once landed here as new immigrants. 

95 — St. Paul's Church was standing in Washington's time, and 



WONDERS OF THE UNITED STATES Jg5 

many of the foremost men of that day said their prayers 
•within its walls. The Astor House was for two generations 
a favorite temporary home for our most distinguished states- 
men and foreign visitors. 
98 — Homes built and supported by the Vanderbilt fortune — gained 
by developing America's shipping and railway facilities. 
100 — Memorial tomb of General Grant. 

Fifty-nine (more than half) of these one hundred 
places are wonders of their kind, deserving superlatives 
when compared with the rest of the world. 

No. 

1 — Tallest stone structure In the world (Washington Monument) 
5 — Where laws are made by chosen citizens of the earth's great- 
est republic (U. S. Capitol) 
7-8 — Most magnificent public library in the world (Congressional 
Library) 

14 — Home of the man whom Frederick the Great called "the great- 
est general in the world" (George Washington) 

15 — Where cannon shot began a war to decide the question of in- 
divisible unity in the world's greatest field of popular self- 
government 

21 — Harvesting part of a crop worth annually over $320,000,000 

23 — One of the finest race-tracks in the world, a natural sea beach 
thirty miles long (Florida) 

25 — Trees with luscious, juicy fruit, growing in clear white sand 
(Coeoanuts in Florida) 

27 — Where an important battle was fought "above the clouds'* 
(Lookout Mountain) 

29 — One of the largest rivers on earth (Mississippi, 2,000 miles 
long, or 3,900 if the Missouri is regarded as its upper course) 

30 — One of the largest stock farms in the world (Arizona) 

32 — One of the most picturesque native towns of an aboriginal 
people (pueblo Indians) 

33 — One of the most curious religious ceremonies to be seen in 
the western hemisphere 

34-35 — The most marvelously picturesque river gorge known to 
mankind. 

36-37 — Some of the most strikingly successful achievements of 
modern scientific farming (irrigated land in California) 

40 — One of the biggest trees now alive — perhaps as old as the 
Christian religion 

41 — A solid mountain-side of the earth's original stuff Just as It 
first cooled (granite wall of El Capitan, Yosemite) 

42-43-44 — Glimpses of one of the most celebrated valleys in the 
world (Yosemite) 

45 — Outlook over the earth's greatest ocean (Pacific at San 
Francisco) 

49 — One of the biggest and most valuable rafts ever put together 
by human hands (logs on the Columbia river) 



1(36 THE UNITED STATES THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 

50 — Where pleasure parties climb over an ice river at an angle 
of nearly 45 degrees (glacier on Mt. Tacoma) 

54 — One of the biggest grain fields in the world, with harvesting 
done by marvelous modern machinery (Washington) 

55 — The most celebrated volcanic spring in the world (Yellow- 
stone park) 

56 — Specimens of one of the finest native animals of the western 
world, now almost extinct (buffalo, or American bison) 

58 — Extraordinary river gorge cut out by hot floods charged with 
corrosive chemicals (Yellowstone river) 

59 — Religious centre of one of the queerest religious sects known 
in modern times (Mormons at Salt Lake City) 

60 — Mysterious, abandoned homes of an unknown people who 
migrated before America's written history began (Mesa 
Verde, Colo.) 

62 — Where a railway creeps through a mountain crevice 30 feet 
wide and half a mile deep (Royal Gorge, Colo.) 

63 — Looking from the highest point reached by any regular 
railway, 14,007 ft., or nearly three miles above sea level 
(Mt. McClellan, Colo.) 

66 — Mines in the world's richest gold field (Cripple Creek district, 
Colo.) 

67 — Farming region where rich black soil is sometimes 50 feet 
deep (eastern Kansas) 

68' — Where steamships go up and down stairs 17 feet on their 
way from one lake port to another (canal at Sault Ste. 
Marie) 

70 — One of the most curiously designed freight boats ever invented 
(a "whaleback" at Chicago) 

71 — One of the longest business streets in the world (Chicago) 

72 — In the largest live-stock market in the world (Chicago) 

73 — In one of the largest meat packing establishments in the 
world (Armour's, Chicago) 

77 — The most famous waterfall in the world (Niagara) 

79 — Part of the "plant" of one of the richest business corporations 
in the world (U. S. Steel Co., Homestead, Pa.) 

82 — Scene of one of the most frightful battles in modern war- 
fare (Gettysburg) 

83 — Place where the earth's greatest experiment in popular gov- 
ernment officially began (Independence Hall, Phila.) 

84 — One of the loveliest rivers known to "globe trotters" (the 
Hudson) 

86 — Place where a lost battle has ever since been celebrated by 
the losers, because it helped gain a great cause (Bunker 
Hill) 

87 — A public hall, which has seen more important popular meet- 
ings than any other room in the world 

88 — Home of the most widely known and loved of all American 
writers — his works being translated into nearly every civil- 
ized language 

91 — Harbor, which has received more home-seeking immigrants 
than any other port on the globe (New York) 



WONDERS OF THE UNITED STATES \ffl 

92-93 — At the most popular amusement resort on earth, where 

100,000 people often go for a half-holiday (Coney Island) 
94 — Two of the most marvelous "sky-scraper" structures of steel 

and stone ever put together (Singer and City Investing 

Bldgs., New York) 
95 — One of the most curious contrasts of old and new to be found 

on earth (St. Paul's church and graveyard below a 29-story 

office building, New York) 
96 — The most amazing "freak" building in the world (Flatiron, 

New York) 
97 — In one of the most gorgeous and expensive hotels in the world 

(Hotel Astor, New York) 
98 — Among the homes of some of the richest men now alive 

(Fifth Avenue, New York) 
99— One of the best pieces of pure Gothic architecture in America 

(St. Patrick's cathedral, New York) 
100 — Memorial tomb of one of the greatest military commanders 

of modern times (Ulysses S. Grant) 



BOOKS WORTH READING 

The amount of interesting and profitable reading that 
might be done in connection with this tour is limited 
only by a reader's time, his access to good libraries, and 
the length of his purse. Only a very few out of a great 
many desirable works are included in the following list. 
It is not claimed that these are the only good things in 
their several lines, but they certainly are all good. 

U. S. History Before Men Lived Here 

N. S. Shaler's Story of our Continent is a reliable 
and readable account of the origin of its land and water 
forms, from the standpoint of a distinguished geologist. 

IT. S. History, Political and Social 
John Fiske's histories (Houghton Mifflin Co.) are 

recognized as standard authority in point of scholarship, 

and they are at the same time delightful reading. See 

Discovery of America 

Old Virginia and Her Neighbors 

The Dutch and Quaker Colonies in America 

The Beginnings of New England 

The American Revolution 

The Critical Period of American History (1784-1789) 
Woodrow Wilson's History of the American People 

(Harper, 5 vols.) covers the period from the discovery 

of America down to 1900. 

Henry Cabot Lodge's Story of the Revolution (Scrib- 
ner; 2 vols.) is good for that section of time. 

John Bach McMaster's History of the People of the 
United States from the Revolution to the Civil War 
(Appleton, 7 vols.) begins with the close of the Kevo- 
lutionary War and ends with conditions before the out- 
break of the Civil War. 

168 



BOOKS WORTH READING 169 

Theodore Koosevelt's The Winning of the West (Put- 
nam, 5 vols.) is probably the best history we have of 
the movement of our colonial frontiersmen inland over 
the Alleghenies and down into what is now the rich and 
powerful Middle West. 

Histories of the Civil War are almost endless in num- 
ber and give a chance to hear the story from both sides. 
In this connection it is of immense importance to con- 
sult standard biographies of some of the greatest men 
of that period, e. g. John Hay's Life of Lincoln, Thomas 
Nelson Page's Life of Robert E. Lee, etc., etc. 

E. Benjamin Andrews' The United States in Our Own 
Time (Scribner) covers the period from the close of 
the Civil War through McKinley's administration and 
the Spanish War. 

Theodore Koosevelt's The Rough Riders (Scribner) 
gives a vivid idea of the most notable land campaign of 
the Spanish War. 

John R. Spears' Our Navy in the War with Spain 
(Scribner) is one of the best things on that side of our 
operations. 

U. S. History, Industrial 

Carroll D. Wright's Industrial Evolution of the Unit- 
ed States is a popular condensation of the story. Of 
course the complete following-out of any one line of in- 
dustry would mean reading an immense amount of spe- 
cialized literature. 

How U. S. Geography Helped Shape its History 

Those who like to question why, as well as what, will 
find very interesting and accurate treatment of this sub- 
ject in: — Ellen Churchill Semple's American History 
and its Geographic Conditions (Houghton Mifflin Co.) 

Albert Perry Brigham's Geographic Influences in 
American History (Ginn). 

The People of the United States 

Authors of the histories mentioned in the second sec- 
tion of this list naturally give attention to the question 
as to what kinds of people had a hand in making the 



170 THE UNITED STATES THBOUGH THE STEBEOSCOPE 

beginnings of our national life. Readers who want re- 
liable information and tremendously suggestive ideas 
about the newer elements in our population would do 
well to see such books as the following : — 

Jacob Riis' The Making of an American, — a most en- 
tertaining piece of autobiography and full of inspiration 
to other Americans, either new or old. 

E. A. Steiner's On the Trail of the Immigrant (Re- 
veil) — a study of the old home conditions of our newer 
citizens, and the varied inheritance they bring with them. 

John R. Commons' Races and Immigrants in America 
(MacMillan) — a careful study of the different elements 
that make up our population. 

Booker T. Washington's Up from Slavery is autobio- 
graphical. His Story of the Negro (Doubleday, Page & 
Co., 2 vols.) is a scholarly study of the race as a whole, 
its primitive conditions and the way it has been modified 
and developed through forced emigration, slavery and 
enfranchisement. 

American People As Seen by Foreigners 
James Bryce's work, The American Commonwealth, 
though not a recent book (1888), is regarded as one of 
the most valuable studies in this line. It deals with 
our characteristic institutions and the principles un- 
derlying them, from the standpoint of a broad-minded 
British historian and statesman, of Irish birth. 

Hugo Miinsterberg's American Traits is a serious and 
candid study of us from the standpoint of a highly edu- 
cated German. His other book called The Americans is 
a translation of a w r ork which he wrote for publication 
in Germany, intending it only for readers in the Kaiser's 
empire. 

Abbe Klein's In the Land of the Strenuous Life gives 
a chance to see our own country through the eyes of a 
French priest of the Catholic Church. 

Max O'RelPs A Frenchman in America (Cassell. The 
author's real name is Paul Blouet), is a very clever and 
amusing book, not serious in its tone like Professor 



BOOKS WORTH READING 171 

Miinsterberg's. The same comment holds true of 
Blouet's Jonathan and His Continent (Cassell). 

George Warrington Steevens' The Land of the Dollar 
(Blackwood) is a shrewd and kindly study of our coun- 
try and our ways/ written by a British newspaper cor- 
respondent. 

The United States Government publishes an immense 
amount of information about our natural resources, our 
population, our industries, and our commerce, both home 
and foreign. Some of the publications can be obtained 
without any expense; some are furnished for compara- 
tively small prices. For title lists of Government pub- 
lications in any special line, address the Government 
Printing Office, Washington, D. C. 



INDEX TO STEREOGRAPHS AND BOOK 



Adams, Mt., 85. 

Alligators, 45. 

Ambassadors and Ministers, 29. 

Amusements at Coney Island, 
144. 

Architecture of a Gothic cathe- 
dral, 153. 
city skyscrapers, 146, 147, 
149. 

Arizona, cattle raising in, 53. 
Indians of, 55, 58, 60. 
Grand Canyon, 62, 63. 

Arkansas river, Royal Gorge of, 
102. 

Arlington, Va., 31. 

Astor, Hotel (new), 150. 
old hotel, 148. 

Astor, J. J., 82, 83. 

Atlantic surf, Coney Island, 144. 

Automobiling in Florida, 44. 



B 



Balancing rock, Colo., 105. 
Baskets, Indian use of, 59. 
Bathing at Coney Island beach, 

144. 
Battery (New York), 141. 
Battle above the clouds, 48. 

of Bunker Hill, 134. 

of Gettysburg, 127. 
Battleships, 33. 
Bear, grizzly, 94. 
Beauty in a skyscraper, 146. 
Big trees, 69, 71. 
Books on American history, 129, 
130, 132, 135, 168, 169. 

American Indians, 57, 61, 
110, 126, 132. 

big game hunting, 94. 

Chicago life, 112, 113. 

Colorado scenery, 104. 

cowboy life, 55. 

early times in California, 69, 
80. 

experiences in battle, 128. 

frontier life, 95, 126. 

geology of the U. S., 168. 

grain speculation, 112. 

Grand Canyon of the Colo- 
rado, 63, 65. 

Hampton Roads sea-fight, 34. 

Immigration, 170. 

Kansas life ("A Certain Rich 



Man"), 108. 

legends of the Hudson river 
country, 132. 

life along the Mississippi, 50, 
52. 

life at West Point, 134. 

life in old Virginia, 32. 

life in the Tennessee moun- 
tains, 49. 

Louisiana plantation life, 47. 

meat-packing establishments 
("The Jungle"), 116. 

negro character and life, 37, 
42, 170. 

Niagara Falls, 123. 

old New York, 143. 

Philadelphia, 130. 

San Francisco, 80. 

U. S. by foreign writers, 170. 

Washington, D. C, 30. 

Yellowstone Park, 96. 

Yosemite Valley, 77. 
Boston, Bunker Hill monument, 
134. 

Faneuil Hall, 136. 
Bridge, Brooklyn, 140. 

Eads (St. Louis), 51. 
Buffalo, wild, 93. 
Building, City Investing, 146. 

Flatiron, 149. 

Park Row, 147. 

Singer, 146. 

World, 140. 
Bull Hill (Cripple Creek), 106. 
Bunker Hill monument, 134. 



Cabinet meetings, place of, 18. 
Cadets at West Point, 131, 132. 
California the door to Orient, 78. 

big trees of, 69, 71. 

fruit growing in, 65. 

irrigation in, 66. 

mountains of, 65, 74, 76, 81. 

sea-beach, 77. 

Spanish in, 68. 

Yosemite Valley, 72, 73, 74, 
76. 
Cambridge, home of Longfellow, 
137. 

home of Lowell, 138'. 
Canal at the "Soo," 108. 
Canyon, Grand, 62, 63. 

of the Yellowstone, 95. 



174 



INDEX 



Capitol, U. S., 19, 20, 21. 

view from, 24. 
Carnegie, Andrew, 123, 152. 
Cascade Mts., 88, 89. 
Castle Garden, N. Y., 143. 
Cathedral of St. Patrick, 153. 
Cattle market, 114. 

raising, 53. 

transportation, 53. 
Charleston harbor, 38. 
Chattanooga, 48. 
Chicago, grain elevators, 111. 

State St., 113. 

stockyards, 114. 
Church, St. Paul's, 148. 
City Investing Bldg., N. Y., 146. 
Civil War, 31, 33, 38, 48, 127, 

155. 
Clay, Henry (quoted), 35. 
Cleveland, handling ore at, 118. 
Cliff dwellings in Colo., 98. 
Cliff House, San Francisco, 77. 
Climbing a glacier, 89. 
Cocoanuts, 46. 
Colorado, cliff dwellings in, 98. 

fruit raising in, 100. 

Garden of the Gods, 104. 

irrigation in, 100. 

mining in, 100, 106. 

mountains of, 102, 103. 

Royal Gorge, 102. 
Colorado river, Grand Canyon of, 

62, 63. 
Columbia river, 82, 84. 
Combined harvesting machinery, 

90. 
Coney Island, 144. 
Congress, joint session of, 22. 
Congressional library, 19, 24, 25. 
"Converted mountain," a, 67. 
Converse Basin, logging at, 69. 
Corn in Kansas, 107. 
Cotton growing, 41. 

manufactures, 39. 
Cowboy life, 53. 
Cradle of Liberty, the, 136. 
Cripple Creek mines, 106. 



Dalles of Wisconsin river, 111. 
Dance for the rain-gods, 60. 
Daytbna sea-beach, 44. 
Declaration of Independence, 129. 
Desert in Arizona, 55, 58. 
Desert land, reclamation of, 66. 
Dining at New York hotel, 150. 
Diplomatic conferences, 29. 



East Room in White House, 27. 
El Capitan, 72. 
Elevators, grain, 111. 
Erosion of gorge at Grand Can- 
yon, 63, 64. 



Niagara, 20, 21, 22. 
Yellowstone Park, 95. 



Factory work, 39, 40, 51, 136. 
Falls, Niagara, 120, 122. 

Yosemite, 74, 75. 
Faneuil Hall, 136. 
Fifth Avenue, N. Y., 149, 151. 
Flatiron Building, 149. 
Florida, cocoanuts in, 46. 

palms in, 45. 

sea beach in, 44. 

Spanish remains in, 43. 
Fort Sumter, 38. 



Garden of the Gods, Balancing 
Rock in, 105. 

Gateway of, 103. 

Pike's Peak from, 103. 
Georgia, cotton in, 41. 
Gettysburg, battle of, 127. 
Geysers in Yellowstone Park, 91. 
Glacier Point, 74. 
Glaciers, marks of, 76, 77. 

nature of, 87, 88, 89. 

on Mt. Tacoma, 88, 89. 
Gorge, Royal, 102. 
Grain growing, 90, 107. 

handling, 111. 
i harvesting, 90. 

shipping, 91, 109. 

storing, 111. 
Grand Canyon, 62, 63. 
Grand River valley. Colo., 100. 
Granite rock, age of, 73. 
Grant, Gen., 28, 132, 155. 
Gray's Peak, 102. 
Grizzly bear, 94. 
Gulf Stream, effect of, 46. 






H 

Hall, Faneuil, 136. 

Independence, 129. 
Hampton Roads, 33. 
Hance's Cove, Grand Canyon, 62. 
Harbor, New York, 141. 

San Francisco, 79. 
Harvesting grain, 90. 
Hiawatha country, the, 110. 
Hogans of Navajo Indians, 56. 
Hogs, slaughtering, 115. 
Home of Lee, 31. 

Longfellow, 137. 

Lowell, 138. 

the Vanderbilts, 152. 

Washington, 32, 137, 140. 
Homestead, Pa., 123. 
Hood, Mt., 86. 
Hood river valley, 85. 
Hopi Indians, 56, 5S, 60. 



INDEX 



175 



Horseshoe Curve, Perm. R. R., 

125. 
Hot Springs, see Geysers. 
Hotel Astor, N. T., 150. 
Hudson River, 130, 131. 



Ice "bridge" at Niagara, 122. 
Immigration, 142, 170. 
Illinois, see Chicago. 
Independence Hall, 129. 
Indians in Arizona, 55, 58, 60. 

in Colorado, 99. 

in Wisconsin, 110. 
Industrial development, 39, 50, 

66, 67, 90, 100, 106, 109. 
Iron ore, handling, 118. 

making into steel, 123, 124. 

transporting, 109. 
Irrigation in Cal., 66, 67. 

Colo., 100. 

Ore., 85. 

S. C, 37. 



Jordan, David Starr (quoted), 63. 



K 



Kansas, corn in, 107. 
Katchina dance, 60. 
Kiwas of Indians, 60. 



Lake Worth, 46. 
Lakes, Great, 108, 119, 121. 
Lee, Robert E., 31, 132. 
Levees of the Mississippi, 48. 
Library of Congress, 19, 24, 25. 
Locks of "Soo" canal, 109. 
Log raft, Columbia river, 84. 
Longfellow's home, 137. 
Lookout mountain, 48. 
Louisiana, sugar in, 47. 
Louisiana Purchase, 50. 
Lowell's old home, 138. 
Lumber in Cal., 69. 

on Columbia river, 84. 



M 



Map system, explanation of, 12. 
Mariposa grove of big trees, 71. 
Mark Twain, 50, 52. 
Massachusetts, see Boston 

Cambridge. 
Merrimac and Monitor, 34. 
Mesa dwellings, 58, 99. 
Mesa Verde Park, Colo., 98. 
Michigan, Sault canal, 108. 
sheep in, 117. 



and 



Mining in Cal., 80* 

Colo., 100, 106. 
Missions in Cal., 68. 
Mississippi river, 47, 51. 
Missouri, see St. Louis. 
Monument, Bunker Hill, 134. 

Washington, 16, 18, 19. 
Mormon buildings, 96. 
Mt. Adams, 85. 

Hoed, 86. 

McClellan, 102. 

Rainier, 88, 89. 

Shasta, 81. 

Tacoma, 88, 89. 
Mount Vernon, 32. 
Mountains, Appalachian, 125. 

Cascade, 88, 89. 

Rocky, 102, 103. 

Sierra Nevada, 74, 76, 81. 



N 



35. 



National Cemetery, Arlington, 31. 

National Park, Yellowstone, 91, 

93, 94, 95. 

Yosemite, 72. 
Natural Bridge, Va., 
Navajo Indians, 55. 
Navy, U. S., 33. 
Negro laborers, 36, 38, 44. 
New Orleans, shipping at, 47. 
New York, Hudson river, 130, 
131, 154. 

N. Y. City, 139. 

West Point, 131, 132. 
N. Y. City, Astor Hotel, 150. 

Astor House, 148. 

Broadway, 145, 149. 

Brooklyn Bridge, 140. 

Cathedral, 153. 

City Investing Bldg., 146. 

Coney Island, 144. 

East river, 140. 

Fifth Ave., 149, 151. 

Flatiron Bldg., 149. 

Grant's tomb, 154. 

Harbor, 141. 

Hudson river, 154. 

Immigration at, 142, 170. 

Park Row Bldg., 147. 

Riverside Park, 154. 

St. Paul's Church, 145, 148. 

Singer Bldg;, 146. 

Vanderbilt houses, 152. 

World Bldg., 140. 
Niagara Falls, 20, 22. 

River, 20, 21, 22. 
Nisqually glacier, 88. 
N. C, turpentine in, 36. 



Ohio, see Cleveland. 
Old Faithful (geyser), 91. 
Orange growing, 65. 
Ore, handling iron, 118. 



176 



INDEX 



Oregon, Columbia river, 82, 84. 
Hood river valley, 85. 
Mt. Hood, 86. 



Pacific ocean at San Francisco, 

77. 
Painted Desert, Ariz., 58. 
Park Row Bldg., New York, 147. 
Peach culture, Colo., 100. 
Peak, Gray's, 102. 
Pike's, 103. 
Torrey's, 102. 
Pennsylvania, Gettysburg, 127. 
Philadelphia, 129. 
Pittsburgh and vicinity, 123, 

124. 
Penn. Ave., Washington, 20, 24. 
Penn. R. R., Horseshoe Curve, 

125. 
Philadelphia, Independence Hall, 

129. 
Pillars of Hercules, 82. 
Pike's Peak, 103. 
Pines, turpentine from, 36. 
Pork packing, 115. 
Post Office, General, 20. 
President of the U. S., 27, 28. 
Pueblo Indians, 57. 



Rain, lack of, Ariz., 59. 

Cal., 65, 66. 
Rain-gods' dance, Ariz., 60. 
Rainier Mt., 88, 89. 
Ranch, cattle, 53. 
Rapids, Whirlpool, 121. 
R. R. curve in Penn., 125. 
Redlands, Cal., 67. 
Representatives, Hall of, 22. 

session of, 23. 
Revolutionary War, 129, 131, 
132, 134, 135, 136, 138, 
155. 
Rice growing, 37. 
River, Colorado, 62. 

Columbia, 82, 84. 

Hudson, 130, 131. 

Merced, 72. 

Mississippi, 47, 51. 

Niagara, 20, 21, 22. 

Ste. Marie, 108. 

Tennessee, 48. 

Wisconsin, 111. 

Yellowstone, 95. 
Riverside, Cal., 65. 
Roosevelt, Theodore, 28', 126. 
Round-up on a cattle ranch, 53. 
Royal Gorge, Colo., 102. 



St. Augustine, Fla., 43. 
St. Louis, bridge over Mississippi, 
51. 
street scene in, 50. 



St. Paul Bldg., N. Y., 147. 

Church, N. Y., 145, 148. 
Salt Lake City, 96. 
San Francisco harbor, 79. 

sea-beach, 77. 
Santa Barbara Mission, 68. 
Sault Ste. Marie canal, 108. 
Sea beach, Coney Island, 144. 

Florida, 44. 

San Francisco, 77. 
Seals at San Francisco, 78. 
Senate, U. S., Hall of, 22. 

in a joint session, 23. 
Sequoia trees, 69, 71. 
Shasta, Mt., 81. 
Sheep in Mich., 117. 

southwest, 56. 
Shonghopavi village, 60. 
Singer Bldg., N. Y., 146. 
Skyscrapers, beauty in, 146. 
Smithsonian Inst., Wash., 19. 
"Soo" canal, 108. 
S. C, cotton mill in, 39. 

Fort Sumter, 38. 

rice in, 37. 
Spanish in Ariz., 57, 58. 

Cal., 68. 

Fla., 43. 
Spanish War, 34. 
State, War and Navy Bldg., 

Wash., IS. 
State St., Chicago, 113. 
Steel, manufacture of, 123, 124. 
Stereographs, how to use, 14. 

vs. "pictures," 10, 11. 
Stereoscope, use of, 10, 11, 14. 
Stevens glacier, 89. 
Stevenson, R. L. (quoted), 79. 
Stock-yards, Chicago, 114. 
Stratified rocks, significance of, 

73. 
Strawberries in Oregon, 85. 
Sugar in La., 47. 
Sumter, Fort, 38. 
Supreme Court Room, 22. 

Justices of, 23. 



Tabernacle, Mormon, 96. 
Tacoma, Mt., 88, 89. 
Temple, Mormon, 96. 
Tenn., Lookout Mt., 48. 
Tennessee river, 48. 
Timber in Cal., 69, 71. 

northwest, 84. 
Tomb of U. S. Grant, 155. 
TOrrey's Peak, Colo., 102. 
Treasury, U. S., 18'. 

view from, 20. 
Turpentine industry, 36. 



U 



U. S. Military Academy, grounds 
of, 131, 132. 

Utah, Mormon centre in, 96. 



INDEX 



177 



Va., Arlington, 31. 

Hampton Roads, 33. 
Mt. Vernon, 32. 
Natural bridge, 35. 
Volcanic action in Yellowstone 

Park, 91, 96. 
Volcano, Mt. Shasta an extinct, 
81. 

w 

Walla Walla, harvesting near, 90. 
War, Civil, 31, 33, 38, 48, 127, 

155 
of 18i2, 119. 
Revolutionary, 129, 131, 132, 

134, 135, 136, 138, 155. 
Spanish, 34. 
Wash. (D. C), Capitol, 19, 20, 

21, 22, 23. 
Congressional Library, 19, 

24, 25. 
Diplomatic Room, 29. 
East Room, 27. 
Joint session of Congress, 22. 
Monument, 16, 18, 19. 
Penn. Ave., 20, 24. 
President of U. S., 27, 28. 
Supreme Court, 22, 23. 
Treasury, 18, 20. 
White House, 18, 26. 



Wash. (State), Columbia river, 
82, 84. 
harvesting in, 90. 
Mt. Tacoma, 88, 89. 
Washington, George, 16, 31, 32, 
35, 129, 132, 137, 140, 148. 
Washington Monument, 16, 18, 

19. 
Water privileges, 66, 67, 85. 
Wawona (big tree), 71. 
West Point, cadets at, 132. 

view from, 131. 
Whaleback vessels, 108, 111. 
Wheat, harvesting, 90. 

storage of, 111. 
White House, the, 18, 26. 
Winter at Niagara, 122. 
Wisconsin river, 111. 
Wolpi, village of, 58'. 



Yellowstone Park, animals in, 93, 
94. 

canyon of, 95. 

discovery of, 92. 

geysers in, 91. 
Yosemite Valley, discovery of, 75. 

El Capitan, 72. 

Glacier Point, 74. 

Merced River, 72. 

North Dome, 76, 77. 

origin of, 73, 76. 

Yosemite Falls, 74, 75. 



UNDERWOOD 

STEREOSCOPIC TOURS 



The scenes comprising these Tours are carefully selected by persons of 
wide experience and liberal education. Patrons get the best satisfaction 
from the Tours by taking them as arranged. One hundred stereographed 
places of one country, systematically arranged, are generally found much 
more desirable than the same number of scenes scattered over several coun- 
tries. Many patrons are placing all these Tours in the libraries of their homes. 
Schools and public libraries are turning more and more to the stereoscope to 
put students and readers in touch with the actual places of which they are 
studying. 

Guide Books are now ready for a considerable number of the Tours, as 
will be seen by referring to the following list. Patent Key Maps, by which 
each scene is definitely located, go with these books. Each Guide Book is 
written by a well-known author, thoroughly conversant with the country, 
city or locality which the Tour covers; the writer assumes the role of a 
personal guide, standing by the side of the traveler on the spot. 

The Tours are supplied in convenient Volume Cases (shaped like books) 
or in Extension Cabinets. 

AUSTRIA TOUR— Giving 84 positions. 

BELGIUM TOUR — Giving 24 positions, with explanatory notes.* 

BRITISH-BOER WAR— Giving 36 positions. 

BURMA TOUR — Giving 50 positions. 

CANADA TOUR — Giving 72 positions, with explanatory notes.* 

CEYLON TOUR — Giving 30 positions, with explanatory notes.* 

CHILDREN'S TOUR— Giving 18 positions ("Real Children in Many 
Lands") — with guide book by M. S. Emery, 222 pages, cloth. 

CHINA TOUR— Giving 100 positions, with guide book by Prof. James 
Ricalton, 358 pages, cloth, and eight Underwood patent maps. 

CUBA AND PORTO RICO TOUR— Giving 100 positions. 

DENMARK TOUR — Giving 36 positions. 

ECUADOR TOUR— Giving 42 positions. 

EGYPT TOUR — Giving 100 positions, with explanatory notes,* guide book 
by James H. Breasted, Ph.D., 360 pages, cloth, and twenty Underwood 
patent maps. 

ENGLAND TOUR— Giving 100 positions. 

FRANCE TOUR— Giving 100 positions. 

GERMANY TOUR— Giving 100 positions, with explanatory notes * 

GREECE TOUR— Giving 100 positions, with guide book by Eufus B. 
Richardson, Ph.D., 363 pages, cloth, and fifteen Underwood patent 
maps. 

♦These explanatory notes are printed on the backs of the stereograph cards. 



HAND COLORED SERIES — (These consist of choice scenes from various 
parts of the world.) 
Series No. i — Giving 100 positions. 
Series No. 2 — Giving 72 positions. 
Series No. 3 — Giving 36 positions. 
Series No. 4 — Giving 24 positions. 

HOLLAND TOUR — Giving 24 positions, with explanatory notes * 

INDIA TOUR — Giving 100 positions, with explanatory notes,* guide book 
by Prof. James Ricalton, 383 pages, cloth, and ten Underwood patent 
maps. 

IRELAND TOUR— Giving 100 positions, with explanatory notes* guide 
book by Charles Johnston, 262 pages, cloth, and seven Underwood 
patent maps. 

ITALY TOUR— Giving 100 positions, with guide book by D. J. Ellison, D.D., 
and Prof. James C. Egbert, Jr., Ph.D., 602 pages, cloth, and ten Under- 
wood patent maps 

JAMAICA TOUR— Giving 24 positions. 

JAPAN TOUR — Giving 100 positions, with explanatory notes.* 

JAVA TOUR— Giving 36 positions. 

KOREA TOUR— Giving 48 positions. 

MANCHURIA TOUR— Giving 18 positions. 

MEXICO TOUR— Giving 100 positions. 

NORWAY TOUR — Giving 100 positions, with explanatory notes,* guide 
book, edited by Prof. Julius E. Olson, with an introduction by Hon. 
Knute Nelson, 372 pages, cloth, with eight Underwood patent maps. 

PALESTINE TOUR— Giving 100 positions (the Holy Land), with guide 
book by Rev. Jesse L. Hurlbut, D.D., 220 pages, cloth, and seven Under- 
wood patent maps. 

PALESTINE TOUR No. 2— Giving 139 positions, comprising Palestine Toui 
No. 1, Travel Lessons on the Life of Jesus and Travel Lessons on the Old 
Testament (all duplicates omitted) with three books. 

PANAMA TOUR — Giving 36 positions, with explanatory notes.* 

PARIS EXPOSITION TOUR— Giving 36 positions. 

PERU TOUR— Giving 60 positions. 

PHILIPPINE TOUR— Giving 100 positions. 

PILGRIMAGE TO SEE THE HOLY FATHER— Giving 36 position with 
explanatory notes,* guide book by Rev. Father John Talbot 'mith, 
LL.D., 148 pages, cloth, and two Underwood patent maps. 

PORTUGAL TOUR— Giving 60 positions. 

PRESIDENT McKINLEY TOUR No. 5— Giving 60 positions, witr guide 
book, 183 pages, cloth. 
The same with real leather case, velvet-lined, inscription in silver. 

PRESIDENT McKINLEY TOUR No. 2— Giving 24 positions, positions select- 
ed from Tour No. 5. 

PRESIDENT ROOSEVELT TOUR— Giving 36 positions. 

ROME TOUR— Giving 46 positions (a part of Italy Tour. Positions 1 to 
46) — with guide book by D. J. Ellison, D.D., and James C. Egbert, Jr., 
Ph.D., 310 pages, cloth, and five Underwood patent maps. 

RUSSIA TOUR — Giving 100 positions, with guide book by M. S. Emery, 
216 pages, cloth, and ten Underwood patent maps. 

RUSSO-JAPANESE WAR— Giving 100 positions. 

SCOTLAND TOUR — Giving 84 positions, with explanatory notes.* 

SICILY TOUR— Giving 54 positions. 

*These explanatory notes are printed on the backs of the stereograph cards 



SPAIN TOUR — Giving 100 positions. 

ST. PIERRE AND MONT PELEE TOUR— Giving 18 positions, with fruide 
book by the celebrated traveler, George Kennan, and three Underwood 
maps. 

SWEDEN TOUR — Giving 100 positions, with explanatory notes * 

SWITZERLAND TOUR— Giving 100 positions, with guide book by M. S. 
Emery, 274 pages, cloth, and eleven Underwood patent maps. 

"TRAVEL LESSONS ON THE LIFE OF JESUS"— Giving 36 positions, with 
hand book, 230 pages, cloth, by Rev. Win. Byron Forbush, Ph.D., and 
four Underwood patent maps. 

''TRAVEL LESSONS ON THE OLD TESTAMENT"— Giving 51 positions, 
witli hand book, 211 pages, cloth, by Rev. Wm. Byron Forbush, Ph.D., 

and four Underwood patent maps. 

TRIP AROUND THE WORLD— Giving 72 positions, with explanatory 
notes,* guide book and map. 

UNITED STATES TOUR— Giving 100 positions, with explanatory notes* 
guide book and four Underwood patent maps. 

UNITED STATES TOUR No. 2— Giving 100 positions, positions all different 
from those in the above tour. 

UNITED STATES TOUR No. 2— Giving 211 positions, comprising U. S. 
Tour No.l and the special tours of Washington, Grand Canyon, Niagara 
Falls, Yellowstone and Yosemite (all duplicates omitted) with six 
books. 

WASHINGTON, D. C, TOUR— Giving 42 positions, with guide book by 
Rufus Rockwell Wilson, 178 pages, cloth, and four Underwood patent 
maps. 

WORLD'S FAIR — Louisiana Purchase Exposition Tour — Giving 55 positions 
with explanatory notes,* guide book and Underwood patent map. 

In China — 

BOXER UPRISING TOUR— Giving 26 positions, 43-68, of the China Tour, 
with guide book and three Underwood patent maps. 

HONG KONG TO CANTON TOUR— Giving 15 positions, 1-15 of the China 
Tour, with guide book and three Underwood patent maps. 

PEKIN TOUR— Giving 32 positions, 69-100 of the China Tour, with guide 
book and two Underwood patent maps. 

In Egypt — 

CAIRO AND THE PYRAMIDS TOUR— Giving 27 positions— (Positions 
1-27 of Egypt Tour), with explanatory notes.* t 

ELEPHANT SERIES — Giving 12 positions, hunting wild elephants, tame 
elephants at work, etc., with explanatory notes.* 

GETTYSBURG BATTLEFIELD TOUR— Giving 12 positions. 

GRAND CANYON OF ARIZONA TOUR— Giving 18 positions, with explana- 
tory notes * guide book and two Underwood patent maps. 

In Greece — 

ATHENS TOUR— Giving 27 positions, 1-27 of Greece Tour, with explana- 
tory notes *t 

HUNTING SCENES— Giving 30 positions. 

In India — 

BOMBAY TO CASHMERE TOUR— Giving 27 positions, 1-27 of India 
Tour, with explanatory notes.* f 

* These explanatory notes are printed on the backs of the stereograph cards, 
t The guide book for the complete tour is desirable. 



In Ireland — 

QUEENSTOWN, CORK AND DUBLIN TOUR— Giving 36 positions, 1-36 
of the Ireland Tour, with explanatory notes.* t 

NEW YORK CITY TOUR— Giving 30 positions. 

NIAGARA FALLS TOUR— Giving 18 positions, with explanatory notes * 
guide book and two Underwood patent maps. 

NIAGARA IN WINTER— Giving 12 positions. 

In Norway — 

HAP DANGER AND BERGEN TOUR— Giving 27 positions, 26-52 of 
Norway Tour, with explanatory notes.* t 

In Palestine — 

JERUSALEM TOUR— Giving 27 positions, 9-35 of the Palestine Tour, 
with explanatory notes * guide book and an Underwood patent map. 

RUBY MINING TOUR — Giving 9 positions, some of the positions taken 
from the Burma Tour, with explanatory notes.* 

In Russia — 

MOSCOW TOUR— Giving 27 positions, 47-73 of the Russia Tour, with 
guide book and three Underwood patent maps. 

ST. PETERSBURG TOUR— Giving 39 positions, 8-46 of the Russia Tour, 
with guide book and five Underwood patent maps. 

SAN FRANCISCO DISASTER SERIES— Giving 36 positions. 

SPANISH BULL FIGHT SERIES— Giving 12 positions. 

In Switzerland — 

BERNESE ALPS TOUR— Giving 27 positions, 17-36 and 47-53 of Switz- 
erland Tour, with guide book and three Underwood patent maps. 

ENGADINE TOUR— Giving 8 positions, 39-46 of Switzerland Tour, with 
guide book and four Underwood patent maps. 

LAKE LUCERNE TOUR— Giving 11 positions, 6-16 of the Switzerland 
Tour, with guide book and three Underwood patent maps. 

MONT BLANC TOUR— Giving 23 positions, 78-100 of the Switzerland 
Tour, with guide book and two Underwood patent maps. 

ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN TOUR— Giving 15 positions, 54-68 
of the Switzerland Tour, with guide book and two Underwood patent 
maps. 

YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK TOUR— Giving 30 positions, with 
explanatory notes,* guide book and an Underwood patent map. 

YOSEMITE VALLEY TOUR — Giving 24 positions, with guide book by 
Charles Q. Turner and an Underwood patent map. 

♦These explanatory notes are printed on the backs of the stereograph cards. 
t The guide book for the complete tour is desirable. 



COMMENTS BY 
AUTHORITIES 



"One look through the stereoscope at the photographs of 
an Alpine glacier, the bas-reliefs of an ancient Egyptian temple, 
or of the ruins of Pompeii, teaches more than hours spent in hear- 
ing or reading descriptions." — A. Kirchmann, Ph.D. (Director 
Psychological Dept.), University of Toronto, Canada. 

"The effects produced by the stereoscope are so incompar- 
ably superior to anything attainable by flat photography that I 
am glad to learn you are . . . using stereographs as an auxiliary in 
the methodical study of those numerous subjects in to which topog- 
raphy or configuration enters as an element." — William James, 
Ph.D. (Professor of Psychology), Harvard University, Cam- 
bridge, Mass. 

"The best confirmation I can give of my estimate of the 
value of Underwood & Underwood's stereoscopic views is con- 
tained in the order enclosed for a cabinet of Egypt, Palestine, 
India and Japan." — James Alexander Craig, Ph.D. (Professor 
of Semitic Languages and Literature, and Hellenistic Greek), 
University of Michigan. 

"I have been greatly pleased with Messrs. Underwood & 
Underwood's series of stereoscopic photographs of Egypt, and 
with the ingenious instrument for seeing them. I cannot conceive 
of anything better, either for educational purposes, or for preserv- 
ing a permanent memorial of the country and its inhabitants." 
— Archibald Henry Sayce, M.A., LLJ). (Fellow of Queens' 
College, Oxford, Professor of Assyriology), Oxford University, 
England. 

"A plain photograph does not put one into such close touch 
with distant lands. With these, one seems to be on the spot and 
to feel the sun and the wind." — Casper Rene Gregory, D.D. 
(Professor of Theology), University of Leipzig, Germany. 



306 90 



THE TRAVEL LESSONS 

ON THE LIFE OF JESUS 

AND 

ON THE OLD TESTAMENT 

Rev. William Byron Forbush, Ph.D., author of "The Boy 
Problem," has worked out by actual experience with his 
famous Bible class these original, inspiring Bible Study 
courses. 

11 The Travel Lessons on the Life of Jesus," giving 36 stand- 
points, with a complete handbook, 204 pages, in cloth, 3 patent 
maps and case. 

"The Travel Lessons on the Old Testament," divided into 
4 courses, giving 51 standpoints in all, complete handbook, 211 
pages, 5 patent maps and case. 
Separate courses as follows: 

Course I. — The Patriarchs of Israel, 13 places. 

" II. — The Founders of the Kingdom, 15 places. 
" III. — The Early Kings and Prophets, 14 places. 
" IV. — The Later Kings and Prophets, 9 places. 

Both Old and New Testament courses are arranged to accom- 
pany International, Blakeslee's, Davis', Murray's and all Sun- 
day-School and personal Bible Study courses, or may be used 
independently. They solve these problems: Attendance, order, 
interest in Bible, real religious education. They introduce an 
entirely new method and apparatus which makes an addition of 
permanent and constant value to the equipment for Bible study 
classes. 

The Plan of these Travel Lessons is to teach Biblical his- 
tory while the student is in the very presence of the places 
in Palestine where that history was enacted. 



Special Testimony from Sunday-School 
Workers 



More than Delighted with the Lessons 

"I have received from Underwood & Underwood your 'Travel Lesson3 
on the Life of Jesus/ and I want to say that your book is one of the most 
suggestive I have ever seen, full of helpful thoughts and methods of teaching. 

"The stereographs are, of course, the very best, coming from that firm. I 
am more than delighted with the Lessons, and the working out of your plan 
and have already noticed them in my Quarterly, and will do so in my next 
volume of Select Notes." F. N. Peloubet, D.D. (Author of "Select Notes" 
for International Sunday-School Lessons). 



Make Our Lord's Life More Vivid than Would 
Otherwise be Possible 
"I have introduced the stereoscopic work into my Sunday-School. In 
this way i ieel quite confident that 1 can secure two things: First, more 
intelligent work on the part of my teachers, since I use the stereoscope in 
teachers' meeting, and, second, more interest and intelligence on the part of 
my scholars, since on Sunday the stereographs go into classes where they 
illustrate admirably and make more vivid than would otherwise be possible 
the story of our Lord's life." A. F. Schauffler, D.D. (Secretary of the 
International Lesson Committee and veteran teacher of teachers). 

I Can Conceive of No Better Method 

"There can be no lasting teaching unless the scholar's own powers of 
realization are brought to bear upon the subject matter taught, and next 
to the actual seeing of the Holy Land 1 can conceive of no better method 
than that afforded by the stereograph for enabling the scholar to realize the 
setting of Gospel incidents and truths. By following Dr. Forbush's plans 
for teaching, the stereograph can be used in ordinary Sunday-School work." 
Rev. Carey Bonner (General Secretary, the British Sunday-School Union, 
London, Eng.). 

Spiritual Lessons Pressed Home Most Effectively 

"I have been using this system with a class of boys ranging in age from 
sixteen to twenty-two years, and find that it impresses upon their minds the 
geographical facts in connection with the Life of Christ in a most satisfactory 
manner. 

"It is very easy to interest the boys in the Lessons with the aid of this visual 
instruction, and when once their interest is gained, the spiritual lessons can 
be pressed home most effectively, I commend this method of teaching." 
F. E. Davis (Member Executive Committee C. E. Union, Brooklyn, New 
York). 

Placed Lessons Permanently on Curriculum 

"We have used your system of 'Travel Lessons' with success in our 
Sunday-School, and have placed them permanently on our curriculum. 

"As chairman of the Sunday-School Commission of the Diocese of Chicago, 
I have also recommended your 'Travel Lessons' for general use in the 
diocese at large." Charles Scadding (Rector of Emmanuel Church, La 
Grange, Ind.). 

Perfect Satisfaction 

44 1 consider the Lessons with the stereoscopic views and special maps the 
most valuable device for the religious education of the young I have ever 
seen. Out of my experience have come two conclusions. First, that the 
provision which most churches make for the religious training of the chil- 
dren is miserably incommensurate to the need. My own Church has been 
paying just seven times as much for the support of its choir as for the support 
of its Sunday-School. I think the statement of the difference is a sufficient 
comment. 

"My second conclusion is that your Travel Lessons, with the stereoscope, 
constitute the longest step taken in the direction of more intelligent educa- 
tional equipment for the Sunday-School, for my own experience has demon- 
strated that these Lessons rightly taught increase the attendance, intensify 
the interest and strengthen the spiritual activity of the young." Andrew 
Gillies, D.D. (Pastor St. Andrew's Church, 102 West Seventy-sixth 
Street, New York). 

Making Permanent Religious Impressions 

44 My experiment in teaching the Last Week of Christ's Life to a group 
of ten boys, with the aid of stereoscopes and stereographs, has resulted 
more satisfactorily than even my rather sanguine expectations anticipated. 
A sense of reality was produced, which penetrated beyond the mere historical 
events to the hidden principles they embody. In maintaining interest 
and in making indirect but permanent religious impressions, I think the 
method is more satisfactory than anything I have yet been able to discover. 
Dr. Forbush has placed the Sunday-School world under great obligations in 
working out so carefully his material for both Old and New Testament 
studies." Alfred H. Barr (Pastor Jefferson Avenue Presbyterian Church, 
Detroit). 

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NITED STATES TOUR, MAP NO. 1, POSITIONS 14-75, 79-89 




UNITED STATES TOUR, 




EXPLANATIONS OF MAP SYSTEM, 



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EXPLANATIONS OF MAP SYSTEM. 



